The Wines and Food of Custoza DOC are Some of Veneto’s Many Pleasures

Recently, I traveled to Italy, a trip organized and sponsored by IEEM, in order to delve into the wines from selected sub-regions of Piemonte and Veneto. Among my “ah-ha” moments, was a day spent in Custoza DOC where fresh, elegant white wines, the area’s specialties, were perfect conversation starters. Our group of journalists and sommeliers tasted selections from three unique wineries, Monte del Fra, Cavalchina and Gorgo, and savored traditional dishes at Trattoria Colli Storici, a local family-run restaurant in Sommacampagna.

Prior to my visit to Custoza DOC, I had only peripheral knowledge about the region. As you may guess, one of my favorite endeavors when traveling is to stumble upon interesting wines and regional fare. And as much as I’d like to keep these hidden gems to myself, it’s better to share these finds with others!

Custoza DOC

The name Custoza DOC originates from the historic municipality of Sommacampagna located in the southern part of Verona. Configured as a morainic amphitheater, the region’s soil has a strong mineral composition with rocky material from the walls of the mountains thanks to erosion from glaciers of long ago. A mixture of clay and gravel ensure proper drainage and the composition is mainly calcareous, elements leading to wines offering a mineral thread on the nose and palate and rich flavors.

During the summer, sunshine warms the landscape and is countered by soft breezes wafting from Lake Garda throughout the year. A microclimate with a diurnal temperature range and rainfall occurring mainly during the spring and fall result in white wines with vibrant acidity and, when cultivated in selected vineyards, the ability to age. Recognized for centuries as a wine growing area, the land was registered and classified by ruling Hapsburg authorities in 1848.

 

Currently, there are 1400 hectares of vineyards from a production area that extends between the municipalities of Sommacampagna, Villafranca di Verona, Valeggio sul Mincio, Sona, Bussolengo, Lazise, Pastrengo, Peschiera del Garda and Castelnuovo del Garda. 13 million bottles are produced each year in Custoza, established as a DOC in 1971. 50% of Custoza wines are produced by cooperative wineries and 35% by local producers; there are 95 winemakers in the region. Wines designated as Custoza Superiore DOC are of grapes cultivated in local cru vineyards.

The region produces white, sparkling, dessert and specialty wines. Principal white grape varieties are Cortese, Friulano, Garganega and Trebbiano. Prior to 2019, however, wines were required to contain Friulano, Garganega and Trebbiano Toscano; the new rules now include Cortese to allow for more flexibility and to highlight the variety in the blend. The wines I tasted at each winery and during lunch were fresh, elegant, delightfully aromatic and complex, due to the fact that the white wines of Custoza are blends of the aforementioned varieties. In general, floral and fruit notes dominated the nose and palate, yet I noted a subtle thread of spice and minerality. (For more information about the rules and regulations in Custoza DOC, please click here.)

A Taste of Wines from Custoza DOC

The first stop was Monte del Fra, located in the village of Custoza and owned by the Bonomo family. Our visit was led by Marica Bonomo, daughter of the founder and niece to the winemaker. Celebrating its 60^th year, the winery is now comprised of about 132 hectares spread throughout Custoza and other areas of Verona. Approximately 2 million bottles are produced each year. Considered one of the “most avantgarde wineries” for production of premium grapes, the family and team manage with a hands-on philosophy to preserve the character of the grapes.

Cortese and Garganega are the primary varieties in the blends from Monte del Fra’s Custoza vineyards. Marica was adamant when she remarked that each wine is “culture in a glass” and added that “the grape must be respected, the style must be respected.” During the tasting, I understood what she meant – each wine was pure, fresh and elegant.

Custoza DOC 2018, a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Tocai friulano, Cortese, Chardonnay, Riesling and Italico-Malvasia, boasted notes of apples, peaches, pear, banana, lime, an accent of minerality and bright acidity leading to a tropical fruit finish. Marica felt that this was a “no stress white wine” with which to relax and enjoy.

Ca’ del Magro 2017 Custoza Superiore DOC is of Garganega, Trebbiano Toascano, Cortese, Chardonnay-Risling, Italico-Malvasia and Incrocio Manzoni cultivated in a single, 55-year-old vineyard. Complex and age-worthy, I found notes of lemon, spice, ripe orchard fruit, citrus and that signature minerality on both nose and palate.  Marica felt that the Ca’ del Magro 2016 Custoza Superiore DOC was the “most gourmet wine the team tasted in the spring.” Balanced with aromas and flavors of grilled pineapple, baked lemon, saffron and minerality, this elegant example may be aged for several more years.

Our final wine from their Custoza vineyards was Bonomo 2015 Custoza Superiore DOC comprised of Garganega, Trebbiano Toscano, Cortese, Incrocio Manzoni, Pinot Bianco and Riesling Renano. Rich and full bodied with elements of petrol, honey, lemon curd and anise, this wine, unlike the others, was fermented in oak and acacia small barrels.

A short drive from Sommacampagna was Azienda Agricola Cavalchina located on the southeast border of the Garda amphitheater. Cavalchina was founded in the early 1900s after the purchase of the first vineyards; now there are a total of 130 hectares.  By the 1960s, the Piona family “felt that the white wines of Custoza deserved better recognition that simply being labelled as Soave.” In 1962, they were the first producers to label their white wines of Fernanda, Trebbiano and Garganega with “Custoza.” Subsequently, they marketed these wines in key cities in Italy and now, 800 thousand bottles are produced annually. Thanks to their monumental efforts, the Piona family and wines of Cavalchina are crucial markers of Custoza wine history.

Our introduction to Cavalchina’s wines was Cavalchina Custoza DOC 2018, a blend of Garganega, Fernanda, Trebbiano and Trebbianella. Easy drinking and approachable, notes of dried yellow flowers and a beam of minerality were fresh and delightful.

A vertical of the Amedeo was just as flavorful as it was a nod to history. The wine is named after Prince Amedeo of Savoia who fought in 1866 in the third Italian War of Independence near the Cavalchina estate. As we drove up the driveway, I noted the war’s memorial stone at the entrance to the winery.

Elegant and complex, the Amedeo 2018 Custoza Superiore DOC presented aromas of lemon, acetone, salinity and minerality. The Amedeo 2010 Custoza Superiore DOC was a quiet, rich style that saw a bit of oak; it reminded me somewhat of the gracious wines from Bourgogne. Finally, the Amedeo 2007 Custoza Superiore DOC was ripe, rich and broad with plenty of yellow fruit and florals on the nose and palate. It’s been said that “Amedeo is the best of Cavalchina” and it must be true – for the past fourteen years, the wine has won the highly desirable Tre Bicchieri award from Gambero Rosso.

A visit to the Gorgo Wine Estate was a delicious finale. Established in 1973 with 22 hectares, Gorgo now consists of 60 hectares, almost all part of the Custoza and Bardolino production areas. I was surprised to learn that, along with typical varieties, are plantings of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pink Muscat in order to “create a passionate and creative range of elegant and unique wines.” Since its inception, owner Roberto Bricolo managed the estate and now, his daughter Roberta is at the helm. As of 2018 all vineyards are organic and 500,000 bottles are produced, 60% of which are exported.

As the group entered the modern tasting room, we were offered a glass of Perlato Custoza DOC Spumante Brut, a dry sparkling wine with a snappy, fruit forward taste. The Custoza DOC 2019 was a rich, everyday wine with classic notes on the nose and a salty sensation on the palate. The San Michelin Custoza DOC 2018, creamy and elegant wine with fruit-forward and savory notes were of varieties cultivated in the ancient San Michelin vineyard.

Summa Custoza Superiore DOC is considered a “gastronomic wine” and paired with the abundant cheese and charcuterie selections before us on the table, the notes of minerality coupled with complex aromas and flavors of fruit were absolutely beautiful.

Foods for Pairing with Wines from Custoza DOC

I consider the selections I sipped as luscious complements to my lunch at Trattoria Colli Storici in Sommacompagna where elements of authenticity were on the table and in my glass. Traditional dishes of tastisal risotto (risotto with finely ground pork seasoned with an abundance of black pepper and salt to give the meat depth and flavor), pasta, fried broccolini and more were served. My favorite, however, was tortellini of Valeggio sul Mincio filled with a mixture of beef, pork and chicken with carrot, celery and rosemary, dried, then cooked in meat broth and served with butter, sage, and sprinkle of cheese. Other dishes? Consider your favorite recipe for fish or poultry and choose regional cheeses, sausages, prosciutto, roasted or fried vegetables and warm breads for pairing.

Why are the wines and food of Custoza DOC some of Veneto’s many pleasures? The pure, rich expressions of fruit and varying degrees of minerality in each wine, whether the vintage was recent or older, were elegant and flavorful pairings to the savory, textured foods. I invite you to experience the pleasures of Custoza DOC in Veneto, too. I look forward to reading how…

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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