October is “Merlot Month” and I’m not ready for it to end. Of course, we can savor Merlot any day of the year, but I’ve loved this specific month dedicated to the celebration of one of my favorite noble grapes. Earlier, I received as samples ten Merlots from California and Washington. Each demonstrated the range of styles and price points, as well as their ability to pair with a number of favorite food choices (click here for my article about six of the Merlots received and luscious foods for pairing).
During my extremely pleasurable (as you can imagine) month-long journey, I tasted four Merlots sent to me from Novelty Hill and Januik in Washington. The two independent wineries, under the direction of Mike Januik, share not only a tasting room, but a production facility and private event venue in Woodinville, located close to Seattle. Mike founded Januik Winery in 1999 with the intention to “craft small scale wines from the state’s best vineyards”. He has been responsible for Novelty Hill’s wines, sourced primarily from the winery’s Stillwater Creek estate vineyard on the Royal Slope of the Frenchman Hills, since its first vintage in 2000. In fact, vineyards in the Columbia Valley and the Stillwater Creek vineyard are prime locations for cultivating Merlot found in Novelty Hill and Januik wines. With each sip, I understood why Merlot from Washington, especially those crafted by Mike Januik, has remained on every winelover’s radar.
Why is Columbia Valley a prime locale for Merlot? Located in eastern Washington and separated from Seattle’s maritime climate by the Cascade Mountains, the Columbia Valley is warm and dry. Summer temperatures are around the mid-80s and annual rainfall averages 6-8 inches. Because of its northern latitude, summer daylight hours are extended; in the fall, evening temperatures drop as much as 30-40 degrees and protect the grapes’ natural acidity, helping to create wines that are balanced.
Photo Credit: www.noveltyhilljanuik.com
Just as interesting as the Merlot I tasted, is the backstory of Mike Januik. He was named one of the world’s ten “Masters of Merlot” by Wine Enthusiast magazine and has had dozens of wines listed on Wine Spectator’s “Top 100” list. He holds a master’s degree in enology and viticulture from the University of California-Davis and has been making wine in the Columbia Valley since 1984. Mike was Head Winemaker at Chateau Ste. Michelle for ten years prior to staring Januik Winery.
What I found in the glass of each of four wines tasted, was an indication of Merlot’s adaptation to Washington terroir and Mike Januik’s expertise in winemaking. I look forward to visiting the Novelty Hill/Januik location in Woodinville and tasting more superlative wines as soon as I can.
Novelty Hill Stillwater Creek Vineyard Merlot 2015 ($28) – State wine critic and author Paul Gregutt named Stillwater Creek one of the state’s top 20 vineyards in 2010. Planting of the 245-acre site began in 2000 after an in- depth analysis of soil and weather patterns. Optimal site design and clonal selection ensued and “few vineyards in Washington can boast the wide array of clones used here, each carefully selected with specific vineyard blocks in mind”. On the nose of this gorgeous wine, aromas of earth, dark red and blue fruit, and a hint of chocolate were enticing. Layered and complex, notes of baking spice, rich red fruit, and black cherries were lifted by medium acidity and integrated tannins. Aged for 21 months in 85% French oak barrels and 15% American oak, my last sip lingered with texture and flavor.
Novelty Hill Merlot 2016 ($23) – Whereas the 2015 growing season was generally warm from the beginning to end, the 2016 season began with warm temperatures, leading to an early bud break. July and August were cool but the temperature moderated during harvest. One result of the season was this lovely wine that presented a bold yet elegant profile. Fresh aromas of wild cherries, earth, dark plums, cocoa, and sweet spice led to flavors of ripe raspberries, blueberries, and juicy cherries. Just-right acidity and smooth tannins framed this Merlot that was aged for 19 months in French and American oak barrels.
Januik Champoux Vineyard Merlot ($40) – Smooth and supple, this wine of note is from the Champoux Vineyard located in Horse Heaven Hills. Januik considers this vineyard “at the top of my list of outstanding vineyards in Washington State. It consistently produces wines with exceptional depth, complexity, and elegance”. I discovered all of those features and more with each sip. Wafting from the glass were aromas of black cherries, soft spice, and blueberries. The palate burst with concentrated elements of raspberries, black cherries, spice, and touch of florals. Medium in body and tannic structure, this wine was balanced and absolutely delicious. Aged for 22 months in French oak barrels, consider this a wine for cellaring (but I doubt you’ll be able to do that)!
Cheers! Cindy
