On Wine Cooperatives, Sicily’s Cantine Settesoli and Mandrarossa Winery

Many consider wine from a large cooperative “less-than” in terms of quality. In some cases that’s true if, among other factors, the caliber of the wine is compromised due to the vast quantity produced. But after a recent lunch in Chicago, I can honestly state that wines from Mandrarossa Winery, a label from the Cantine Settesoli cooperative in Menfi, Sicily, are anything but sub-standard. In fact, after tasting the wines and talking with Alberto Antonini, Consultant Winemaker, and Stephan Moccia, Export Manager Europe and Global Coordinator, I was so blown away by the luxury in each sip, I’ve been telling everyone I know about my latest discoveries. Now, it’s your turn to find out!

Just in time, Kevin Gagnon at Snarky Wine is hosting this month’s #ItalianFWT (Italian Food Wine Travel) twitter chat on Saturday, February 1 at 10am central time. I’d love to have you join our group of winelovers who taste wines, pair our discoveries with food, travel as much as possible and write about our experiences. Our focus this time around is Italian wine cooperatives that produce quality wines that are worth a second sip. For Kevin’s excellent introductory article about the concept and goals of wine cooperatives, click here. I hope to see you on Saturday.

Cantine Settesole

At Cantine Settesole, a wine cooperative founded in 1958, 2000 growers from family-run vineyards in southwest Sicily produce grapes for three specific labels: Settesole, Mandrarossa and Inycon. They cultivate 30 varieties on 6000 hectares of land, about 7% of all vineyards on the island. Cantine Settasole was the first Italian wine company to “certify the traceability of the entire production chain, from the vineyard to the wineries.” In fact, it has one of the largest photovoltaic plants in the wine-producing sector in the country. Along with their investments in technology and the vast territory that spans from Menfi to Montevago and Santa Maria di Belice, those at Cantine Settasole “take care of their vineyards like it’s part of the family.”

Mandrarossa Winery

Mandrarossa Winery, in the province of Agrigento in Menfi, was developed in 1999 after Alberto Antonini, world renowned consulting winemaker, was asked to join a team of experts charged with a unique project. Their mission was to identify the top tier of estates within Menfi’s micro-terroirs, biodiversity, numerous exposures, slopes, altitudes, sea breezes and sunshine in order to produce superior estate-bottled wines. The goal has been accomplished.

Now, Mandrarossa Winery produces exceptional wine from grapes considered the “best of the best.” It’s Cantine Settasole’s highest tier brand with grapes sourced from fewer than 10% of their growers. During our conversation, Antonini stated that their goal is “to deliver to the world what is possible in Sicily” and their focus is on “the authenticity of the grape.” Even now Antonini continues to work with Mandrarossa’s head winemaker and agronomist “to map soils, identify the best grape clones and collaborate with grower families on vineyard management.”

Alberto Antonini and Stephan Moccia explained that the Mandrarossa Winery is currently undergoing an in-depth project whereby single territory wines with limited production are being produced in order to “show the purest expression of their respective grape varieties and territories.” At lunch, I tasted two exemplary wines: Terre del Sommaco of 100% Nero d’Avola grown on limestone soils over 1000 feet above sea level, and Bertolino Soprano of 100% Grillo cultivated on limestone soils nearly 500 feet above sea level. With each sip, authenticity, elegance, freshness and drinkability could be noted in each glass.

Pairing Mandrarossa Wines with Food

 Our lunch was held at Two (1132 West Grand Avenue, Chicago) and during our gastronomic experience, I wondered why I had never dined there! That will change. Breads, desserts, ricotta cheeses and more are made in-house and the philosophy of the cuisine reflected that of the wines from Mandrarossa. Delicious food that was honest, pure, of the highest standard and beautifully crafted were exceptional accompaniments to the wines.

Homemade buttered naan with edamame hummus was passed as I sipped a refreshing “Costadune” Grillo 2018 ($11.99). Of 100% Grillo grown on sandy soils on dunes sloping to the sea, the notes of grapefruit, basil and breezy salinity were just delightful. Alberto remarked that “Grillo is the Chardonnay of Sicily.”

Paired with Faroe Island salmon, sunchoke puree, sunchoke conserva, shaved fennel and orange segments were three wines. “Costadune” Zibibbo 2018 ($17.99) of 100% Zibibbo was crisp and fresh from beginning to end and burst with lovely aromas of orange peel, citrus and white peach flesh. Bertolino Soprano 2017 ($42.99) of 100% Grillo was juicy, fresh and textured with plenty of stone fruit, citrus and floral notes and bright acidity.

Our first red wine of the day, “Costadune” Frappato ($17.99), is of 100% Frappato. Fruit forward and lush with a balanced, round mouthfeel, I was enticed with its notes of red berries, bright, sweet spice and savory notes that paired beautifully with the first course.

As the Prime Hangar Steak with onion soubise, roasted fingerling potato and chimichurri was served, four wines were poured. A crowd favorite, “Timperosse” Petit Verdot 2018 ($19.99) of 100% Petit Verdot was rife with pure, juicy red fruit, black plums, rosemary and sage while framed with soft tannins and vibrant acidity.

“Bonera” 2018 ($19.99) is of 50% Nero d’Avola and 50% Cabernet Franc cultivated on rich soils from “some of the best vineyards in the Agregento region of Sicily.” Intense on the nose and palate, I discovered elements of red and dried fruit, nuts and rich plum. Alberto explained that with regards to the Nero d’Avola variety, we “shouldn’t be afraid to show the essence of the grape.” It’s “about confidence to deliver Nero d’Avola as it is.” Truly, this wine was a brilliant pairing with the beef.

Elegant and refined, “Cartagho” Nero d’Avola 2017 ($26.99) is produced from fruit grown on carefully selected premium vineyards on limestone and clay soil. Notes of bright red fruit, lively blackberries, vibrant acidity and lush tannins helped produce a complex, balanced wine.

Our last wine was “Terre del Sommacco” Nero d’Avola 2016 ($49.99), another tantalizing pairing with the Hangar Steak. Produced in Menfi vineyards that stretch along southwest facing hills at 1017 feet above sea level on limestone soils everyone agreed that the “Terre del Sommacco” was a showstopper. On the nose, I found luscious ripe cherries, juicy blackberries and spice surrounded with gentle tannic structure and bright acidity. The exceptional finish lingered…

Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more Grape Experiences delivered directly to you, click here.

For more information about wine cooperatives in Italy, enjoy the following articles from my colleagues.

• Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares “Celebrate Chinese New Year, Observe Italian wine coop evolution, OMG yummy Prosecco!”
• Katarina at Grapevine Adventures shares “Cincinnato – A Cooperative in Lazio Focused on Native Grapes“
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares “Prosecco, coop-style: What do these tasters say?”
• Jane at Always Ravenous shares “Popping the Corks on Cooperative Prosecco”
• Marcia at Joy of Wine shares “Cooperetiva Produttori del Barbaresco“
• Jen at Vino Travels Italy shares “Italian Wine Cooperatives with Prosecco from Val d’Oca”
• Liz at What’s in That Bottle shares “What’s Up with Italian Wine Cooperatives?“
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Godendo Aperitivo Prima di Cena “
• Lynn at Savor the Harvest shares “Alpine Wine Cooperative – How Things Roll in Alto Adige“
• Susannah at Avvinare shares “Visiting Lake Garda through the wines of Cantina Colli Morenici”
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “The Italian Wine Cooperative Surprise“
• Camilla at Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Hardworking Kids, Fresh Pasta, and a Red Wine from Vallevò“
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator matches ” 3 Bottles of Bubbles from Italy’s Val D’Oca Paired with Butternut Crab Bisque and Polenta Shrimp“
• Nicole at Somm’s Table shares “The History of Amarone at Cantina Valpolicella Negrar, and Domìni Veneti Amarone Classico with Decadent, Braised Lamb Shanks“