On Genders and Generations in Beaujolais: Shoulder to Shoulder not Back to Back

Beaujolais is a fascinating region and one that should be explored. The discovery of exceptional wines, the distinctive landscape and the authentic, welcoming people were just a few revelations during my recent work trip there. Of note was the pervasive enthusiasm for the future of Beaujolais during each conversation I had with those from both genders and all generations.

With energy and excitement, a new cohort of proud vignerons have joined their elders in Beaujolais. This forward-thinking group of young women and men are ready to take the international perception of this region and the wines it produces to the highest level. Modern ideas in winemaking, classic methods of organic viticulture, new marketing strategies and a worldwide view of their place in the industry are paired with a genuine respect for the difficult work and perspectives of generations before them.

Complementing the zealous work of the Millennials are the vibrant women of Beaujolais. Those I had the good fortune to meet, ranging in age from their 20s to their 50s, have stepped out of the shadows of their predecessors and are now visible members of the industry. Each made it clear that their roles are not to be opposite to men. “We love men!” exclaimed Céline Vernus , co-owner of Château Moulin Favre, one evening during dinner. “We just want to work together and have more pronounced roles to advance the wines of Beaujolais.”

Charlotte Perrachon of Château Bonnet, located in the village of La Chapelle de Guinchay, is one example of someone doing just that. From a family with a winemaking history since 1630, she is the first woman officially recognized as a winemaker in the family. During my visit and tasting, Charlotte, who was pregnant with her first child, explained that her mother and grandmother have been crucial towards the work of her father and grandfather. They supported their husbands through traditional jobs in the home and in the case of her mother, with the administrative work of the Château. Charlotte stated that she and members of the younger generation “are more modern and do different things than in the past. We’re spending more time investing in new techniques and moving forward in many ways. The young generation travels to other regions, speaks English and has a global perspective, unlike our parent’s generation.”

Charlotte attended schools in the Mâconnais and Dijon where she studied oenology and viticulture after which she participated in harvest in Australia for 6 months before returning to her home. Now, she “works vinification like my grandfather, not father. I’m going back two generations and others are doing it too, because the wines are pure. My generation wants to work the soil with no chemicals. It’s more natural. It’s a big job that’s hard, but our grapes will taste different. I want to be a part of that.” Today, her father Pierre-Yves manages the estate with his wife Marie-Luce and Charlotte, the oenologist.

During my visit to Domaine Chasselay in Châtillon d’Azergues, Claire Chasselay was waiting with Cru Beaujolais wines and a few stories. Her family “received the land in January 1418 and have been growing grapes ever since.” Claire was proud to state that she is the first woman in the family to have the stature of “winegrower”, but was quick to add that her mother is the first to have been named “collaboratrice” by her father, Jean-Gilles. “He has always honored women and respects their work.” As a little girl, Claire “learned the correct method to prune… and why it should be done in that manner.” She was ultimately given the choice to work in the winery. “There was no pressure and I went to college with my brother, Fabien, since we were taught the same thing about wines and winemaking when we were young.” Claire is ready to “advance together” as part of a generation of young winemakers and as a woman in the industry, all of whom who “must stand shoulder to shoulder not back to back.”

 

One evening, I shared regional food, magnificent wines and lively conversation with five members of Elles & Beaujolais, an eclectic group of strong women who assume various roles in the wine industry. Their focus within the group is to “promote their love of the region and the wines of Beaujolais” through education and opportunity. Proving once again that women, no matter their age or what country they call home, have plenty in common, our conversations revolved around children, schools (the group is spearheading a hands-on science curriculum about the process of grape growing), husbands, boyfriends, work/life balance, health, food and Beaujolais wines with generous sides of laughter and strong opinions.

During our conversations, I asked each to consider how women are affecting the wine industry in Beaujolais.

Delphine d’Harcourt, Communications Director of Château de Montmelas, explained. “As you know, wine making has been, for a long time, considered by French wine makers as a job for males. But more and more women are trying to make their mark in order to prove to men that they are able to make good wines too – what a shame they have to prove it. For so long, women were here to help their husbands, but there was no official recognition for the help they gave or work they did. I think that is why young ladies now want to prove something and make their own wines different from what men have done. What is interesting is that little by little, another way of vinifying and expressing the gamay grape is appearing. I should say that female winemakers bring out a different face of Beaujolais wines, complementing the male face!”

Ghislaine DuPeuble, co-manager at Château des Pertonnières, agreed. “I do not think women are superior or better than men. I just think they are complementary to them. Indeed, they have a different sensitivity, which allows, hand in hand with men, to produce more balanced wines, and therefore even better.” Winemaker at Le Crêt de Bine, Florence Subrin-Dodille, believes that “diversity and inclusion enrich everything significantly. Women bring new ideas, refresh and modernize our appellation’s communication and image. From a technical perspective, women have our own style and taste that certainly influence our wine’s sensory qualities, depending how and what we feel and taste during the production and farming process. In my case, I am very involved in our organic and biodynamic culture and aim to go further in terms of biodiversity. In general, I think women feel more involved in everything related to quality of life and sustainability.”

Then again, women as consumers are making an impact in Beaujolais. Fabienne Vilain, owner of Château de Champrenard, remarked, “I believe that there’s no “taste of a woman”, but more and more wine purchases in the world are made by female consumers. Female winemakers and professionals leverage diversity across the wine industry to create, adapt and promote ideas to break new ground. We are able to talk about wine to all women without making the communication pink and girly.” Delphine d’Harcourt added that “Nowadays it is not rare to see a group of ladies having a glass of wine in a bar and talking about their tasting.”

Some had stories about their evolving roles. Ghislaine DuPeuble shared hers. “When I started more than 20 years ago at age 19, women in the world of wine were not recognized. It really took perseverance and energy to show, and especially to prove, that I had my place in this very masculine world. A man who takes over a vineyard does what he wants. We come to help him, give him advice and no one judges or criticizes him. On the other hand, a woman who takes over a vineyard is pointed out, she has to pay attention to her image, not to shake the customs too much, and above all she is not allowed to do “almost” or she is inevitably put in a catalog for dummies. Elles & Beaujolais allowed me to meet other women who are also facing similar problems. We feel less alone, are able to help, support and give each other a boost of energy. Unity makes strength! Today, I think I have made my place in this world and have proven my value to belong here. I am happy to live my passion and not just do a job. I am very touched when men, from Beaujolais or other wine regions, talk about my work or even ask me for advice. I am also happy that women can be recognized in the industry and that today things are easier for those who wish to work on a vineyard, in a winery or in the big world of wine.”

The impact of women in the Beaujolais wine industry continues to expand and a philosophy of men and women working together to produce better wines and to promote the region is being embraced. Women are assuming significant roles, a reflection of genders and all generations collaborating for a common goal. As Claire Chessaley stated, “We mustn’t work alone.”

Remember Charlotte Perrachon of Château Bonnet who was pregnant with her first child when we met? She recently gave birth to a baby girl, Alice, a new addition to a generation of women who promise to effect change in Beaujolais.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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