Fiano? Biancolella d’Ischia? Sangiovese? Sagrantino? Orsi Family Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County is home to these classic Italian varieties produced in extremely limited production. Why, though, are they cultivated in a region well-known for its signature grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel?
To discover the answer, I participated in a twitter chat with Bernie Orsi and his son, Mark. Prior to the chat, I was sent four wines as samples to taste (see reviews below). While a group of wine writing colleagues discussed the family’s story, winemaking philosophy and more during our virtual conversation we compared tasting notes, asked questions and offered accolades. Bernie Orsi stated that “the cool climate of Sonoma County is just like Tuscany. Remove the redwood trees, replace with cypress trees and you wouldn’t know the difference.”
Bernie Orsi – Photo Credit: www.orsifamilyvineyards.com
Bernie’s father began his foray into the wine business in the 1950s when he made wine in the alleys of San Pedro; Bernie’s job was to clean the press.The years ensued and in 2012, Bernie Orsi teamed up with Dick Schultz, seasoned winemaker who worked at Navarro Vineyards in 1996 and assumed the role as a part time lab technician at Scharffenberger Cellars. After stints at Quivira, Gary Farrell, Pelligrini and Merry Edwards, he became the Winemaker at Everett Ridge Winery in 2003. Now, the Orsi-Schultz duo are a team dedicated to crafting notable, exclusive wines that aren’t available elsewhere. Dick Schultz oversees every step of the winegrowing and winemaking process and adheres to sustainable strategies that include leaf removal, hand-picking, hand-sorting and destemming.
The varietals we offer have been chosen for their connection to our family, originating from all parts of Italy, and the connection of our estate soil to that of Italy’s similar growing climates and elevations. Rather than a large production of a few wines, we prefer to offer small lots of a breadth of Italian flavors suitable for any and every occasion… each lot unique, artisanal and memorable. We feel wines should be experiential, displaying a range of personalities and flavors to enhance and reflect the gatherings in which they are enjoyed. Orsi Family Vineyards
In total, 11 varietals, grown as an homage to family roots (and for our enjoyment), are cultivated at Orsi Family Vineyards. It was a pleasure to taste four wines, each of which was a delicious treat. When you’re looking for a wine that’s unique and one that will start a fascinating conversation, consider the following selections.
Orsi 2018 Biancolella d’Ischia ($26) is a unique variety originally from the island of Ischia, located off the coat of Campania, the birthplace of the Orsi family’s paternal grandmother, Filomena. It was a gift to taste this fresh, fruit-forward wine of Biancolella, grown on less than an acre on the estate and believed to be the only planting of the variety in California. Intense aromas of caramel, hazelnut and spice led to a broad palate profile rife with mouthwatering acidity and flavors of caramel, honey and stone fruit. Pour a glass to complement a summer garden salad or light appetizers.
Sangiovese is the largest planted variety in Italy, but not in California. Of the approximately 1500 acres of Sangiovese planted in the state, the Orsi family is responsible for almost two. Orsi 2015 Sangiovese ($28), an exceptional wine bursting with aromas and flavors, should be on everyone’s table for pairing with a favorite Italian dish or with a platter of hard cheeses and cured sausages. On the nose, I found elements of herbs, earth, dried red berries, wood and smoke. Medium yet sturdy tannic structure and food friendly acidity framed notes of ripe red fruit, black cherries, herbs, leather, tobacco leaf and oak… Unique, delicious, ever-so-satisfying is this wine.
Savory at its core is Orsi 2014 Sagrantino ($34), a wine of a variety native to Umbria in central Italy, yet cultivated in an estate vineyard of less than one acre – only 90 cases were produced. This wine boasted an “old world” style and was expressive from the first whiff to the last sip. Aromas of dried red fruit, herbs, spice and leather led to flavors of espresso, blueberries, black olives, anise, spice and blackberries. Sculpted tannins and bright acidity helped create a full bodied wine of depth, elegance and complexity. The finish was lingering… and honestly, the Orsi 2014 Sagrantino was even more delicious the day after opening when it was paired with savory polenta and braised beef.
