When I received an invitation to attend a walk-around tasting of wines from a stunning portfolio of iconic Burgundy producers, I immediately responded with a resounding “yes”! What wine lover wouldn’t? John Terlato, Vice Chairman of Terlato Wine Group, is now importing this stellar portfolio under the division CRU Selections. To celebrate, wine industry folk from Chicago and surrounding areas gathered at Smith-The Loyalist one afternoon to taste, talk, and bestow accolades upon selections from Domaine Michel Niellon, Domaine Ramonet, Domaine Roumier, Chateau de La Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet.
Impressed by all of those with whom I conversed, I was particularly intrigued by Edouard Labet, a member of the sixth generation of winemakers and who, along with his father, manages two family estates, Chateau de la Tour and Domaine Pierre Labet. Young, gregarious and excited to share stories of the wines and his family, we agreed to keep in touch. Following is Edouard Labet’s reflections about his family, his role in the business, wines produced and so much more.
Edouard Labet
Grape-Experiences: Edouard, could you share your family’s history and current positions in the wine business?
Edouard Labet: My father and myself are managing two family estates: Chateau de la Tour, the only winery located in the Clos de Vougeot itself, and Domaine Pierre Labet.
Farmed since 1100, the Chateau de la Tour has been part of the family since 1889, after my ancestor became one of the six buyers who acquired the vineyards. In fact, I am the 6th generation of winemakers within the family having been involved in viticulture since precisely 1492…
The vineyard comprises a large parcel south of the Chateau, at the heart of the Clos, a prime plot at the top close to Grand-Echézeaux, with a last holding of a few rows of vines at the bottom of the Clos, on heavier soil. Chateau de la Tour produces two wines: Clos-Vougeot and Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes (eldest vines planted in 1910). A third cuvee, “Hommage a Jean Morin”, is released, only in exceptional vintages, since 2010 by doing a very precise picking during the harvest on each of the old vines.
The origin of the Domaine Pierre Labet dates back to the 15th century in Beaune. The headquarters of the estate are located in the “Bastion Notre Dame”, a fortification which was built in 1642 on the battlements surrounding the city of Beaune where my grandparents lived. The Domaine represents 10 hectares with vineyards located in Meursault, Beaune, Savigny les Beaune, Chorey les Beaune and Gevrey-Chambertin
My father, Francois Labet, has managed the two Domaines since 1984 with the same philosophy and converted the vineyards to organic viticulture in 1992 and biodynamie since 2015. The entire vinification, winemaking and barrel ageing take place at Chateau de la Tour. We are working in whole-cluster since 1987 and the wines are aged 18 months in custom-made barrels from one sole cooper. The are no clones as only massale selection is used.
Edouard Labet: The Clos de Vougeot is a very special place, the center of the UNESCO legacy that represents around 50 hectares for more than 80 owners. Therefore, there is a big diversity inside the Clos, both in terms of viticulture, age of vines and winemaking. Each bottle from each producer is different and that’s what makes the scope of Burgundy so wide.
The plot of Clos de Vougeot used to be “cold” at the bottom of Combe d’Orveaux, making earthy, “monky” wines, wheareas since change in climate, the wines are now shining and becoming soft as velvet.
Undoubtedly, the Clos de Vougeot is historic. The Confrery des Chevaliers du Tastevin lives among the wall of the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot where Burgundy spirit ceremonies are organized.
Edouard Labet: It truly is a family story. As a young kid, I was spending a lot of time with my grandfather, Pierre Labet (founder of the Domaine Pierre Labet). We were very close. He taught me everything, from driving cars to chopping wood, going for endless walks in the vineyards, learning the foundation of the vines.
Since I was a little boy, I’ve joined and traveled with my father during tastings, in France and abroad, by helping him to pour wines and greet customers. It was a first glimpse that helped me understand what and why we were doing beside doing the work in Burgundy. I’ve always seen my father traveling and I remember this trip in the US that we did together around 12 years ago.
Edouard Labet: My father and myself see eye to eye on everything. We share the same offices, our desks are next to each other and all decisions are taken after the approval of both of us. We trust each other in the same way we trust the people that are working for us.
Grape Experiences: What is your formal or informal wine education?
Edouard Labet: I’ve always known that I’d come back one day, but to me, it was very important to “earn” my seat at the family Domaines. This is how I decided to step away from the world of wine by attending Business School and studying in Australia. After graduation, I started to work in the spirits industry, for Pernod Ricard, in Paris and then in Sweden for a year.
Even though my studies were not wine related, I seemed to have always been connected to it one way or another. I worked as a wine advisor in a wine bar in Australia (besides my studies) and handled tastings and client meetings while in Strasbourg.
Each summer during my secondary and high school, I spent at least a month in the vineyards and the winery to learn the fundamentals of the job.
Since I am back at the Domaine, I balance my time. I’m 100% committed to winemaking during the harvest and vinification. Then, I split my time between the viticulture and the “commercial” and management side.
Even though I’ve spent some time in the vineyards learning from the people around me, I do not have any technical winemaking background yet. This is why I will start a training next year at the Wine University in Dijon.
Grape Experiences: Are there any new techniques or ideas you like to consider with regards to vineyard management?
Edouard Labet: Indeed, we are working in organic viticulture since 1992, and in biodynamic since 2015. Actually, the first thing we did together when I came back to the Domaine was to implement the certification process to be “legally” organic. As we work directly into the vineyards and see how the climate is changing, I am very much aware that we as winemakers need to keep going towards more sustainable viticulture.
We are constantly thinking about ways to improve. We have changed our pruning method lately as we have a very clear idea of how we want to lead the vines.
In many ways, we have not invented anything. Before the war, winemakers were working in organic viticulture as there were no pesticides or insecticides. Whole clusters are getting back on the main stage overall. We see many people coming back to this philosophy, but it’s something my father started to do in the late 80’s.
We see our viticulture and winemaking as a “mille-feuille” (like the cake that I am guessing you call Napoleon) of details. Not a year is similar, and we are constantly thinking on how we can improve ourselves. It is easy to make good wine but very difficult to make great wines.
Lately, I’ve seen, read about and tasted a few wines from different wine producers from all over the world that worked in “Vinification Integrale”. The structure of the wines was unbelievably different. I would love to experiment on small batch first and see what the wine gives.
Grape Experiences: How do you see the future of wine in Bourgogne with a new generation (yours!) at the helm?
Edouard Labet: There is indeed a new generation of winemakers that are willing to make things move forward. However, I think we are all very aware that we are very fortunate to be doing something we’re passionate about, and most importantly, that we remain very humble towards the “savoir-faire”. We have not invented anything, we are just using our common sense and like my father says, “We do not own our vineyards, we are just in between generations.”
Grape Experiences: What do you perceive as challenges you’ll have to face?
Edouard Labet: Global warming is real. In February this year, we had 20°C degrees in Burgundy which is unbelievable. New diseases, new insects that can arise with this kind of climate.
The life of a winemaker is cadenced by mother nature, and we are all relieved only when the harvest begins. I do believe we will have to adjust our ways of working.
Grape Experiences: What is the spirit of Bourgogne with regards to wineries that have been managed by the same family? Is there a sense of collegiality?
Edouard Labet: Overall, there is a big recognition for family estates run for generations. We belong to a group called “Domaines familiaux” including the 25 “top” family estates in the region. Our aim is to promote, protect and adapt ourselves to the new challenges that we are facing so we can help each other walk in the same direction.
Grape Experiences: Do you have siblings interested in being with the family business?
Edouard Labet: I have two sisters. One has been living in Los Angeles for quite some time now and the other is living in France. I also have many cousins on both the Labet and Dechelette families that could join the family business. We’ve been thinking about ways to involve other people from the family in the business. For example, my sister living in the US is taking some leads on the North American market. I also have cousins that are artistically very talented: I am trying to bring them on board for the design of new labels. As I said, it is a family matter.
Grape Experiences: Can you share some traditions or fun anecdotes about being raised in a winemaking family?
Edouard Labet: The common thought about babies in Burgundy drinking wines from birth is…completely false-haha! I do remember harvests with everyone from the family involved – my grandma and aunt cooking for the pickers, my sisters, cousins and myself picking the fruits in the vineyards and sorting out the grapes, my grandfather carefully reviewing the grapes dropped in the tanks. And my father of course managing the entire process!
After each family lunch and dinner, the youngsters were usually the ones leading the “chorale”, starting with a classical ban bourguignon and moving into traditional songs. We are not all living in Burgundy anymore but every gathering is a special moment for all of us.
Grape Experiences: Thank you, Edouard. Is there anything more you’d like to mention?
Edouard Labet: Jamais en vain, toujours en vin
I’ll let you and your readers investigate that quote!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
