An Impressive New York Treasure: the Finger Lakes Wine Region

The state of New York is home to fascinating treasures and I have fond memories of one: the Finger Lakes wine region. Having attended a wine media conference and explored the area in the summer of 2015, I was impressed with the fresh and vibrant wines, the genuine people and the small-town vibe.

Wherever I swirled and sipped, winemakers, winery owners and others demonstrated an honest appreciation for their colleagues’ talents, personalities and wines. Winemakers were willing to assist others with techniques and owners were more than ready to help when called upon. Everyone I met understood that by working together, more will be achieved and that a collegial atmosphere is critical in order to gain national and international recognition for this wine region. In fact, Wine Enthusiast named the Finger Lakes as their 2014 Wine Region of the Year, an accolade well deserved.

This month, the Wine Pairing Weekend (#WinePW) folks are focusing their palates and pens on wines of the Finger Lakes. Everyone has swirled, sipped and savored a variety of wines sent to us as samples, then written about their discoveries. See below for the list of articles by my colleagues.

The Finger Lakes

About 10,000 years ago, glacier activity carved out 11 long, narrow lakes, now known as the Finger Lakes, in central New York. “These large and deep fresh water lakes and soil deposits surrounding them are the glaciers’ gifts to modern winemakers.” (Finger Lakes Wine Alliance). In the winter, cold air drains naturally from the sloping vineyards to the lakes and in spring, the cool air “delays the start of the growing season so that the tender shoots aren’t injured by lake frosts.” During the autumn, the lake effect helps deter early frost and extends the growing season.

Fast forward to the early 19^th century when grape-growing and farming were prevalent. However, it wasn’t until 1962, when Dr. Konstantin Frank moved to the area from Ukraine and opened Vinifera Wine Cellars, that the “vinifera revolution” ensued. Dr. Frank tested his hypothesis that the lack of appropriate rootstock, not the cool climate, deterred vinifera grapes Riesling and Cabernet Franc grapes from thriving. Charles Fournier, a French champagne producer, agreed and together, the team changed the trajectory of winemaking in the Finger Lakes.

At this time, there are 7 wineries on Canandaigua Lake, 25 on Cayuga Lake, 19 on Keuka Lake and 61 on Seneca Lake. The Finger Lakes American Viticultural Area (AVA) was established in October 1982 and is the largest wine-growing region in New York State. Two other AVAs within the region are the Cayuga Lake AVA and the Seneca Lake AVA.

The Finger Lakes is well known for their production of Gewurtztraminer and Riesling. In fact, there are over 200 Riesling brands and the average producer crafts 203 styles of Riesling per year. The dominant vinifera grapes include Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, although when I visited the area, I tasted incredible wines of Traminer, Sylvaner, Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon and more.

A Sampling of Wines and Food from the Finger Lakes

Although I wasn’t gazing upon the breathtaking views of one of the Finger Lakes, I still enjoyed the region’s wines one sunny evening on Lake Michigan with friends. Paired with appetizers were two selections from Lakewood Vineyards located on Seneca Lake in Watkins Glen, New York and owned by the Stamp Family who have been producing wine since 1988. Chris Stamp, the grandson of the farm’s founders, has been making wines for each of the winery’s 30 vintages and David Stamp, another grandson, oversees the grape growing and farming. Currently there are 85 acres under vine and some vines date from 1952.

The Lakewood Vineyards Dry Riesling 2018 ($15) was an unexpected pleasure. The dry Riesling burst with minerality and stone fruit on both nose and palate. The Lakewood Vineyards Riesling 2018 ($15) offered citrus notes and a moderate amount of sweetness that complemented the heat and spice of our homemade pimento cheese spread.

From Stony Lonesome Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake was Cabernet Franc Rosé 2019 ($16). Refreshing and dry, aromas and flavors of juicy watermelon, raspberries, strawberries, orange peel and rose petals were a crowd favorite.

Zugibe Vineyards, found on the northeastern shore of Seneca Lake, was founded in 2005. Four years later its doors were open to visitors who continue to be amazed by the stunning lake views. The wines produced are of 11 different varieties. Of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, their Dry Rosé 2019 ($16.99) offered aromas of lush red berries, tart cherries, cranberries, tastes of herbs and red fruit framed with moderate acidity and hint of tannins.

A true leader of the Finger Lakes wine industry, the owners and winemaker of Red Newt Cellars have helped pave the road to high recognition, quality winemaking and classic foods. The first wine tasted, 2013 Riesling Sawmill-North Block ($25) has only 8% abv and is a “Spatlese style Riesling,” according to the winemaker. With a touch of flint and granite, stone fruit, apricot and hint of citrus on the nose and palate, the sugar was balanced with acidity in this lush wine. The 2017 Circle Riesling ($15) delivered quality and value with each sip. Fruit forward with notes of clementine oranges, apricot, citrus and yellow florals, this is a wine to sip on its own or with a lovely tray of favorite appetizers.

The array of organic, authentic foods that I enjoyed in The Finger Lakes was inspiring. Served with style, bountiful trays of local cheeses, charcuterie, breads, jams and fruit were luscious. The cheeses melted in my mouth, the breads were fresh (and often warm) and the fruit was bright and juicy. One evening, dinner included grilled Finger Lakes Farms petite filet mignon and scallops with wilted baby kale lightly dressed with Piggery Bacon vinaigrette and Cayuga blue and pickled red onion.

Is your mouth watering yet? The following day, luncheon included Bel Ceillo from the Muranda Cheese Company in Waterloo, homemade wine barrel smoked sausages and salami from Battistoni Brands in Buffalo and shortbread with fresh butter from Kriemhild Dairy Farms. At both food experiences, carefully chosen wines from the region were delicious pairings. Served with casual elegance, the cuisine of the Finger Lakes impressed my palate as much as the wines.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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For more articles about wines of the Finger Lakes from my #WinePW colleagues, see the links below.

• • Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm is Exploring the Wines of New York’s Finger Lakes Region.
  • Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla pairs Bibimbap with Garden Banchan + Forge Cellars Classique Riesling 2017.
  • Lori at Dracaena Wines is Delving Into the History of the Finger Lakes with John Wagner.
  • David at Cooking Chat shares Finger Lakes Wine Paired with Everyday Favorites.
  • Teri at Our Good Life pairs Zero Degree Riesling with Pan Seared Scallops over Cheesy Grits.
  • Jeff at Food Wine Click! writes New York Finger Lakes – I Hope You Like Riesling!
  • Jill at L’OCCASION gives us New York Finger Lakes: Wine For Summer Pairings.
  • Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings matches New York Finger Lakes Wines – Lonesome Stony Rose and Fox Run Rieslings Paired with Quick-Prepped Seafood.
  • Jane at Always Ravenous posts Picnic Fare Paired with Finger Lake Wines.
  • Rupal at Syrah Queen discusses The Charm Of New York Finger Lakes Rieslings.