Aglianico – An Ancient Variety that Ages Well

How much do you know about wine grapes from the ancient world? I’m guessing that when we have a glass of wine, the last thing on our mind is the history of the grape, right? But there are a few of us who are always curious about anything wine and if you’ve read this far, you’re in that category, too.

This month, the #WinePW (Wine Pairing Weekend) group of food and wine writers of which I’m a part decided to get a bit more “geeky” than usual. Under the leadership of Nicole Ruiz Hudson of Somms Table, we’re exploring a range of grapes that are considered those from the Ancient World, diving deep into a bottle of wine from an area with an ancient winemaking tradition or technique or sharing a game-changing memory of when they tasted a wine with a historic past – the choice is ours. For my colleagues’ range of fascinating articles, see the list at the end of this article.

Almost immediately, I knew which variety to choose for the month’s topic: Aglianico, a dry red wine from southern Italy. The name is not only fun to pronounce (“ahh-lee-ah-ni-ko”), it’s a hidden gem of a wine to enjoy with a range of foods, is surprisingly affordable and is one that ages extremely well. But I’m not the only one who loves a good glass of Aglianico. Eric Asimov, popular wine writer, wrote in a 2013 article that Aglianico is one of his favorite red Italian grapes and its wines are “delicious, structured, and age-worthy.” I’ll clink to that!

About Aglianico

Many agree that Aglianico was first cultivated in Phoenicia, then Greece. Vines were transported to southern Italy in the seventh and sixth centuries BC by Greek traders. The debate continues regarding its name during that time. Was it termed “Vitis Hellenica,” “Bellenico” or “Helvola?” No one quite knows the definitive answer… According to Jancis Robinson et al in Wine Grapes (2012), the “earliest written mention of the name Aglianico appeared in 1520. An archive document testifies that Giulio Antonio Acquaviva d’Aragona, Count of Conversano owned fields planted with grapevines called Aglianich (plural of Aglianico).”

Some writers and researchers surmise that Aglianico was the grape used for the famous (and most expensive) wine of the time, Falerno. Pliny the Elder, Roman author and naturalist wrote that Aglianico was “among the greatest in antiquity” and Dennis Dubourdieu, a professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux and a winemaker, considers the variety “the grape with the longest consumer history of all.”

Now, Aglianico is cultivated almost exclusively in Basilicata and Campania where the most prized wines are from Taurasi DOCG. Clay, limestone and volcanic soils give the grape concentration and tannic structure that help the wine improve with age. From the best producers, Aglianico can age for up to fifty years!

Regulations in Taurasi allow for up to 15% other local red varieties to be blended with Aglianico. Further, the wine must be aged for at least 3 years before release with 12 months in oak. A Riserva, however, must age for at least 4 years with 18 months in wood. Full bodied with refreshing acidity, firm tannins and flavors of black cherry, dark chocolate, plum, earth, smoked meat, leather and tar, Aglianico from Taurasi is also known as “The Barolo of the South” with a price tag that’s much less.

Pairing Aglianico with Food

It’s fairly obvious that Aglianico is a win-win with rich Italian food since the combination of fruit and earth can stand up to acidic dishes and add complexity to those with meat. Sausage pizza or Nonna’s lasagna anyone? Other dishes are delicious pairings, too. Consider braised meats such as Osso Bucco or lamb shanks, a robust beef stew, barbecued ribs, and game dishes such as wild boar, squab or roasted duck. Don’t forget strongly flavored cheeses such as Taleggio or Pecorino from Italy or Manchego from Spain. The Manchego, in particular, is one of my favorite cheese pairings with Aglianico.

Always one for wine and food “research”, I opened my sample of Tenuta Cavalier Pepe Opera Mia 2008 Taurasi DOCG ($28) to enjoy with Lamb with Red Wine Sauce. From Aglianico grown in clay and chalky soil on high altitude hills facing south, I discovered enticing aromas of ripened red fruit, smoke, game and spice. On the palate, balanced with plenty of body, notes of chalk, plums, rich cranberries, cooked prunes, vanilla, leather and earth were enveloped in moderate acidity and firm yet incredibly silky tannins that led to a lasting finish. Only 12 years old, the Opera Mia 2008 was brilliant, but I can only guess how beautiful it will be in 10-15 more years.

With every bite of the Lamb with Red Wine sauce and a sip of the Opera Mia 2008, I was in wine and food pairing heaven. The 2008 Aglianico with its complex structure and exceptional palate profile complemented the herbs in the red wine sauce and the fatty, flavorful components of the lamb. I highly recommend this duo for an exceptional dinner that has high potential for starting a conversation about wines of the ancient world!

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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Discover more about wines from the ancient world from my #WinePW colleagues.

• Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla will be sharing “History on the Table – A Dish from the Hundred Years War Meets Wine from the Land of the Bible: Cassoulet + Tabor Adama Shiraz 2013”
• Wendy of A Day on the Life on the Farm will be enjoying “Clams Tossed in Herbs and Spaghetti with a Santo Assyrtiko”
• Terri of Our Good Life is taken with “Old World Charm: Tifosi Vino Bianco with Olives and Citrus”
• Andrea of The Quirky Cork is sharing “#WinePW and The Ancient Wine Culture of Antioch”
• David of Cooking Chat is “Tasting and Pairing Ancient World Wines”
• Pinny of Chinese Food & Wine Pairings is making the case to “Drink Ancient Saperavi and Eat Modern Family Meals from Chinese Takeouts”
• Linda from My Full Wine Glass discovers “Agiorgitiko: Modern Greek Wine from an Ancient Land”
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator shares an “Ancient Wine for Modern Times: Slovenia’s Jarenincan and Calamari with Lemon Caper Sauce”
• Susannah of Avvinare will be sipping an “Ancient Wine from Campania- Falerno del Massico”
• Nicole of Somm’s Table will be sharing “An Armenian Feast with Friends Paired with Armenian Wines”
• Jane of Always Ravenous is talking about “Food and Wine in Ancient Greece”.