Berryessa Gap – A Story of Heritage from Rootstock to Bottle

With farming roots from those in both Spain and Germany, the connection of Berryessa Gap to the terroir in Winters, California located in Yolo County runs deep. In order for a group of wine writers to learn the story of this winery and taste a few wines produced (sent as samples), Robert Larsen of The Larsen Projekt offered each of us an invitation to participate in an online chat with Nicole Salengo, Berryessa Gap’s winemaker since 2013. Early in the conversation, her passion about the potential of the area’s terroir and expertise in producing well-priced, delicious wines were obvious. I’ve been eager to share a bit of the story.

Considering themselves “immigrants, pioneers, farmers and entrepreneurs” (and rightly so), Dan Martinez Sr., a first-generation farmer born of Spanish immigrants, cultivated apricots, almonds, prunes and walnuts in Winters. In 1969, he collaborated with Ernest Peninou, San Francisco winemaker and wine historian, to develop Yolo Hills Viticulture Society, a rootstock nursery business that supplied University of California Davis-sourced rootstock which would later become grown in Napa, Sonoma and elsewhere.

This endeavor continued until 2000 when Dan Martinez Jr. and Santiago Moreno, business and farming partner, “purchased the Coble Ranch at the crest of the rolling hills overlooking Berryessa Gap – a local visual landmark seen for miles around” and a land that had never been cultivated to vineyards. Thanks to a terroir that is similar to the hot and dry climate of the Mediterranean, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Barbera, Malbec, Durif,, Albarino, Verdojo and Sauvingon Blanc, among others, are grown. Now, the Coble Ranch is the estate vineyard from where Berryessa’s Gap’s grapes are sourced. Martinez Orchards continues to thrive as well. Their grapevine rootstock is sold throughout California. For more about the fascinating family history of Berryessa Gap, please click here.

The site of Berryessa Gap Vineyards commands this view, overlooking literally a gap between the hills, east of Lake Berryessa. Here stands a very large and stately oak tree, thought to be around 300 years old. Surrounding this fine oak tree are the rolling vineyards which produce distinctive wines of the region, planted with rootstock grown only by Martinez Orchards. The area surrounding the Berryessa Gap winery is some of the best agricultural land in the nation.  Located just 30 miles from Sacramento and just 60 miles from San Francisco, Winters is also home to the popular Putah Creek recreational area. Berryessa Gap

During our chat, the group tasted, compared notes and appreciated each sip of three wines from Berryessa Gap.

Just delicious with my dinner of grilled vegetables and freshly caught fish was the Berryessa Gap 2018 Sauvignon Blanc ($24) from grapes cultivated in Yolo County located 40 miles east of the Berryessa Gap tasting room. Of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine was aged in stainless steel for 5 months and stirred sur lie; 270 cases were produced. On the nose, aromas of lightly grilled pineapple, juicy green apple, pear, lemon, and white peach were delightful. Herbal notes, minerality and lively acidity were predominant on the palate and the snappy, fruit and herb filled finish lingered.

From Yolo County, the Berryessa Gap 2018 Rosé ($19) is a luscious blend of Grenache, Zinfandel and Barbera of which 425 cases were produced. With the area’s high elevation, rich soil, plethora of microclimates and the influence of Lake Berryessa, the elements of the appellation coupled with the influence of the winemaker were prime factors affecting the quality of this wine. The rosé was made using the saignée, a method that involves “bleeding” off the juice after limited (usually just a few hours) contact with the skin of the grape. The juice from the three varieties “cold settled” for three days then was inoculated with a proprietary yeast blend and fermented in barrels at cool temperatures. After fermentation, the wine was aged sur lie in neutral French oak for 5 months before blending and bottling. Light in the glass and refreshing on the nose, I discovered bright aromas of red fruit and a hint of salinity. The palate burst with snappy acidity, notes of rich red cherries, pomegranate, strawberries and white peaches. Flavorful appetizers and salads paired with a good friend will make each sip of the Berryessa Gap 2018 Rosé that much more lovely.

The Berryessa Gap 2018 Chardonnay ($27) is from the Antonio Mountain Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap appellation. Only 500 cases of this intriguing 100% Chardonnay were produced. Fermented and aged in new and neutral French oak barrels, I found aromas of fresh hyacinth, lemon curd, juicy apples and vanilla. On the palate, moderate acidity bolstered notes of pineapple, ripe peaches and nuts that led to a soft, balanced finish. The 2018 Chardonnay was fermented in new and neutral French oak barrels after which the wine was aged for 5 months in stainless steel and stirred sur lie to enhance structure and body. During that time, a full malolactic conversion occurred. Enjoy a glass of the Chardonnay with herbed roasted chicken and risotto for a lovely pairing.

Although I haven’t had the opportunity to visit, I look forward to doing so. In 2005, the winemaking production facilities were expanded and relocated to the Tufts Ranch fruit packing warehouse, two miles from Winters; a tasting room is located in downtown Winters, too. At Berryessa Gap, the family’s “farming and viticulture heritage with roots in Northern California wine country are brought to each glass – from rootstock to bottle”.

Cheers! ~ Cindy