Many of my friends and family members love to travel as much as I do and from time to time I find them exploring stunning wine regions around the world. One good friend, Ellyn Foltz, recently returned from a stellar trip to Budapest, Vienna and surrounding areas that include places I’ve longed to visit. As I listened to her range of experiences, I knew that she needed to share one of her favorite wine moments on Grape Experiences. Ellyn graciously agreed to write the following account of her sojourn to Nikolaihof Winery, one that should be on everyone’s list. Enjoy!
“Several weeks ago on a family trip to central and eastern Europe, we had the pleasure of visiting the family-owned Nikolaihof Winery located in Austria’s spectacular Wachau Valley. Wachau is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is breathtaking with rolling hills, medieval ruins, magnificent monasteries and delicious wines that have been cultivated since Roman times.
The facade of Nikolaihof Winery – Photo Credit: Ellyn Foltz
We were welcomed by Christine Saahs, the charming and charismatic matriarch of the family who owns Nikolaihof and by her son Nikolaus, the current winemaker. The two of them explained the truly ancient history of the location (two millennia and counting), their winemaking philosophy (a biodynamic approach well beyond organic – they are Demeter-certified) and their plans for the future including grapeseed-based skincare. And then we got to taste what we came for – the wines!
I’ll start by saying that one of Nikolaihof’s wines, the 1995 Vinothek Riesling, was awarded a ‘100’ by Robert Parker so there is a history of excellence. I tried several of the recent vintages and thought the 2017 Chardonnay, the 2017 Riesling Federspiel and the 2018 Grüner Veltliner were especially noteworthy. Since my favorite wines in the world are Sauvignon Blancs, I particularly loved the Grüner – dry, crisp, flinty, with a balanced acidity that was wonderful paired with the creamy Austrian cheese, homemade bread and fruit supplied by our thoughtful hosts. I can imagine how perfect it would be paired with shellfish.
Family members enjoying a glass of Grüner Veltliner – Photo Credit: Ellyn Foltz
It would be an omission if I didn’t mention that there are numerous beautiful wineries in the Wachau Valley and as it’s less than an hour from Vienna, it’s an easy day trip. The valley is gorgeous and there’s much to do. In addition to Nikolaihof, we visited Melk Abbey, begun in 1089, to see its famous library, gardens and tapestries. The younger members of our family hiked up to see the ruins of Durnstein castle where Richard the I of England was imprisoned while returning from the Crusades. The archaeological site of Willendorf, where many significant Paleolithic-era discoveries were found, including “the Venus of Willendorf,” the world-famous fertility symbol, is also in the Valley.
One of the many historical buildings on the property of Nikolaihof Winery – Photo Credit: Ellyn Foltz
Let me close with a few final words on the Saah family’s long philosophical commitment to the biodynamic approach – letting nature take its course and cultivating without pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Instead they use traditional methods such as stinging nettles to enrich the soil as well as other time-honored herbal preparations. Christine indicated that when she and her husband first undertook this strategy in the 1970s, it was considered quite radical, but they were convinced of its integrity. “The world has over time completely validated our approach,” Christine Saah said with a smile.
I greatly admired her passion and dedication to this healthy, natural way of producing delicious and unique wines and applaud the results those at Nikolaihof Winery has achieved over many decades.” – Ellyn Foltz
Of note: Ellyn Foltz lives in Atlanta and loves to travel with family and friends, cooking, reading, gardening and keeping up with new innovations in the software industry where she has been employed for over forty years. Her new favorite wine may indeed be Grüner Veltliner because it’s both delicious and fun to pronounce!
