Meet the Winemaker – Domingos Soares Franco of José Maria da Fonseca   

Any aficionado who knows their Portuguese wines is familiar with Periquita, the first bottled wine produced and sold in that country in 1850 by the José de Sousa Winery. This historic family winery, now in its 8^th generation, was established in 1834 and purchased by José Maria da Fonseca in 1986, an action that heralded an opportunity for the Soares Franco family to continue its rich heritage, as it moves forward towards the future. Just recently, I had the opportunity to have lunch in Chicago with Domingos Soares Franco, Vice President and Senior Winemaker at José Maria da Fonseca, now in his 40^th vintage of winemaking. During that tasting, I learned that these iconic wines, from a brand that is one of the leaders in Portuguese wine production and sales of table and fortified wines, continue to be a delicious and intriguing representation of the country’s premium wines.

Domingos Soares Franco explained that the use of amphorae vessels, a traditional winemaking technique begun by the Romans over 2000 years ago, is important to the family as one way to keep its heritage alive. The winery, located in Setúbal, is equipped with 114 clay amphorae used for fermentation and the underground Alibaba cellars contain these vessels and two open presses for stomping the grapes. (Oak barrels are used, too.) José Maria da Fonseca uses grapes from vineyards in a variety of locations throughout Portugal; approximately 650 hectares are under vine. Annual production is around one million cases (60% reds, 25% whites, 5% muscatel and 10% roses) with 80% of the wines exported to over 70 countries.

“Consistency of quality is paramount,” shared Domingos Soares Franco, given the large volume of wine produced. He wants to “pay homage to tradition while staying current with new technology and strategies.” The family and winemaking team are constantly striving to offer exceptional wines without compromising the familiar style that consumers crave.

At Avec, one of my favorite Chicago restaurants due in part to the chef’s uncanny ability to craft a creative menu that pairs with wines from around the globe, a tasting of five magnificent selections from José Maria da Fonseca was accompanied by shared plates. As our first course of wood oven roasted beets with spring peas, quinoa tabbouleh, berbere pecans and rose, charred carrots with black harissa, whipped feta and crisp wild rise dukkah and chicken liver crostini with rhubarb mostarda and mint was served, wines were poured.

Our first was José de Sousa 2017 ($19.99), a blend of 58% Grand Noir, 22% Trincadeira and 20% Arogonês cultivated in Alentejo. Balanced with bright acidity, soft tannic structure and notes of black cherries, juicy plums and dark fruit compote, the wine was a delight to sip with the first course. A small portion of the wine was fermented in clay amphorae, after which it rested for 9 months in French and American oak barrels. The remaining juice was fermented in stainless steel tanks.

The classic Periquita Reserve 2017 ($14.99) is of 56% Castelão, 22% Touriga Nacional, 22% Touriga Francesa grapes grown in the Setúbal Peninsula. Ever so balanced with notes of earth, red fruit and spice, Domingo Soares Franco suggested that this wine has the ability to age for another 1-2 years. Fermentation lasted for around 7 days during which the grapes maintained full skin contact. Afterwards, the wine was aged for 8 months in new and used French and American oak barrels.

For pairing with the next course of “deluxe” focaccia with taleggio cheese, ricotta, truffle oil and fresh herbs and wood fired chicken with hummus, zhoug, green garbanzo and seed cracker Fattoush, the elegant, smooth and fruit forward Domini Plus 2015 ($44.99) was offered. Consisting of 96% Touriga Francesa and 4% Touriga Nacional from 37 acres located in Douro Superior, I noted soft tannins, mouthwatering acidity and a round mouthfeel that were incredibly satisfying and a brilliant pairing with the chicken, in particular. Domingos Soares Franco stated that “I want the fruit to stand up and am using less and less oak in the wines. Oak should be just a support to the wine.” To that end, traditional fermentation was done with full skin contact; the resulting wine spent 10 months in new French oak barrels and has the ability to age up to 12 years. Only 500 cases per year are produced of the Dominis Plus… but not every year.

A creamy, savory cheese course of St. Agur from France, Omorro from Portugal and Vento d’Estate from Italy were served to not only cleanse our satisfied palates but as another opportunity for pairing with the three wines already in our glass.

As the vanilla bean cheese cake with candied pistachio and strawberry and sweet mezze consisting of caramel cashew squares, cinnamon sugar shortbread and cacao nib biscotti were offered, two signature wines from Jose Maria da Fonseca were poured.

Just introduced to the market is Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal 20 Years ($69.99) of 100% Moscatel from the region. After picking from the best lots, grapes were analyzed for their alcohol level in order to determine the ideal moment to add brandy that halts fermentation. The wine was aged in used oak only; no bottle aging was necessary thanks to natural oxidation. Aromas and flavors of almonds, walnuts, dried apricots, orange peel, dried figs and citrus were ahhhh-worthy… Also recently introduced is Alambre Moscatel de Setúbal 40 Years ($149.99), produced in the same manner as the 20 Years. Balanced and light with brilliant notes of caramel, crème brulee and nuts, this wine was a beautiful finale to a magnificent lunch with Domingos Soares Franco.

The perseverance, the will to do more, to create something new, to never forget our past.
We are already in the eighth generation of those who inspire us in our new creations. In ways of reaching farther. A Family of wines from different regions, different segments, but produced with the same care and passion. And that’s why it doesn’t make sense for us to talk only about varieties, awards, history, authenticity or quality. Two centuries take at least 200 more years to build. José Maria da Fonseca

During our time together, Domingos Soares Franco shared long ago words from his grandfather: “I built this for you. It’s your turn to build for the future.” And this is exactly what exceptionally talented and wise winemaker, Domingos Soares Franco, is doing for the next generations.

Cheers! ~ Cindy