Unmistakably Italian: Wines from Tenuta Sant’Antonio in Valpolicella

When the weather is cool and crisp, and savory aromas from Nonna’s kitchen are wafting throughout the house, it’s time to reach for a cozy sweater and a lush, elegant wine from Italy. But not any wine. Consider a seductive pour of wine from Valpolicella in the province of Verona in northeastern Italy’s Veneto region. Although there are a number of premium producers in the region, three special wines (sent as samples) from Tenuta Sant’Antonio satisfied my cravings for something magnificent.

Valpolicella in Veneto

The vineyards of Valpolicella lie in a swath north of Verona on slopes of limestone and granite. Corvina, the dominant grape, presents notes of herbs and black fruit while other grapes include Corvinone, Rondinella and Molinara, among others.

A variety of wine styles are produced in the area. Basic Valpolicella is light and fruity and best enjoyed young. Valpolicella Classico are from vineyards in the original Valpolicella area and Valpolicella Classico Superiore are higher quality wines that must be aged at least a year before release. Valpolicella Ripasso, intensely flavored with texture and complexity, is produced using the ripasso method whereby the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in the presence of pressed Amarone skins.

Intense and dense Amarone is from very ripe grapes and is produced using the appassimento method – the grapes are left hanging on the vine or laid on bamboo mats for three to four months in order to dry. The grapes shrivel, resulting in concentrated sugars and flavors, and then are crushed and fermented. High alcohol and full bodied, an opulent Amarone is exceptional.

Rich and sweet, Recioto della Valpolicella is, like Amarone, made from the ripest grapes which have been put in special drying rooms to raisinate so that sugars are concentrated. However, unlike Amarone, fermentation is halted before sugars turn to alcohol. The result is a sweet wine with lower alcohol content that’s delightful with blue cheese and ripe Taleggio.

Tenuta Sant’Antonio

Although most of the historic producers of Valpolicella are found on the western side of the denomination, Tenuta Sant’Antonio is in the eastern zone where new and innovative wineries are established. Soils in this area are rife with calcium carbonate, a factor in giving wines a higher acidity and bolder cherry notes.

Photo Credit: Tenuta Sant’Antonio

The winery has been producing Valpolicella wine since 1995 and is run by the four Castagnedi brothers, Armando, Tiziano, Paolo and Massimo. Their passion for wines from Valpolicella stems from their father Antonio who owned vineyards at San Zeno di Colognola ai Colli. In 1989, they purchased property in the Monti Garbi and now, the estate has more than 100 farmed hectares and a state-of-the art ageing facility.

Tenuta Sant’Antonio lies along the hills of the Illasi and Mezzane valleys where a mild climate and influences from Lake Garda are prevalent. Cultivated throughout their estate are Corvinone, Corvina, Rondinella, Garganega, Trebbiano di Soave and Chardonnay. Quality is their mission and natural production of wines is paramount. For more details about the property, winemaking techniques and wines from Tenuta Sant’Antonio please click here.

My entry to the wines of Tenuta Sant’Antonio was 2018 “Nanfrè” Valpolicella DOC ($15), a young and fresh example that was produced without dried grapes or oak in the winemaking process. In fact, the winery made the decision to stop producing the Nanfrè as a Valpolicella Superiore wine so that the flavor profile would be more fruit forward and the alcohol levels would be lower. In this wine, I found bright aromas of spice, vanilla, oregano, mint and green tea as well as flavors of black cherries, ripe red fruits and oregano. Moderate acidity and soft tannins framed this easy drinking selection that, served slightly chilled, was perfect with crabcakes and fresh shrimp.

Each sip of 2017 Monti Garbi Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC ($22) was flavorful and satisfying. Well balanced with lip smacking acidity, the ripasso method of production added body and layers of complexity… and elegance. Vibrant aromas and savory flavors of red fruit, cherries, oak and spice were mesmerizing yet energizing. Enjoy a glass or two with grilled meats, Italian cheeses and your favorite pasta dish.

The Castagnedi brothers dedicate their signature Amarone to their father, Antonio. 2015 Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Antonio Castagnedi” Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG ($47) is of premium grapes selected specifically for this wine and cultivated in a variety of vineyards. After picking, the grapes were brought to the winery’s drying room for the appassimento process that lasted at least 3 months. Once fermented and aged in new oak barrels, the Amarone became powerful, fruit forward and incredibly fresh. The 2015 was incredible, yet has ageing potential for up to ten more years (if you can wait that long).

On the nose, I found ripe red fruit, blackberries, smoke, anise, cocoa, Italian spices and black pepper. The full bodied, sophisticated palate offered firm tannins and moderate acidity that surrounded lush notes of violets, caramel, vanilla, baking spice, licorice and espresso. Beautiful.