Experience an American Expression of Beaujonomie with Breaking Bread Wines

“Beaujonomie” is a contraction of the words “Beaujolais” and “gastronomy.” It also refers to the Beaujolais lifestyle of sharing and conviviality. Erik Miller, Winemaker at both Kokomo Winery and Breaking Bread Winery, has embraced that concept with two wines, sent to me as samples, from Breaking Bread Winery located in Healdsburg, California. Both wines pair beautifully with friends, conversation, laughter and delicious food. It’s no wonder then, that the words “breaking bread” signify a “comfortable, friendly interaction where something is shared.” Erik Miller knows exactly what winelovers want.

With each sip, I, too, adopted an American expression of Beaujonomie when I opened bottles of Grenache and Zinfandel with friends. But wait! There are more elements of these wines from Breaking Bread Winery that reflect those from Beaujolais.

I was inspired to begin this new project by an emerging style of California wines that are lighter in alcohol, crunchy in acidity and bright in appearance. Originally introduced to this style of wine by Cru Beaujolais, I decided to craft my own interpretation of this from two of my favorite varietals: Zinfandel and Grenache. The defining characteristic is whole-cluster fermentation (carbonic maceration) which lends a crunchy, herbaceous character to the wine. The goal is a very hands-off approach to winemaking that highlights the purity of fruit and deliciousness of a lighter bodied red wine that preferable should be served chilled or slightly chilled. Erik Miller, Winemaker

The two wines I tasted were of Zinfandel and Grenache, cultivated in Redwood Valley in Mendocino County. The vineyard is high in elevation and contains red soils of alluvial loam and gravel and the region enjoys cool evenings that last until October. As a result, the growing season is extended. According to Erik, “these climate conditions as well as the fact that the vineyard is dry farmed, enables the grapes to attain physiological maturation at a lower brix level.”

The wines of Beaujolais are characterized by carbonic maceration, a vinification process that Erik Miller uses in the wines from Breaking Bread. In essence, whole bunches of uncrushed grapes are placed in vats that are sealed and filled with CO2 in order to remove the oxygen. Intracellular fermentation occurs and when the alcohol level reaches around 2% ABV, grape skins break and juice is released. One result is that wines tend to be lighter in color with moderate tannins and an elegant, fruit forward profile.

Obviously, Erik Miller worked with Zinfandel and Grenache from Mendocino County as opposed to Gamay, the signature red grape cultivated in Beaujolais. I was impressed with each wine’s easy drinking profile, light body and pure, gentle fruit flavors. My friends felt the same way as we engaged in our American version of Beaujonomie with clinks and toasts to each other while enjoying delicious food and a beautiful afternoon together. Now, you can, too.

Breaking Bread 2018 Grenache ($24) is of 100% Grenache. Brilliant aromas of cranberries, cherries, pomegranate, raspberries, orange peel and earth were a lovely entry. On the palate, vibrant acidity and moderate tannins framed notes of ripe cherries, red berries, toast and minerality. The finish lingered and long as our conversations with friends.

Likewise, Breaking Bread 2018 Zinfandel ($24) was a crowd pleaser in every sense of the word. I discovered mint, red currants, cinnamon stick, vanilla, cherry pie and baked apple aromas gently wafting from the glass after a few swirls. With a lush, round mouthfeel, tangy acidity and soft, integrated tannins, I noted flavors of white pepper, red fruit compote, mint leaves, a touch of espresso and that minerality I love so much.

Cheers! ~ Cindy