Every Zinfandel Tells a Story

When was your last glass of Zinfandel? Maybe this choice isn’t your first, but it should be. Once you discover its profile and realize that a quality Zinfandel pairs with so many favorite foods, you’ll be passionate about the variety like so many others. In general, a red Zinfandel is fruit forward with spice notes of boysenberries or touch of dried fruit, yet Zinfandel from old vines is truly serious and has the ability to stand the test of time; many are blends and almost all are aged in premium quality American oak barrels.

There are those who consider Zinfandel America’s heritage wine grape. DNA testing proves that the variety is originally from Croatia and a popular theory is that Zinfandel was brought to California in the 1850s by Agoston Haraszthy, an immigrant from Hungary. Then again, Charles Sullivan, a historian, showed evidence that Zinfandel arrived in California much earlier, as a “nameless vine” from the Schonbrunn imperial collection in Vienna. Another theory suggests that grape grower George Gibbs introduced the variety to his Long Island nursery in the 1820s and in 1829, the name “Zinfandel” appeared in a catalog of another nursery on the island. Its storied and debated American history aside, Zinfandel is a notable and successful grape variety in California.

Recently, I participated in a twitter “meet-up” sponsored by Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP), the promotional organization for the variety. With a few other passionate “Zin” lovers who also happen to be wine writers, I tasted and learned the stories of four high quality wines representing different regions of California: Dry Creek Valley, Alexander Valley, Contra Costa, and Lodi. Our hashtag for the chat was aptly deemed #ZinStories.

Our first wine was Pedroncelli Courage 2016 ($32) of 100% Zinfandel from the estate’s neighboring Faloni Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County. The vineyard from which the grapes in Courage are sourced is owned by a multi-generation grower family led by Dave and Dena Filoni and is located on the western side of Dry Creek Valley. Ed St. John of Pedroncelli Winery shared that the name “Courage” indicates “the confidence to act in accordance with one’s beliefs for four generations. It takes courage to be a farmer”. How true – the Pedroncelli family has been cultivating Zinfandel since 1906.

Aromas of bright red fruit such as cranberries, pomegranate, cherries, a hint of blueberries, and tingly spice teased my nose and I was ready for that first sip. Framed by bold but integrated tannins and lively acidity were notes of mint, earth, pepper, juicy blackberries, violets, cinnamon, cardamom, and cloves that were a path to a luscious finish. Aged for 16 months in American oak, this elegant and complex wine was a joy to taste.

Each sip of Alexander Valley Vineyards 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel ($45) was a brilliant addition to our tasting. Winemaker Kevin Hall chose 100% Zinfandel grapes from a single 55-year-old hillside Sonoma County Alexander Valley vineyard of “giant, gnarly old vines that are head trained and spur pruned, yielding small clusters with fewer grapes per vine”. Located on property that stretches from the banks of the Russian River to the hillsides of the Mayacamas Mountains, the diversity of the soil, elevations, exposures, and microclimates offer Kevin Hall a spectacular terroir from which to produce beautiful wine.

On the nose, I discovered elements of chocolate, spicy red fruit, plums, blueberries, and vanilla. With each sip, I savored enticing flavors of rich, dark fruit, spice, oak, stone fruit, and more chocolate, gift wrapped with elegant acidity and tannic structure. Ever so balanced, this full-bodied Zinfandel is one of note.

 

From Contra Costa County in the Bay Area, three 2015 Live Oak ($36) was an authentic example of ancient vine Zinfandel. Grapes sourced from the Live Oak vineyard, planted in 1885 by Italian immigrants, are recognized for their “massive concentration, silken texture, and signature core of luscious raspberry to boysenberry fruit”.

A field blend of 78% Zinfandel, 4% Mataro, 5% Carignane, 12% Petite Sirah, and 1% Alicante Bouschet, this soft and elegant example boasted satin-like tannins, just-right acidity and notes of raspberries, violets, boysenberries, and brambly density. And the name “three”? Winemaker Matt Cline wrote that “The dirt, the microclimate, and sustainable wine-growing (from vineyard to bottle) form the cornerstone of three. These critical elements are in every bottle we make”.

 

Having walked through the Mohr-Fry Ranch Zinfandel vines in Lodi a few years ago, I was intrigued by the Oak Farm Vineyards 2017 Zinfandel ($35). The history of the Mohr and Fry families began in 1855 when Cornelius Mohr left his current job to begin farming row crops of tomatoes, sugar beets, and wheat in Mt. Eden. His grand-daughter married Jeryl Fry, Sr. and both continued the farming operation in San Joaquin County in 1955. Ten years later, the Mohr-Fry family purchased Block 417 in Lodi, where the Zinfandel in our wine is sourced, and fifth generation family member, Bruce Fry now farms this block as well as others. Block 417 was the first vineyard in Lodi to be Lodi Rules Certified (2005) and Historical Vineyard Certified.

With a bit of history in each sip, I noted beautiful aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, sage, licorice, and violet bolstered with a lovely lift of acidity and structured tannins. Elegant and bright, this outstanding wine from Lodi, often termed the “Zinfandel Capital of the World”, was aged in French oak.

 

 

Be sure to check out the Zinfandel Advocates & Producers site for videos, interviews, and more fascinating information about America’s heritage wine grape. (Click here for the link.)

Now, what’s your “Zin story”?

Cheers! ~ Cindy