Sustainability. Clearly, this is a buzzword often heard when discussing the production of wine. Consumers are regularly seeking wines produced by those who are careful stewards of our environment. They’re looking for winemakers and winery teams who are taking decisive steps towards energy and water conservation, composting, canopy management, minimal use of chemicals, social responsibility within the community and so much more. Recently, I met (virtually, of course) members of the Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program (WASP) at an online conversation and tasting. Led by João Barroso, WASP’s Coordinator, and Evan Goldstein, MS, the conversation had as its focus the steps towards making sustainability in Alentejo the core of the program’s business model in producing exceptional wines. Savvy wine lovers, read on.
The Region of Alentejo
Alentejo covers much of the southern half of Portugal (about 1/3 the country’s size) and only about 5% of the land is covered with vines. The region is divided into three administrative districts: Beja, Evora, and Portalegre, all comprise the Vinho Regional Alentejano (PGI). Considering that the country of Portugal is about the size of Indiana or Maine, Alentejo isn’t vast by American standards…it’s approximately the size of Massachusetts.
Northern Alentejo, around the city of Portalegre and towards Spain, is mountainous and cooler than other parts of the region. Wide rolling terrain and a hot climate are found in the central portion of the region and the southern area, near the coast, offers plenty of sun for its grapes to ripen. Soils vary greatly in the region; schist, granite, limestone, and pink marble may be atop a sub-layer of water-retaining clay. From the north to the south and the east to the west, travelers will note olive groves and cork forests, sunflowers, wheat, corn, lavender fields, livestock…and wide-open spaces. Less than 5% of the Portuguese people reside in Alentejo.
Photo Credit: Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Project
Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program (WASP)
WASP is a multi-award-winning, voluntary membership program with the goal to “reduce costs and increase economic viability through a proactive approach to environmental pressures and social concerns. Using data from the International Wine Organization and adopting the best from sustainability programs in California and Chile, WASP was developed with input from the University of Evora, the Alentejo Winegrowers Technical Association, as well as individual Alentejo grape growers and wineries.” WASP began with 96 members at the end of 2015 and has grown to 396 members (out of 1800 grape growers and 260 wineries). In fact, the members represent 45% of Alentejo’s vineyard area and according to many, are “the main players” in the region.
Photo Credit: Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Project
As you may expect, WASP is setting the bar high for others and appears to be the “paradigm for the 21st century.” What are some of their initiatives and successes? Among the many are:
Using compost made from stalks, grape seeds, olive leaves, olive pomace and pruning to create a more active soil microbiome
Using sheep for weed control and manure
Encouraging cover crops for water retention and to prevent erosion.
Using sprayers with “drift recover” technology to capture and recycle spray drift-reducing chemical use up to 50%
Reducing water consumption by using “dry” cleaning equipment
Encouraging renewable energy and water conservation through free training
Installing water meters to lower water consumption and monitoring water use
Reducing energy use through insulation of pipes, tanks, wall and roofs in the wineries
Promoting use of greener products such as corks and barrels from forests certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)
Integrating the winery in the community by assisting school programs, donations to charity events, hosting “open house” days for cellar visits, and helping to train employees for sustainability at home… Wines of Alentejo Sustainability Program (WASP)
Enticed? I strongly encourage you to visit the website here for more information. It’s no surprise that after only five years of the WASP model program, Alentejo is one of the world’s most progressive wine regions with regards to sustainability.
Wines of Alentejo
During the virtual chat we had a chance to taste wines, sent as samples, and discover how sustainability efforts in Alentejo clearly affect what’s in the glass.
Our first wine was 2018 Esporão Colheita Branco of native grapes Antão Vaz, Viosinho, Alvarinho and others cultivated in Reguengos. Today, there are 1121 acres at Herdade, of which 200 acres are organic since 1988, and 383 non-estate acres. In fact, the pruning process lasts four months… even with 120 workers! In the glass, I found a crisp yet creamy wine with notes of macadamia nuts, butter and citrus leading to a snappy finish.
WASP Insight: “Herdade do Esporão has developed a testing nursery to identify which indigenous grape varieties are best adapted to a changing climate.”
Next, our group tasted four red wines. We began with 2018 Herdade de São Miguel Sul Tinto of Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira and Cabernet from Casa Relvas, a large family winery that is “young, minimalist and modern.” Vineyards located in Redondo were purchased in 1997 and the first vintage was in 2003. Such a delectable treat, intense aromas included notes of vanilla, cola, black cherries, spice and oak. The juicy, fruit forward palate was lifted by bright acidity and soft tannins. Fresh and flavorful, this wine was stainless steel fermented and underwent malolactic fermentation with staves. 10% of the juice was then aged for six months in 400 liter French oak barrels.
WASP Insight: “Casa Relvas is one of Portugal’s most sustainably progressive wineries. This includes using sheep to control weeds during the vegetative rest period of the vineyard, reducing the need for hydrocarbon-dependent herbicides.”
From Evora (Arraiolos) was 2017 Coelheiros Tinto of Alicante Bouschet and Aragonez produced by Herdade de Coelheiros. The family estate dates from 1467 when the estate was offered as a dowry to Dom Ruy de Sousa, a well-known figure in the history of Portugal thanks to his efforts to devise the Treaty of Tordesillas. On the nose, I discovered elements of baking spice, cherries, ripe raspberries, and a touch of plum. The ripe, round palate offered flavors of ripe dark fruit and white pepper framed with firm tannins and bright acidity. This luscious selection was fermented in stainless steel, then aged for 12 months in oak barrels.
WASP Insight: “Herdade de Coelheiros uses bat shelters to encourage bats to make their home there and in the heavy growth of grass and weeds between vines – another natural approach to tackling unwanted insects in the vineyard.”
CARMIM, a cooperative created in 1971 with 60 winemaking associates, has expanded to include 850 associates, 8900 acres and 70 wines in its portfolio. From Reguengos, 2014 Reguengos Garrafeira dos Sócios is a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira. Aromas of dark fruit compote, mint, spice, earth and moss were mesmerizing. On the round, balanced palate, I noted flavors of spice along with ripe red and black fruit surrounded with food friendly acidity and soft, yet firm tannic structure. The finish was long and savory… This memorable wine was aged in used French oak for 9 months, followed by 3-6 months in the bottle prior to release.
WASP Insight: “CARMIM composts all organic waste from the winemaking process into fertilizer. New additions at the winery include installation of rooftop solar panels that take advantage of Alentejo’s abundant solar energy.”
Herdade dos Grous 2018 Tinto is of Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Aragonez. Located in Albernoa, 11 miles from Beja, the estate consists of more than 1700 acres, including 240 acres of an artificial lake, vineyards and olive groves. Currently, the inclusion of livestock and a variety of crops helps make the estate self-sustaining. Each sip of this lush blend offered a balanced fruit-forward expression of the varieties. On the nose, I found spice, earth, hint of oak, black cherries, blackberries and minerality. The palate burst with notes of red and black fruit, eucalyptus, cola and juicy cherries. The 2018 Tinto was aged for 9 months in a 5000-liter French oak vat, then 18 months in the bottle before release.
WASP Insight: “Herdade dos Grous has reduced bottle weight across all their wines.”
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more Grape Experiences delivered directly to you, click here.
stevenswineandfoodblog