When you want to discover the story of Collio DOC, pour a glass of wine produced in this small, highly prestigious region in the northeast corner of Italy. Having spent four fascinating days in Collio, I now understand that the region’s vibrant history and distinctive terroir are able to be explored with every sip of wine. Thanks to a gracious invitation from Conzorsio Collio and IEEM, our group of journalists and sommeliers had daily opportunities to taste and learn from winemakers and other industry experts who are zealous ambassadors of the region.
Vineyards at Ca’Ronesca
Collio is known internationally for its variety of white wines that exude minerality and an uncanny ability to age. Although international varieties such as Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Muller Thurgau, Riesling, Sauvignon and Traminer Aromatico are grown in Collio, the region is recognized for indigenous grapes Friuliano, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, and Picolit. During the trip, an emphasis was also placed on Collio Bianco, considered by many to be the “true essence and soul of the territory” and Sauvignon Blanc that one expert deemed “a wine you can drink with your nose!” Highly aromatic with body and structure, these are the wines to find in order to learn more about Collio.
White wine grapes are grown on hills and slopes between the nearby Alps and the Adriatic Sea about 12 miles away. These slopes, formed during the Eocene period, are composed of layers of sandstone and loam rock that once were the ocean floor. A micro-climate with winds sweeping through the vineyards to cool the grapes after a warm sunny day and broad diurnal temperature shifts combine with the mineral-rich “ponca” soil of marl and clay. These elements provide a prime environment for a range of varieties to flourish.
Enticed? Following are talking points regarding three indigenous grapes, two international varieties and one special cuvée upon which we focused during the trip to Collio. I’ve also included after each description a recommendation for an affordable, delicious example to try. I’ve always said that it’s one thing to read about a region and its wines – it’s incredibly meaningful to find an exemplary bottle at your go-to wine shop or on your favorite restaurant’s wine list to taste for yourself. It’s now your turn to enjoy the Collio experience… one sip at a time!
Friulano
Originally introduced to Friuli in the early 1800s, the grape Sauvignonasse was given the name Tokai. The name Tocai Friulano appeared for the first time in the 1930s to capitalize upon the success of internationally known wine Tokaj, made of the Furmint grape cultivated in Hungary. As of 2008, due to pressure from the Tokaj wine region in Hungary, its new name in Italy is Friulano. This grape continues to thrive in northeast Italy.
Considered a local favorite, the thin-skinned variety has an early to mid-season ripening period with high yields and is highly adaptable to the unique ponca soil and microclimate of the region. In general, Friuliano offers a fair amount of sugar, high acidity and minerality as it exudes aromas and flavors of almonds, citrus, herbs and freshly cut grass.
Find this: I tasted the glorious Castello di Spessa Rassauer Collio Friulano ($19) one evening and was duly impressed with its signature profile that also included notes of white flowers and rose petals on the nose and palate. Pair this lovely Friuliano with a regional dish, Prosciutto Crudo di San Daniele, a ham from Friuli Venezia Giulia, with sides of melon, figs, pears, grapes or pineapple. Your journey to Collio has just begun!
Malvasia Istriana
Known as Malvasia Istriana in northeast Italy, this white grape is the same as Malvazija Istarska from Croatia’s Istrian peninsula. Present in the region since the 1300s (and believed to have been brought from Greece by Venetian merchants), the variety is resistant to pests, grows vigorously and ripens towards the middle or late in the season. It grows more effectively on loose, well-drained soils. In the glass, Malvasia Istriana offers a round mouthfeel, a moderately high sugar content and medium acidity while on the palate, flavors of peaches, apricots and white currants are present.
Find this: After your first sip of Gradis’Ciutta Collio Malvasia 2016 ($24), you’ll want more! Enjoyed during dinner one evening at Rural Chic in San Floriano del Collio, I discovered ripe apricots, hazelnuts, chalk and white flower aromas leading to juicy citrus, lemon peel, hint of honey and stone fruit. A brilliant complement to the wine was Ravioli di Montasio in brodo d’asparagi e perle d’ortaggi (ravioli with asparagus and vegetable pearls) cooked to perfection by notable Chef Daniele Repetti. Nirvana.
Ribolla Gialla
Ribolla Gialla is thought of as an ancient variety from Friuli-Venezia Giulia. It was first noted in 1296 according to Wine Grapes (2012 edition) by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding and Jose Vouillamoz. The authors write that “Pope Boniface VIII settles a dispute between the Bishop of Trieste and the monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venezia about the selling of a wine called Rabola.” Many references soon thereafter show that Ribolla Gialla was already cultivated extensively in the region by the 14th century. The thin-skinned variety is naturally vigorous, ripens mid to late in the season and needs stony, well ventilated hills on which to thrive. I found Ribolla Gialla to offer styles ranging from light in body and high in acidity to more concentrated notes with elements of minerality, raw almonds and ripe golden fruit.
Find This: Prior to dinner at Rural Chic, our group had an opportunity to swirl and sip a plethora of wines at a walk-around tasting. Of note was Humar Collio Ribolla Gialla ($20) an elegant wine that glimmered golden yellow in the glass. Intense floral and citrus aromas let to a balanced lightweight palate profile that exuded mouthwatering acidity, minerality, freshness and flavors of lush citrus. A memorable pairing may be seafood, cold appetizers, pastas and cream soups.
Pinot Bianco
Pinot Bianco, also known as Pinot Blanc in wine regions of Alsace, France (among others), expresses a variety of styles in Collio. Its thin skin is sensitive to mold and ripens early with average to low growth and medium yields. Vines develop on the area’s hilly sites with adequate drainage and typically offer good sugar levels and medium to low acidity. Generally, Pinot Bianco is produced in a light, crisp style as a single varietal or blended with other grapes; it’s usually unoaked… but not always. Intense aromas of juicy just-picked apple and white flowers are elegant and its medium to full bodied palate is structured with a textured mouthfeel. As a bonus, Pinot Bianco reacts extremely well to Collio’s climate and the pure, clean winemaking techniques of those responsible for its production. Another interesting and flavorful wine for white wine lovers? Absolutely!
Find This: It didn’t take long for me to find Livon “Cavezzo” Pinot Bianco Collio 2017 ($51) during a barrel room picnic and walk around tasting at Cormòns on the first night of arrival. The Livon family has a history of winemaking for fifty years and now, Dorino Livon has become one of the most successful and well-recognized Friulan winemakers. Livon’s first vineyard was purchased in 1964 and since that time, more parcels were procured resulting in the establishment of the Azienda Agricola Livon estate. The vineyard and winemaking efforts continue to be a family legacy of passion and love for the region. And that wine! Of 100% Pinot Bianco, beautiful aromas of jasmine, wildflowers, soft and ripe cherries, dried apricots and ripe apples wafted from the glass. Dry with medium body and vibrant acidity, citrus and stone fruit flavors led to a snappy, lingering finish. The Pinot Bianco was a delectable accompaniment to our picnic fare of risotto and grilled chicken with asparagus and chutney.
Sauvignon Blanc
The Sauvignon Blanc variety has been cultivated in Collio for 150 years. Apparently, a wealthy landowner in Collio gave his daughter parcels of land as her dowry when she married a Count from the Loire Valley in France. In turn, the Count brought Sauvignon Blanc vines from his beloved home, although France had banned this sort of export! The rest is history. Thanks to an optimal climate, soil, hills, slopes and exposure to the sun, Sauvignon Blanc flourishes in Collio.
Although often called “the fussy one” due to its sensitivity to heat and rain and need for precise, well-ventilated sites, Sauvignon Blanc is appreciated for its ability to express a variety of palate profiles. In fact, wine expert Richard Baudains explained during a master class that the “biggest variable in Sauvignon Blanc from Collio is site selection.” In general wines are complex and aromatic with elements of sweet peppers, sage, tomato leaf and white currants. Baudains shared that “on the palate, juicy notes start soft and round and develop fresh and long.”
Find This: It was a wonderful surprise to receive as samples before my visit to the region, two wines from Marco Felluga, an acclaimed winery in Collio. The Russiz Superiore property was settled as early as 1273 by Raimondo della Torre, Patriarch of Friuli; his descendants were the first owners of Russiz. Through time, other owners have claimed the land and the wines produced at the estate in Capriva del Friuli, thought of as the “crown jewel of the Felluga family,” provide a lasting identity to the land and the region. As preliminary “research” before the trip to Collio, I opened the first sample, Russiz Superiore Collio Sauvignon 2018 ($29). I immediately discovered intense aromas of lemon zest, honeysuckle, white fleshy peaches and exotic spice. On the elegant, refreshing palate, zesty acidity framed notes of lemons, ripe pears, chalk, wet straw, green grass, mint leaves and honey. The broad, rich finish lingered longer than I could have imagined. Served at dinner at Castello di Spessa, Sauvignon was poured with risotto with butter and sage… an absolutely stunning pairing.
Collio Bianco
The most representative wine of the territory is Collio Bianco, a field blend of wine grapes cultivated in over 100 farms. Winemakers are allowed “free interpretation of the style” as long as he or she adheres to the specifications of each variety. A traditional Collio Bianco is of Friulano, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla although other varieties may be found in the blend, too. Characteristics include elegant aromas with fresh yellow fruit and white flowers as well as a palate that is full, firm and broad.
Find This: Marco Felluga Collio Bianco Molamatta 2015 ($26), sent as a sample, is considered one of the most important wines in the Marco Felluga portfolio as it “represents the epitome of wines produced in the Collio territory.” The name “Molamatta” refers to the grape vineyard’s geographic location in the village of Farra d’Isonzo at 80 meters above sea level. A blend of Pinot Bianco, Tocai Friulano and Ribolla Gialla, I discovered an intense bouquet of juicy oranges, lemon zest, and fresh squeezed limes. On the palate, notes of ripe citrus, lemons, sage, thyme and vanilla led to a fresh and lengthy finish. A lovely pairing was an elegant, flavorful dish I tasted at Rural Chic: filetto di suino leggermente affumicato con chutney di mele, riduzione di vino cotto e chips di tapioca, a pork filet with chutney and so much more.
For more articles about the intriguing people, wines and landscape of Collio DOC, please click the titles below.
Collio: One of the Most Unique White Wine Regions of the World
Wine and Poetry Unite at Ca’Ronesca and Zorutti in Collio DOC
Picolit – A Historic, Rare, Sweet Dessert Wine from Collio DOC
