Looking Back, Looking Forward: A Chat with John Benish of Benessere Vineyards

In December 2011, three months after Grape Experiences went live, I was offered the opportunity to conduct my first interview with a member of the wine industry who lived only 20 minutes from my home. Thrilled to meet John Benish, owner of Benessere Vineyards, a small family-owned winery in St. Helena, I embraced the moment with a memorable lunch and tasting at a local Italian restaurant, a fitting venue for authentic conversation and food paired with Benessere estate wines of Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio.

A few weeks later, I wrote an article about the experience and subsequently traveled to Benessere Vineyards. There, I appreciated not only sips from their portfolio but entertaining and informative insights from members of the staff. In September of last year, almost 7 years later, I had another chance to talk with John at his office in the suburbs of Chicago. It was a gift to rekindle the friendship and learn about the changes and future plans at Benessere Vineyards since our initial conversation. Fate subsequently intervened.

Our interview in December 2011 was my first. Our interview September 2018 was his last. Sadly, John Benish passed away two weeks after our meeting and one day short of his 83^rd birthday. Following is a recap of our conversation.

John and his wife, Ellen, made the decision to purchase Benessere Vineyards after considering the ownership of a farm in Indiana. In John’s words, a “magical moment” in 1994 made it clear that they were meant to purchase the forty-two-acre property north of St. Helena in Napa Valley. The couple fell in love with the warmth of the people, the delicious food, the exceptional wines, and the land.  John and Ellen chose the name “Benessere”, an Italian word meaning “well-being” or “living the good life”, after a special trip to Italy in the late 1980s; both wanted to “convey the feeling of healthy living and grape growing”. Since its inception, their property has been an elegant and comfortable haven for family members and guests who appreciate good food, friendship and wine.

Steeped in history, this property was originally used as a cattle ranch, then dairy farm in the 1920s and 1930s before being converted into a thoroughbred horse ranch in the 1960s – complete with a racetrack at the front of the property.  By the mid-1970s, the property changed owners and a majority of the property was converted to vineyards.  You still see the stall doors from when the original barn was converted into a wine cellar. Prior to any formal ownership of the property, the local Native American tribe used obsidian found on the property to make arrowheads and tools.  On occasion, we still manage to find fragments of obsidian, reminding us of days past, in our aptly named ‘Black Glass Vineyard’. Benessere Vineyards

John Benish remarked that he craved for the “challenge to own a winery, although it was a lot of work”.  Clearly, though, as an extremely successful business owner in Chicago, he was never daunted by the amount of labor required to achieve. And that was a good thing. Upon purchasing the St. Helena property, John and Ellen restored the residences and winery and his team were required to replant all of the vines due to phylloxera, the aphid known for destroying vineyards. Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Zinfandel were planted.

Now, Benessere Vineyards boasts a total of 43 acres with 36 acres under vine with Winemaker Matt Reid at the helm of the process. They specialize in Italian varietals such as Pinot Grigio, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Muscat di Canelli. Benessere Vineyards is the only winery in Napa Valley cultivating Sagrantino and Aglianico, but Sangiovese is considered their “heart and soul”. John Benish remarked that the team at Benessere is “putting the most effort to find the best clone of Sangiovese in the Napa Valley – we want to bring respect to the grape”. He hired a consultant from Italy and amphora vessels are “coming soon”. With new technology in place in order to “keep up with the times” and a posse of “the right people who are trustworthy even when the boss isn’t there”, John Benish seemed at ease as he anticipated the future of Benessere Vineyards. He felt that the results of his business successes in Chicago and St. Helena should be shared with the next generation. Many of his adult children contribute to the management of Benessere Vineyards. The expectation is that they “work hard and continue what was started”.

Soon after our chat, latest releases from Benessere Vineyards were sent to me as samples.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($70) can be found on my table with rich pasta and succulent meat dishes. Although you could cellar this beauty for ten or more years, you won’t want to! Intense notes of dark cherries, chocolate, and cassis prevailed on the nose. With bright acidity and satin-like tannins, flavors of chocolate covered cherries, blueberries, dark plums, ripe red fruit, and vanilla led to a lingering finish… all were intriguing and delicious. My favorite takeaway was that this beautiful wine was just as memorable sipped with or without food.

Zinfandel lovers will appreciate every sip of the Zinfandel, Black Glass Vineyard 2016 ($42) especially with bites of their favorite burger still sizzling from the grill. What’s not to love about rich, dark red and black fruit aromas wafting from the glass? This 100% Zinfandel overdelivered on the palate with elements of smoke, meat, red berries, wood, and spice wrapped in a cloak of just-right acidity and velvet tannins.

Paired with homemade lasagna, the notes of the Phenomenon (Proprietary Red Blend) 2015 ($60) were luscious and incredibly satisfying. Of 31% Sangiovese, 31% Merlot, 25% Syrah, and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, delightful aromas of cherries, red fruit and spice were enticing. On the palate, I noted black cherries, vanilla, blackberries, plums, cocoa, and oregano framed with bright acidity and well-integrated tannins.

John’s Promise (Proprietary Red Blend) 2016 ($85) is named after John Benish himself. 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Aglianico are blended into this wine that was both powerful and sophisticated. With aromas of blueberries, plums, cherries, earth, and hints of white pepper, this magnificent choice is one to seek again and again. The layered, textured palate exuded notes of exotic spice, succulent red fruit, and touch of lavender framed with vibrant acidity and a firm yet soft tannic structure. The addition of Aglianico, an exclusive Benessere-cultivated variety in Napa Valley, was a flawless choice.

A brilliant finale (or starter!) to any meal is the Moscato 2017 ($25 for a 375 ml bottle). With residual sugar of 11%, the sweetness is a lovely complement with any fruit or light dessert or with your guests as they walk through the door. I craved the aromas and flavors of yellow flowers, jasmine, ripe peaches, dried apricot, and tropical fruit – quite special indeed.

John Benish was a man with vision, intelligence, humor and a thoughtful, kind presence. I loved our conversations. His legacy will certainly linger thanks to a firm foundation built at home, at work in Chicago, and at Benessere Vineyards.

And the wines are exceptional.

Cheers ~ Cindy