It’s always a pleasure to view center stage when the spotlight shines on women in the wine industry. From sommeliers to winemakers to winery owners and beyond, the efforts and expertise of women from around the globe have elevated the industry and expanded choices for wine aficionados. Recently, I participated in a virtual discussion starring four savvy women who represent a new and powerful generation at their family-owned wineries.
The lively discussion included moderator Dr. Laura Catena of Bodegas Catena Zapata & Bodegas CARO in Mendoza, Argentina, Anne Trimbach of Trimbach in Alsace, France, Laure Colombo of Vins Jean-Luc Colombo in Cornas, Rhone Valley, France and Alessia Collauto Travaglini of Travaglini in Gattinara, Piemonte, Italy. As a group of writers sipped wine from each estate and heard the panelists’ stories, I began to understand how each woman meets challenges and opportunities, maintains work/life balance, and seeks new and innovative ideas to support their family winery especially during this year’s life-changing environment. Following are highlights from our conversation and brief descriptions of the wines tasted.
Dr. Laura Catena: Bodegas Catena Zapata & Bodegas CARO
Laura is a proud member of a fourth generation of Argentine vintners. Born in Mendoza, Argentina, her great grandfather founded Catena Winery in 1902 after emigrating from Italy. The route to her current positions as proprietor of Bodegas CARA and managing director of Bodega Catena Zapata was not a straight path, however. Laura has a degree from Harvard University (magna cum laude, by the way) and a medical degree from Stanford University. In 1995, she joined her father, Nicolas Catena Zapata, at the winery as winemaker. If her current positions aren’t enough, Laura also practices emergency medicine in San Francisco and has written two books. She shared that among her many passion projects is a quest to learn more about the ageability of wine and the vineyard soil microbiome.
Laura Catena – Photo Credit: Bodegas CARO
Together, our group tasted CARO ($65), a wine that isn’t produced every year – only when the vintage allows. It’s a collaboration between two renowned families, the Catena family and Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) of Bordeaux fame. The Catena family has vast knowledge of the high-altitude terroir of the Mendoza region and exhibits an uncanny ability to find the best vineyards. Likewise, those at Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) share their well-honed skills in growing, vinifying and ageing premium Cabernet Sauvignon along with mastering the process of blending different varieties. Cue CARO, a rich and flavorful wine with as much Argentine identity as Bordeaux style. In fact, the name CARO signifies Catena “CA” and Rothschild “RO”.) A lush blend of Malbec and Cabernet, I found mesmerizing notes of violets, raspberries, cloves and dark chocolate on both nose and palate. Balanced with vibrant acidity and sturdy tannins, the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak and is a savory pairing with a juicy rib eye steak.
Anne Trimbach: Trimbach
Anne is oldest member of the 13th generation of a family producing wine in Alsace, France since 1626. As a young girl, she knew that her destiny was to work at the winery, although her great uncle was skeptical about her goal. “One day you’ll want to have babies,” he said. “You’re a woman. How will you manage this?” Anne felt that she “had to prove I was able to” and now, she’s “the first woman to be in front of people.” Armed with an economics degree, a master’s degree and an internship with a beverage distributor, Anne returned to Alsace in 2008 when she assumed the positions as export manager and as Trimbach ambassador. She’s also responsible for building the estate’s beautiful website and social media presence that offer a wealth of information through print, photographs and videos.
Anne Trimbach – Photo Credit: Trimbach
Together, we tasted Trimbach Reserve Riesling 2017 ($35), a wine that burst with minerality, freshness and vibrant acidity. Anne explained that 2017 was a classic vintage, but due to climate change, this description has changed. The wine we enjoyed was produced in the traditional house style (dry) and offered aromas and flavors of key lime, stone fruit, petrol and flint. Bursting with minerality which Anne describes as a “sensation of steely earthiness,” this rich, ripe wine is a fabulous complement to oysters, shellfish, sushi, white meats in white wine sauces, pork dishes and spicy Asian fare.
Laure Colombo: Vins Jean-Luc Colombo
Laure is a second-generation family member who grew up in Cornas, France, a small village in the “middle of nowhere” in the southern Rhone Valley. She shared that her youthful desire was to “escape the village and live in big cities.” To that end, she received a viticulture degree from Bordeaux University, a winemaking degree from Montpellier and a business degree from the University of Lille. Along the way, Laure gained plenty of work experience in India, New Zealand and Chateau Haut-Brion, yet during that time she realized that her roots grow deep in Cornas. In 2010, Laure returned to her family’s winery “because it’s in my blood.” Although her father is still “in charge,” Laure shared that her role alongside her parents at the winery continues to grow.
Laure Colombo – Photo Credit: Vins Jean-Luc Colombo
The Jean-Luc Columbo Saint-Peray AOC “La Belle de Mai” 2018 ($30) is of 60% Roussanne and 40% Marsanne cultivated in a single vineyard in St. Peray, a small village next to Cornas, and co-planted and fermented together. Fresh, intense aromas of florals, juicy grapefruit and lush pears led to rich and expressive flavors of dried apricot, peach flesh, citrus, and subtle notes of vanilla lifted with bright acidity and a round, velvet-like mouthfeel.
Alessia Collauto Travaglini: Travaglini
Alessia Travaglini, fifth generation member of the Travaglini family, explained that she “wanted to work in the winery since I was a little girl, although my dream job was to be a truck driver!” Alessia was quick to remark that her parents’ passion for wines has been successfully transferred to her and her sister – Alessia “used to follow my mother and father through the winery and play in the vineyards.” Holding a degree in Economics and Business Management and a sommelier certificate, Alessia reflects her family’s passion and curiosity for all things wine. Currently, her mother, Cinzia, runs the estate along with her husband Massimo Collauto, chief winemaker. Alessia and sister Carolina are poised to run the estate that produces “one of Italy’s most recognizable wines and the #1 selling Gattinara in the world.”
Carolina, Alessia, Massimo and Cinzia – Photo Credit: Travaglini
Of 100% Nebbiolo, our group tasted Travaglini Gattinara DOCG 2016 ($32), the winery’s flagship wine. The tiny appellation of Gattinara DOCG produces grapes boasting distinctive flavors, bright acidity and gripping tannic structure. The wine offered aromas of dark red and black fruits, vanilla, oak, black cherry, mocha, earth and espresso. On the palate, balanced with plenty of body, I noted vibrant acidity, firm tannins and fruit forward accents. Aged for three years with two years in Slavonian oak barrels, Alessia shared that “the complexity of this wine comes from the rocks… it tastes delicate on the palate.” Of note is the unique bottle shape, designed to catch the sediment during decanting and features a curve that fits in the palm of the hand. Thanks to consistent accolades, the family decided to keep the bottle shape design as their symbol for Gattinara.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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