The wines of Chile are a magnificent value for anyone who desires a quality wine without spending a small fortune. I was reminded of that important fact during a recent virtual seminar. “Today’s Chile: Right Place, Right Time, Right Wines” was led by Master Sommeliers Evan Goldstein, Rebecca Fineman, and Vincent Morrow along with Julio Alonso, Wines of Chile US Executive Director. Each shared their unbridled excitement for Chilean wines with three words: reinvention, renewal and renaissance.
Happening now in Chile is a reinvention of classic wine styles within classic terroirs and regions. Familiar, traditional blends stand shoulder to shoulder with those that are eclectic and modern. There’s a renewal of old vines making an impact and “old regions are rediscovered as new stars.” Finally, a renaissance is occurring in Chile. A re-evaluation of the map and an appreciation of “new wave of winemaking talents who aren’t so much worried about serving specific markets as they are in producing wines that they enjoy drinking themselves” are in place.
There are many intriguing Chilean wines from which to choose. The following selections were sent as samples.
You’re a white wine lover? Thriving in Chile are Sauvignon Blanc (11.2% of all plantings and their #1 white variety) and Chardonnay (8.2% of all plantings and #2 white variety). That’s not all. Under the winelovers’ radar are Muscat, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris, Riesling and Albarino. “New” regions for planting white varieties include San Antonio Leyda/Quebrada Seca and Casablanca. We can also find white wines from Atacama (Huasco) and Coquimbo (Limari and Elqui) in the far north, Bio-Bio, Osamo (Lago Ranco), and Chiloe in the far south, and Aconcagua Costa (Zapallar) and Colchagua Costa (Lolol) in the far west.
2019 Leyda Single Vineyard Garuma Sauvignon Blanc ($18) is an elegant cool climate wine boasting snappy acidity, fragrant aromatics and notes of herbs, grapefruit and juicy citrus.
2019 Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is from organic vineyards in Casablanca Valley, close to the Pacific Ocean. Aromas of petrol, salinity, ocean breeze, freshly squeezed grapefruit, yellow florals, hint of herbs and fresh, clean flavors of snappy citrus, green apples, peach flesh, and white pepper were lifted with bright acidity.
Pinot Noir flourishes in Chile after having been brought from France in 1879. Now there is more plant material in the way of Dijon clones and more than half of all Pinot Noir vines in Chile are less than 20 years old. “Better locations” where this cool climate variety can be found include Casablanca, San Antonio (Leyda), Elqui/Limari, Osorno (Ranco), Coastal (Colchagua and Aconcagua).
2016 Amayna Pinot Noir ($28) is 100% Pinot Noir from a high elevation vineyard in Maipo. Just lovely, I found bright aromatics, a tart, fruit forward profile and subtle notes of spice and earth that expressed the perfect amount of ripeness.
2017 Ventisquero Grey Single Block Pinot Noir ($20) is from grapes that thrive in the Leyda Valley. This wine burst with plenty of blueberries, blackberries, dark plums and raspberries on the nose and palate. Aged in French oak for 12 months, I discovered bright, delicious acidity and soft tannins with each sip.
2018 Veramonte Pinot Noir ($10) from Casablanca Valley offered aromas of earth, red berries, savory herbs and hint of mint. On the palate, soft tannins and moderate acidity surrounded notes of smoke, spice, red fruit and just-picked berries.
For decades the Carmenère grape was thought to be Merlot, since it was presumed that Carmenère was extinct. However, in 1994, experts realized that the variety was in fact Carmenère, not Merlot, and the rest is history… Its “old” style (“rich, opulent, overdone and often overoaked or unripe, lean/mean/green and stratifyingly polarizing”) has been replaced by a new style. We can now experience a Carmenère that offers herbal notes and complexity, especially when grown on warmer climate sites with “moderating influences such as a longer growing season for freshness and varietal character.” Forward thinkers consider planting “on hillsides with thin soils. The presence of granite is a plus.”
Each sip of 100% Merlot was balanced and soft in 2017 Santa Ema Reserva Merlot ($15) aged in both American and French oak. On the nose and palate, I found intense notes of cocoa, spice, smoke, red currants and blackberries lifted with vibrant acidity and integrated tannins.
2018 Veramonte Carmenère Reserva ($19) is made from organic grapes cultivated in Colchagua Valley and aged for 8 months in French oak barrels. On the nose, notes of vanilla, red fruit, berry compote, baking spice, cinnamon, and nutmeg were exceptional. The palate offered flavors of blackberry compote, tobacco, earl grey tea, rhubarb pie as well as moderate acidity and soft tannic structure.
2017 Ventisquero Grey Single Block Carmenère ($22) is of grapes from a single block in the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, I found a beautiful wine that oozed earth and minerality. Blackberry, dark plum, and tobacco aromas led to flavors of more dark fruit, sweet oak and vanilla with lovely acidity and bold tannins.
Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile is “still king and getting better” with “renewed energy and emphasis” on the variety. Production is at 15% of the world’s plantings, #2 after France. The area of Alto Maipo reigns and other outstanding wines include those from grapes cultivated in Cachapoal, Colchagua and Curico. Worth finding are Cabernet Sauvignon that present less new oak influence and power thanks to minimal intervention and skilled blending.
From the Maipo Valley is 2017 Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Syrah and Cabernet Franc along with scant amounts Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. This classic Chilean Cabernet spent 16 months in French oak. Polished from beginning to end, I discovered concentrated aromas and flavors of blackberries, currants, lush cherries, earth and smoke on a foundation of firm tannic structure.
2014 Ventisquero Grey Single Block Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) is an elegant, classic Chilean Cabernet from grapes grown in the Trinidad Vineyard located in the coastal Maipo Valley. Refreshing aromas of herbs were a lovely entry that opened the door to flavors of berries, plums, and herbs. Framed with strong, ripe tannins and vibrant acidity, this wine was luscious.
All panelists agreed that many of Chile’s most interesting wines are blends. Winemakers continue to produce the “old classic” blends with Carignan and/or Pais and this traditional style is dominant in Maule, Bio-Bio and Itata. The “Mediterranean” style blends varieties of the Rhone Valley, Southwest France and Italy. An “avant-garde” style is a blend of all.
2013 Odfjell Aliara ($37) is a blend of Carignan, Syrah and Malbec from Maule, Carico and Maipo Valleys. Intense aromas and rich flavors of earth, hazelnuts, figs, red and purple fruit, herbs, tobacco, leather and tar were surrounded with moderate acidity and velvet like tannins.
2017 Sideral Red Blend ($25) from Cachapoal in the Andes Valley was an elegant, restrained wine of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and lesser amounts of Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Carmenère. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels, generous notes of ripe red fruit and cedar on the nose led to a fruit forward palate with brilliant acidity and integrated tannins.
2017 Ventisquero Grey GCM, Single Block Red Blend ($20) is a food friendly blend of Garnacha, Carinena and Mataro grapes grown in the Apalta Vineyard in the Colchagua Valley. Enticing aromas of flint, blackberries and ripe raspberries and notes of wet earth, dried flowers, vanilla and minerality on the palate were notable. Aged in French oak for 6 months, this well-balanced wine boasted firm tannins and just-right acidity.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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