The Appeal of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero

It’s always a tasty learning experience to participate in the Snooth media live chats. Most recently, a group of journalists, wine and food bloggers and other lovers of the grape participated in Snooth’s conversation about wines from Rueda and Ribera del Duero in the “Heartland of Spain.” Located on the high plateaus along the Duero River in the Castilla y Leon region of North-Central Spain, the areas are southwest of Rioja and a mere two hours north of Madrid.

A portion of the group received wines (sent as samples) from DO Rueda and the remaining participants opened wines from DO Ribera del Duero. I was thrilled to swirl, sip and savor wines as a member of “Team Ribera” and during the conversation and after a few sips, I began to understand why so many wine aficionados choose a luscious wine from the region.

Photo Credit: www.riberaruedawine.com

About DO Ribera del Duero

When an ancient mosaic of Bacchus was discovered, it was determined that wines have been produced in the region for over 2000 years. In 1982, DO Ribera Del Duero was founded with nine participating wineries; now there are more than 300.

Separated from maritime influences by a circle of mountains, vineyards of the Ribera del Duero are found on the highest portion of the Meseta – some vineyards are planted as high as 850 meters. Soils range from sand and clay close to the river to marl and limestone on the slopes.

The high altitude offers cool night temperatures although during the day, temperatures may be extremely hot. Fortunately, the Tempranillo grape (known locally as Tinto Fino) that comprises 95% of the plantings, thrives in this climate. Their full-bodied wines are ripe and structured with resounding depth and complexity.

Photo Credit: www.riberaruedawine.com

Consistently sunny days and diurnal temperatures of Ribera del Duero result in Tempranillo grapes that ripen with high levels of color from dark cherry to deep purple in their skins. Further, ripe fruit, vanilla and spice aromas and bright acidity are retained throughout the growing process. The variety develops a very thick skin and wines from the region offer more powerful tannins than those cultivated in Rioja. Wines may now be aged in French, American and at times Eastern European oak, a change from tradition.

Tempranillo offers a variety of styles that make it a brilliant choice for food pairings. When you’re in your local wine shop, note the labels that indicate style. If the Tempranillo is a Crianza, it spent more than one year in the barrel. A Reserva indicates that the wine aged for more than one year in the barrel and more than two years in the bottle and a Gran Reserva means that the wine spent more than two years in the barrel and more than three years in the bottle. A Tempranillo designated as Cosecha is a wine that doesn’t adhere to the determined ageing specifications but often meets or exceeds classification requirements. A wine classified as Joven falls into the Cosecha category. It’s unoaked, released young and meant to be sipped as soon as possible.

Often compared to a “more nuanced” Cabernet Sauvignon, I’ve found that the range of styles and savory profile of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero have an uncanny ability to complement a range of foods. Consider a cup of onion soup, vegetable pizza, lasagna, juicy burger right off the grill, roasted lamb, polenta, tacos, nachos and aged cheese for pairing. The region’s signature dish is a Spanish cured ham, Jamón Iberico de Bellota, a spot-on accompaniment to a brilliant glass of Tempranillo.

A Tasting of Wines from Ribera del Duero

Our first wine, Bodegas Cepa 21 Hito Rosado 2017 ($18) was tasty and flavorful especially with a dish I enjoyed recently: tacos of crispy beer battered tilapia with tomato, cilantro, mango aioli and pickled red onions. Intense aromas of ripe strawberries, raspberries, maraschino cherries, herbs and cedar were an enticing entry to this lovely wine. On the tart palate, vibrant acidity and the slightest hint of tannins surrounded notes of bright red fruit and kiwi. Balanced with a snappy minerality and long fruit-filled finish, the wine was a refreshing example of a Rosado of which less than 2% are produced in Ribera del Duero.

Next, the Valderiz Valdehermosa Joven Ribera Del Duero 2016 ($25) is of 100% Tempranillo. Young, fresh and unoaked, the power comes solely from the Tempranillo grape sourced from vineyards more than 25 years old and free of chemical treatments or artificial fertilizers. Characteristics of rich, ripe red and black fruit, coffee, mocha, cardamon, cherries, black currants and earth were up front and center on both nose and palate. With robust acidity and integrated tannins, this “fall porch pounder” was easy drinking yet lush. Each sip was a mouthwatering complement to homemade Queso Fundido, a gooey, cheesy dish laden with mushrooms, garlic and spinach then scooped into soft tortillas or served with taco chips for dipping.

Fresh and balanced, the Finca Torremilanos Los Cantos de Torremilanos 2016 ($17) begged for tapas… and my small plate of grilled skirt steak tacos with chorizo, chihuahua cheese and tomatillo-serrano salsa delivered. The varieties, 95% Tempranillo and 5% Merlot, were cultivated on biodynamically farmed vineyards where the average age of the vines are 35 years. On the nose, aromas of menthol, dark fruit, blackberries and mulling spices were a fascinating entry to a palate boasting flavors of black pepper, dark fruit and vanilla surrounded with medium acidity and soft yet powerful tannic structure. Aged in oak for 16 months, this taste of Spain reminded me that I must return.