Deep Roots Sustain the Legacy at Hearst Ranch Winery

Ready to visit the Central Coast of California? Anytime is a perfect time! I was fortunate to schedule a trip to Paso Robles in the spring of this year to visit friends and family, sample the offerings of new-to-me restaurants and indulge in a bit of wine tasting (of course!). In particular, I was eager to return to Hearst Ranch Winery which opened a new tasting room in Paso Robles. Having had my first sip of their wines in 2012 at the winery’s San Simeon tasting room (click here), I was thrilled to have an opportunity to meet Debi and Jim Saunders, owners, Scotty Saunders, Regional Sales Manager, and Soren Christensen, Winemaker, who are working together to share the Hearst Ranch Winery story with exceptional wines.

On a gloriously sunny and warm afternoon, I arrived at 7300 North River Road in Paso Robles where the Hearst Ranch Winery tasting room at Saunders Vineyard (click here) opened its doors in 2018. With a California ranch vibe that this city girl loved, the building sported the Hearst Ranch “H slash” brand (from the Paso Robles Estrella Ranch of George Randolph Hearst Jr.) under the roofline, a comfortable and tastefully decorated outdoor patio and a cozy, elegant inside space with a wrap-around tasting bar and beautiful wooden seating. Clearly, I was in my comfort zone far away from the hustle and bustle of Chicago and I soaked in the views of rolling hills, the Salinas River, oak and olive trees, and vineyards through picture windows and French doors. When I noticed the La Hacienda Adobe Guest Home, their historic (and lovingly preserved) four-bedroom respite for anyone visiting Paso Robles wine country (click here) located across the street from the tasting room, I was ready to book my next trip with a bevy of friends. And I hadn’t even tasted the wines!

The backstory? Steve Hearst, great-grandson of the legendary William Randolph Hearst, and Jim Saunders, an accomplished businessman who was born and raised in Paso Robles, met at a Hearst Cancer Research fundraiser at which Saunders purchased a Hearst Ranch tour. The rest, they say, is history. Both Steve and Jim, each with generations of roots in the area, a philanthropic mindset and an entrepreneurial  bent, were inspired to establish a “legacy of quality”, as Steve Hearst has stated. But how?

Collectively, their shared vision on sustainable agriculture, resource protection and historical preservation brought Hearst Ranch Winery to fruition. These men have fostered a friendship and an enduring devotion to their community. The fruit from California’s Central Coast vineyards is among the finest in the world. Blend in the talent of our winemaker and you get Hearst Ranch wines, exhibiting the excellence that is a testimony to the “Legacy of Quality” – synonymous with the Hearst tradition. Hearst Ranch Winery

I was ready to explore all that Hearst Ranch Winery had to offer. With a glass of 2017 Glacier Ridge Chardonnay in hand (see review below), Scotty Saunders drove me to the top of the hill, at 800 feet elevation, for sweeping views and a tour of the Saunders Vineyard. He explained that after soil testing and site evaluation in the early 1990s, his parents, Debi and Jim Saunders, found that their dream of owning and farming their own vineyard could be realized. The soils of clay and loam on south and west facing hills and the meso-climate of east Paso Robles were optimal for cultivating wine grapes, in particular Syrah and Petite Sirah.

After the fascinating tour with Scotty, we settled in at the tasting room where Jim Saunders offered a genuine welcome (and another glass of wine). Over swirls and sips of luscious Hearst Ranch Winery selections, he shared, among other things,  that there are several different soils on the property: clay, sandy clay loam, stone, gravel, chalk and rock. He’s hoping for “roots that will grow deeper” and is taking steps to make that happen with technology and innovation.

Through the years, Tempranillo, Malbec and Petit Verdot were successfully grafted to established Cabernet Sauvignon vines and, as just one result, Hearst Ranch Winery is producing award winning wines from these varietals. Currently grown at Saunders Vineyard are Tempranillo, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; a parcel of Carmenére has been planted, too. The property is comprised of 300 acres of which 65 acres are under vine and approximately 15K bottles per year are produced.

Winemaker Soren Christensen, who brought fifteen years of winemaking experience to Hearst Ranch Winery when he joined the team in 2015, stopped by for a brief visit. Soren explained that he “isn’t afraid to produce a wine on the softer side” and prefers to show the “expression of the grape.” The wines I swirled and sipped reflected his signature style with sophistication and grace.

Remember the Chardonnay that Scotty offered before our drive to the vineyards? This chilled glass of 2017 Glacier Ridge Chardonnay ($25), of grapes cultivated in Monterey County, was incredibly balanced. Chalky minerality and citrus notes were vibrant on the nose while snappy acidity bolstered delicious flavors of juicy golden apples, lemon rind and the slightest hint of oak. Vineyard views and petting winery dogs (this one is named Itchy!) are always memorable with a glass of wine, of course!

Named after Julia Morgan, the nation’s first prominent female architect who also designed Hearst Castle and oversaw its construction in the early 1900s, Rosé Julia 2018 ($22) is a well-designed blend of Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Tempranillo grown in mostly estate vineyards in Paso Robles. Aged in stainless steel, the rosé was refreshing, clean and bright thanks to brilliant acidity and elements of juicy red berries, green grass after a gentle rain, tropical fruit and a thread of limestone-driven minerality.

A thoughtful, intelligent winemaker knows how to craft an exceptional wine and Soren Christensen is no exception. The Three Sisters Cuvée White 2017 ($22) is a focused mélange of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Picpoul Blanc and Marsanne, traditionally a blend of the Northern Rhone in France, from grapes grown in Paso Robles. Named after the three highest peaks on the Hearst Ranch (as well as for Debi Saunders and her two sisters), I found aromas of yellow flowers, a haystack warmed by the sun and stone fruit. Rich flavors of hazelnuts, dried apricot, peach pit and brioche, all of which were braided with mouthwatering acidity, were incredibly satisfying on the palate. The wine was aged in 10% French oak (used only once prior) and 90% neutral oak. Although Soren explained that it has the ability to age for around five years, I doubt you’ll let that happen!

You may want to consider the Three Sisters Cuvée Red 2016 ($24) your favorite everyday red wine… and it begs for a slice or two of your favorite pizza as a delectable pairing! A balanced blend of Syrah, Grenache, Petite Sirah and Mourvèdre aged in 10% new French oak and 90% neutral oak, I appreciated its food friendly acidity and ripe dark fruits on both nose and palate. On the nose, black plums, hint of anise and leather were an enticing introduction to what was next… flavors of cinnamon, cloves, cranberries and pomegranates that were provided a firm foundation by well-integrated tannic structure.

Another go-to wine for any occasion (tonight?) is the 2016 Red Wine Randolph ($25) named after William Randolph Hearst himself. Easy drinking with aromas and flavors that captivate, each variety, Malbec, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles, was chosen for its ability to offer unique characteristics. From bright fruit notes and vibrant acidity (Malbec) to dark, plush fruit (Zinfandel) to gentle tannins (Tempranillo) to body and complexity (Petite Sirah) to a velvet, lingering finish (Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2016 Red Wine Randolph is waiting for a juicy burger (Hearst beef, by the way!) still sizzling from the grill as a mouthwatering pairing.

Petite Sirah fans (and any wine aficionado who craves a soft, supple wine) will be mesmerized with the 2016 Petite Sirah Pergola ($35) comprised of estate grown grapes. Gentle and easygoing on the nose and palate, I noted aromas of lilac, wisteria and blueberries. Flavors of blueberry compote, plum jam and warm brioche were framed with firm tannins and bright acidity. Aged in 10% new American oak, 10% new French oak and 80% neutral oak, this sophisticated wine will offer depth and richness to any discerning palate.

A well-crafted Tempranillo that’s not from Spain is often difficult to find, but I discovered a glorious, on-point example at Hearst Ranch Winery. The 2016 Tempranillo Chileno ($35) of 100% Tempranillo grown on the estate was exactly what I had been craving. Enticing aromas and luscious flavors of red cherries, dried red fruit, vanilla and a touch of smoke led to a lingering, rich finish. Bright acidity and sophisticated tannins provided structure for this exceptional wine that was aged in 10% new French oak, 5% new American oak and 85% neutral oak. (By the way, 2016 is the first vintage of this wine made entirely of Tempranillo.)

When Jim Saunders suggested that he open a bottle of 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon “Proprietor’s Reserve” ($105), I was more than willing to have a few sips. Offered to wine club members only, this highly rated selection received 94 points from Robert Parker… and I could taste why. On the nose, rich and luscious black fruits and roasted coffee led to flavors of vanilla, black cherries, mocha latte and juicy blackberries that were enveloped in vibrant acidity and firm, structured tannins. Complex and elegant, the wine was a blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot and Merlot as additions, all from Paso Robles vineyards on rocky limestone soils. Aged in 100% new French oak, this wine is a brilliant expression of what Paso Robles terroir and winemaking expertise at Hearst Ranch Winery offer fortunate winelovers.

When you plan your Paso Robles wine country trip, visit Hearst Ranch Winery where roots, literally and figuratively, grow deep. Explore its legacy of quality and appreciate Debi and Jim Saunders’ devotion to the land and the region with every sip.

Cheers! ~ Cindy