Take your sparkling wine adventure to a higher level. Drink those from Trento DOC in Trentino, a mountainous region in the northeastern corner of Italy. With high altitude Alpine air that is as fresh and pure as we’ll ever breathe and vistas that go on for miles, the sparkling wines produced there are those to find for an affordable, delicious alternative to Champagne. Trentodoc, a collective trademark of 48 sparkling wine producers, has as its signature elements not only the terroir but the method of production, known as Metodo Classico, the same process used in Champagne.
I was invited to Spiaggia in Chicago to taste 11 wines from Trentodoc and to pair each with traditional dishes. Thanks to the expertise of Sommelier Rachael Lowe who led our group through the tasting, I discovered wines that offer a range of styles, from delicate to bold, a palate profile that had the ability to complement a variety of fare and a story of perseverance and passion of Giulio Ferrari, considered “a symbol for the international sparkling wine sector.”
During his study trips over a half century ago, young winemaker Giulio Ferrari from the Istituto Agrario di San Michele all’Adige noticed that the area of Trentino, stretching from Lake Garda to the Dolomites and boasting a broad range of climates, was quite similar to that of Champagne. Upon returning from his many experiences, Ferrari began to produce the first bottles of sparkling wine using the
Metodo Classico process, whereby the second fermentation occurs in the bottle. The first planning of Chardonnay seedlings led to other producers in the 1960s doing the same until 1984 when the Istituto Trento Doc was founded to “protect the quality, origin, method and spread of this wine.” The
Metodo Classico wines of Trentino were the first in Italy and one of the first internationally to obtain DOC status in 1993.
Grapes cultivated in Trentodoc include Chardonnay and Pinot Nero and to a lesser extent, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Meunier. Soils of the vineyards are of volcanic, fluvial and glacial deposit, limestone, calcareous on red Trentino rock, or sand. Grapes are harvested by hand, the base wine is obtained and, at the end of the process, Trentodoc sparkling wines exhibit bright, fragrant aromas, intriguing flavors, vibrant acidity and tiny bubbles, just as persistent as Giullio Ferrari himself.
“The essential steps of Metodo Classico follow. Yeasts and sugars are added to the base wine and the bottle is sealed and left to rest. The ageing process, which varies from 15 months (for a Brut and at least 24 months for a Millesimato) to at least 36 months for a Riserva, begins; at this stage, second fermentation leads to the formation of C02. Following this, the bottle is placed head down on pupitres (characteristic wooden trestles in the French sparkling wine tradition) and regularly riddled (remuage) to gently move its content. At this point, the wine in the neck of the bottle (where dead yeast sediment has collected) is frozen. Then the sediment is removed and replaced with a secret mixture of high-quality wine and sugar, which contributes to the very important character of each Trentodoc wine and is selected each time by the winemaker. After sealing the bottle with the cork and giving it the metal wire cage and the label, Trentodoc is now ready to be tasted!” Excerpt from Trentodoc.com
Each of the 11 wines from Trentodoc tasted at Spiaggia was exceptional, but naturally I had my favorites!
Every sip of Trentodoc Cantina D’Isera 1907 Brut NV, of 100% Chardonnay and cultivated on soils of volcanic, fluvial and glacial deposit, was rife with stone fruit and citrus, a delightful way to hone the palate for more tastes! The fragrant, fresh and savory Trentodoc Moser 51,151 Brut NV of 100% Chardonnay was aged in 80% stainless steel and for 20% in oak (for 6 months). With its intriguing notes of yeast, almonds and hazelnuts on the nose and palate, the strong Maso Martis Brut Bio NV, of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Nero aged in stainless steel, was a versatile complement to our first course, a charcuterie plate with cheese offerings, pickles, seasonal preserves and focaccia.
My choice for the antipasti course was a unique and flavorful Kale and Cauliflower salad with hen of the woods, bagna cauda, roasted cauliflower, almonds and Pecorino Romano shavings. Among my favorite pairings was
Trentodoc Altemasi Brut Millesimato 2013 of 100% Chardonnay grown on fluvio-glacial soils of mainly limestone. Complex with salinity, citrus and peach, this balanced wine was elegant and notable.
With the primi course of Campanelle pasta with roasted mushroom, thyme and Parmigiano Reggiano, my palate was enthralled with
Trentodoc Cesarini Sforza Riserva 1673 Extra Brut 2010. This 100% Chardonnay was cultivated in vineyards on sandy, loose soil rich in porphyry and aged in 80% stainless steel and 20% in wood for six months. Elegant and sophisticated, the wine was fruit forward with depth and richness, a mouthwatering pairing to the savory pasta dish.
Dessert was a variety of house-made gelato and Italian cookies from which to choose, a perfect opportunity to have another sip of the sparkling wines! Once I returned home, I continued the delicious tasting with a few sips of
Trentodoc Altemasi Brut,
sent to me as a sample a few weeks earlier. Of 100% Chardonnay grown on fluvio-glacial, mainly limestone soil, and aged in stainless steel tanks, this affordable selection (only $24!) offered aromas of stone fruit, citrus and pears, mouthwatering acidity, fine bubbles and a crisp and lively palate of herbs, juicy apples, lemons and lime.
Trentodoc sparkling wines are affordable, aromatic and delectable. They should be as high on your shopping list as the Alpine mountains in Italy whenever you’re ready for an impressive sparkling wine guaranteed to delight.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
