Each of us has a favorite style of wine or one that’s a go-to choice on a wine list. One friend of mine prefers the sweetness of Sauterne to the dry style of a Pinot Gris. My husband will always choose a rich, bold Cabernet instead of a lighter style of Pinot Noir and a dear college buddy will ask for an oaked Chardonnay instead of one that has been deemed “crisp.” The varied preferences of consumers and range of styles of our favorite beverage are just a few elements that make my “job” as a wine writer absolutely thrilling.
But consider this. When a tasting room associate is leading you through a selection of wines that are oaked or when you read wine notes in an article, do you think about the type of oak barrel used for ageing as an indicator of quality or impetus to purchase? Of course, not all wines are aged in oak. But for those that are, it may be a good idea to give it some thought.
Why Oak Barrels?
Since the Roman times, the use of oak in winemaking has been exercised. Originally thought of as storage vessels, winemakers discovered that the porous properties of the wood allowed an amount of oxygenation and evaporation of the wine to occur; however, this amount didn’t ruin the wine. Evaporation resulted in a wine with more intense flavors and aromas and the scant amount of oxygen softened the tannic structure. The rest is history!
French oak barrels at Chateau Bonnet in Beaujolais
Oak Barrels and Toasting
Oak barrels are made by coopers who have cut wood into long, narrow pieces termed staves. Once seasoned, staves are heated so that they can be bent to form the shape of the barrel. Steaming the staves is an inexpensive option, but most coopers toast the staves by exposing them to a flame. As you may expect, more exposure to the flame results in a higher amount of toast and more powerful flavors transferred to the wine itself.
There are five degrees of toast levels according to World Cooperage, maker of oak barrels and a helpful site for my research. Light toasting results in enhanced structure and subtle notes of toast. Medium toasting offers soft caramel notes accented by toasted bread. Medium long toasting results in a wine with supple tannins and accentuated fruit complexity whereas medium plus toasting suggests sweet cream with notes of vanilla and brown sugar. Finally, heavy toasting gives a rich mocha character and accentuates darker fruits in the wine.
One of the decisions of the winemaker and others on the team is to decide how much barrel toasting is warranted. Other considerations in choosing barrels are their size and age. If a barrel is new and small and the wine spends a fair amount of time within, intense oak flavors will be evident. Wine aged for a short amount of time in a large barrel will exude more subtle notes of oak. An oak barrel is identified as “neutral” after four or five years of use since the flavors are dramatically reduced. Another crucial decision? How long should the wine age in the selected barrel?
Patrick Fallon, Cellar Master at Jordan Wineries, explains…
Types of Oak Barrels
Oak wood contains tannins (a vital factor in the ageing of the wine), vanillin (released during oak lignin, an organic polymer that makes the wood rigid), cellulose that holds the wood together and wood sugars. These elements, too, may affect the flavor of wine to varying degrees.
The two major and most popular types of oak barrels are of French oak and American oak. Many wineries use Eastern European (Slovenian and Hungarian) oak, too, however.
French oak has the highest tannin content of all of the oak types. The wood is relatively porous and demands hand splitting. It lends aromatic sweetness, subtle flavors of cinnamon, chocolate and crème brulee, spice and satin-like tannins to a wine; French barrels seem to impart elegance and a creamy quality to wine. Although the cost of a French oak barrel is expensive, many winemakers feel that the outlay is justified thanks to the final result in the glass.
French oak barrels at Pelletiere Estate Vineyard and Winery in Paso Robles
American oak is less expensive and is readily available; it’s structurally sturdier than its French counterpart and is able to be cut using a machine. Notes of intense vanilla, roasted coffee, toast, wood sugars and coconut may be found in a wine aged in American oak.
American oak barrel at Hearst Ranch Winery in Paso Robles
Eastern European (Slovenian and Hungarian) Oak is similar to French oak and is expensive due to low yields. However, it has less tannin and offers a range of flavors depending on the level of toasting. Vanilla, coffee and chocolate may be noted after medium toast whereas vanillin, black pepper and leather may be found with heavy toasting.
Hungarian oak barrel at Hearst Ranch Winery in Paso Robles
Due to the range of barrel types, sizes and age of the barrels and toasting levels, winemakers are able to tweak the aromas and palate profile of their wines during the process in order to make each selection in the portfolio unique. One of my pleasures is walking in a winery’s barrel room and inhaling its glorious aromas, then taking note of types of barrels, their age, size and more. Another thrill? Enjoying a pour, appreciating the winemaker’s skill, and purchasing a favorite wine to re-visit at home.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
Walter Holmann
Cindy Rynning