“There are vineyards in Humboldt County? I thought only pot farms were there.” So stated a friend when I mentioned that I was going to participate in a virtual tasting of wines from Joseph Jewell that has a winery and tasting room in Forestville, California. Truth be told, I was curious to explore their wines and learn more about Humboldt County where a good portion of their Pinot Noir grapes are cultivated.
Led by Adrian Jewell Manspeaker, Owner and Winemaker at Joseph Jewell Wines, and Chappy Cottrell, Marketing Manager, our group of journalists and industry folk got a quick snapshot of the region and philosophy of those at the winery. “The idea is to make wine to enjoy with friends,” stated Manspeaker who grew up in this northern coast area of California. “I want people to get good value from these wines.” They will. Each of the wines tasted (sent as samples) received 93 points or more from Wine Enthusiast. (Please check out their website here.)
The Ryan Vineyard – Photo Credit: Joseph Jewell Wines
After studying winemaking and viticulture at UC Davis’ extension program then business management, Manspeaker put his knowledge to the test with hands on experience at Donatiello for the 2007 crush and at Peay Vineyards for the 2008 harvest. Around this time, he met Micah Joseph Wirth. Together they became winemaking partners under the Joseph Jewell name.
Adrian Manspeaker is “passionate about making wines after being inspired by those from Gary Farrell in the early 2000s.” And Humboldt County? “It’s majestic and breathtaking,” shared Chappy Cattell. “Each region in California has a different style because of its soil and climate.” In Humboldt County, a moderate temperature, fair amount of rain, fog and proximity to the coast are of prime importance… and Pinot Noir thrives. In fact, “there are not many grapes here, so Humboldt County is a niche. 70% of our grapes are from the Russian River Valley,” he explained.
Photo Credit: Joseph Jewell Wines
Sonoma and Humboldt County vineyard sites with unique soil profiles and weather conditions are selected. “As part of our commitment to the future, we seek out growers who implement sustainable farming practices. Our goal is a finished wine that celebrates the singularity of the vineyard from which it came—the optimal expression of place captured vintage after vintage,” stated Adrian Manspeaker.
In Humboldt County, the Ryan Vineyard is found above the eastern branch of the Eel River. Soil lacks nutrients and vines are forced to struggle in order to deliver low yields of smaller grapes with small clusters boasting intensity of flavor. The Alderpoint Vineyard was planted in 1992 and since 2013 has been an important location for Joseph Jewell wines – it’s 500 feet above the middle fork of the Eel River and of shale-like soils. Low yield, too, are present at Alderpoint and the cooling influence of the river helps each wine develop distinctive flavors and textures. Elk Prairie Vineyard, at 1200 feet above sea level, is placed on a ridge top with steep hillside slopes. Fruit from this cool climate location is picked last and exudes vibrant acidity, delicate fruit, spice and minerality.
What did we taste?
2018 Eel River Pinot Noir ($36) is a blend of grapes from several vineyards spread out along the Eel River. Adrian Manspeaker explained that the Ryan vineyard offers minerality and the Alderpoint, Elk Prairie and Fruitland Ridge vineyards contribute vibrant notes of red fruit. Somewhat lighter in structure than the other wines tasted, yet offering plenty of body, I discovered layers upon layers of fruit with each sip. Manspeaker suggested that this wine is “a true expression of Humboldt County.” Intense aromas of smoke, tobacco, green tea, earth and ripe red fruit wafted from the glass. The palate, framed with precise acidity and firm tannins, oozed notes of blackberries, blueberries, cherries, dried oranges, and raspberry jam with undertones of minerality, spice, vanilla, smoke, and earth.
Herbaceous and mint notes are underlying factors in wines from Humboldt County and the 2018 Alderpoint Vineyard Pinot Noir ($39) proved it. Not unlike Pinots from the Cotes d’Or in Burgundy, this beauty was fresh, balanced and absolutely delicious. On the nose and palate, I discovered elements of black cherries, snappy red currants, raspberry, mint leaves, warm baking spices, herbs and minerality framed with bright acidity and soft tannic structure.
2018 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir ($39) was a big and bold red wine… yet it had a soft side, too. Grapes were 100% destemmed leading to a wine with glorious, natural tannins. I found moderately intense aromas of spice, pepper, dark, rich red fruit and violets. Balanced with structure, bright acidity and just-right tannins, flavors of figs, black cherries, baking spice, herbs and tobacco were lush and sophisticated.
Humboldt County is an area to keep on the radar for so much more than artisan cheeses, chocolates, craft brews, timber… or cannabis. Try the wines from Joseph Jewell Wines and explore a bit of this intriguing region, yet another hidden gem in the Golden State.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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Please note: This event was hosted by Grand Reserve Rewards, the credit card for wine enthusiasts, and Joseph Jewell Wines is a member winery. For upcoming events hosted by Grand Reserve Rewards, click rewards.com/events.
