In Paso Robles, A Region of “No Rules”, Savor Stories and Sips

Just as flavorful and unique as the wines I tasted in Paso Robles were the stories I heard from some of the most fascinating people I’ve met in quite a while. As a media guest of Paso Robles Wineries and its founder, Lauren Lekai, I had the pleasure of visiting six wineries, each with its own personality, and meeting energetic people who not only made me laugh, but offered a multitude of learning opportunities. And the bonus? I tasted compelling wines that are the reasons Paso Robles is staying on top of savvy wine aficionados’ list of regions to explore.

Located between San Francisco and Los Angeles and about 40 minutes east of the Pacific Ocean, Paso Robles is a bucolic town along Highway 101. It’s a quick drive from the airports in San Jose (2 ½ hours) or San Luis Obispo (40 minutes).

Bordeaux, Rhone, and an ever-growing list of Italian and Spanish grape varieties are not only cultivated, but are thriving in the 614,000-acre Paso Robles AVA. 32,000 acres are under vine, the third largest wine region in California. The region has eleven specific viticultural areas boasting a variety of soils, diverse microclimates, a broad diurnal shift, and a range of altitude from 700 to more than 2000 feet. In essence, no two vineyards are alike.

On the west side of Paso Robles, breezes from the Pacific Ocean and hot temperatures stress vines that flourish in the calcareous shale soil. In fact, there is more calcareous and siliceous rock in Paso Robles than any other California AVA. The east side is warmer during the day and cool at night; its calcareous grainy soil allows grapes to retain their natural acidity. The region’s long growing season and terroir work in harmony to achieve what Paso Robles wine country is known for: distinctive wines that reflect a sense of place.

Following are vignettes of six Paso Robles wineries I visited. Check the websites of each for tasting room hours so that your experiences will be just as memorable and captivating as mine.

Barr Estate Winery

The Story: Warm and welcoming were Tealy and Greg Barr, owners of Barr Estate Winery. Both hail from New Orleans and their Southern charm was pervasive as I learned that both love great jazz, Louisiana crawfish etoufée, oyster dressing, pralines, Cajun shrimp, smoked brisket, Tabasco sauce and terrific food and wine pairings. So, what are good Southern folk doing in California wine country? While living in San Diego and towards the end of their stint in the corporate life, a trip to Argentina resulted in an epiphany to launch a winery (you’ll have to find out their details when you stop by the tasting room). To that end (and I’m guessing after much discussion), they purchased the property in 2007 and now have 57 planted acres, much of which is Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Sips: Greg told me that his biggest challenge is growing the grapes… the easy part is the winemaking, at which his expertise shows. A pour of the 2016 Albariño, fruit forward with a touch of zest, was a light and refreshing wine to sip while visiting the barrel room. I appreciated the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon that exuded layered notes of plum, chocolate and vanilla, then sips of their striking 2012 Malbec. As Greg and Tealy remarked, “You can’t sell what you don’t like.” This wine is a keeper with intense aromas and flavors of currant and boysenberry compote, licorice and leather surrounded by luscious tannins and lively acidity. 6950 Union Road, Paso Robles (805.835.7653)

Brecon Estate

The Story: Damian Grindley, from Wales, and Amanda Grindley met while exploring caves in her home country of Australia. Now they’re exploring not only caves but new wine grape varieties that flourish quite nicely in Paso Robles. On their property is the oldest commercial Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Paso Robles; the rest is planted to Bordeaux varietals that include Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and Malbec from a Cahors clone. In the tasting room, Rhone varieties are poured as well as gorgeous Albariño from parcels between Edna Valley to the Pacific coast near Pismo Beach. (Damian began the Albariño Festival in Paso Robles.) And the name “Brecon”? It’s a small town in South Wales that not only has a plethora of caves but is on soils of calcareous clay. Perfect.

The Sips: The 2017 Brecon True Acacia Head Albariño is from the oldest planting of the variety in California. The coastal influences and Acacia wood notes were present in each mouthwatering sip that presented elements of grapefruit, stone fruit, and crisp citrus.  Brecon’s newly released 2016 Syrah is, in Damian’s words, “classic Paso Robles with its meaty profile” and I have a bottle waiting here at home in Chicago to explore once again. When you stop by the tasting room, don’t forget to try the structured, complex blend of 2016 Zinfandel/Tannat – trust me, the 40% Tannat in the blend differentiates this Zin from all the others. 7450 Vineyard Drive, Paso Robles (805.239.2200)

Michael Gill Cellars

The Story: When a Bakersfield dentist, global game hunter and Paso Robles winery owner are the same person, you know that the tasting experience will be interesting. And it was. Michael Gill purchased his property in 1977 and by the early 1980s, he “knew that Paso Robles would be the next California wine country.” (It didn’t hurt that Gill’s palate was incredibly attuned to the nuances of the land; he has been able to identify specific vineyard blocks when tasting a Paso Robles red.) The first Syrah was planted on the property in 1998 after which he sold grapes to other producers. By 2008, Gill’s winery became bonded so that he could make his own wine and the rest is Michael Gill Cellars’ history. All of his wines are estate grown and produced from single varietals. Vermentino, Viognier, Négrette and Counoise are just a few of the international varieties I sipped in the tasting room. Michael Gill admitted “what we’re doing here is so different from Sonoma and Napa” and once you visit, you’ll understand.

The Sips: Only 56 cases of food friendly, spice and red fruit filled Négrette 2017 were produced. Think about pouring a glass for pairing with a stuffed green pepper or smoked provolone cheese. The Tantrum 2016, a rich and broad Tempranillo named for Gill’s tantrums evoked due to farming the incredibly steep vineyard, and the Black Tie Syrah 2015, a bold, sophisticated award winner, are examples of Gill’s approach to winemaking: focus on fruit and flavor for the win. 4125 Peachy Canyon Road, Paso Robles (805.239.1668)

Pelletiere Estate Vineyard & Winery

The Story: Janis Pelletiere, Chicago native and owner of Pelletiere Estate Vineyard & Winery, and Amy Butler, Winemaker, are authentic examples of the power of women. They’re making beautiful wines from Italian varietals, much of which had already been planted on the property when Janis took the helm a couple of years ago. Considered their flagship wine is Sangiovese and a new program is being implemented whereby some of the Sangiovese is aged in amphora vessels, others in barrels. Janis’ mission is to “make wine so people have joy” and remarked that whereas “Italy is about tradition, Paso Robles is about experimentation.” I found both tradition and creativity in plenty of sips of wine in the tasting room and a tour of two estate cottages that offer breathtaking views of the vineyards and chic, comfortable accommodations for a wine country getaway.  Strongly consider making a reservation for the vineyard tour on the first Saturday of each month. Janis will lead the group with a charcuterie platter and backpack full of wines while you ooh, ahhh and sip!

The Sips: White wine lovers will enjoy floral aromas, body, and texture of the Viognier 2017 that was co-fermented with Muscat Canelli, an Italian varietal. Lively, juicy and fresh was the Tievoli 2017 (“I love it” spelled backwards), an easy drinking blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Zinfandel. That seductive Nebbiolo 2014! After some experimentation, the wine undergoes 100% whole cluster fermentation and barrel ageing for 32 months in neutral French oak. Gorgeous. 3280 Township Road, Paso Robles (805.239.9432)

Rotta Winery

The Story: “No limits, no rules,” stated Christian Tietje, Rotta’s winemaker, someone who exudes the cool factor. And I get it. Among his many jobs, Christian has been a chef, surfer and one of the powers of “Four Vines”, a label that helped put the concept of naked wines on the industry map. In 2015, Sebastian Budeguer, an owner of a family of wineries in Argentina, approached Christian with a plan. Could he help reinvent Rotta, one of California’s oldest wineries? The challenge was accepted and during my few hours at the winery, I discovered plenty of special wines with labels that are timeless. Christian is “paying homage to history, but taking Rotta to the next level”.

The Sips: Was it my good fortune to be at Rotta the moment when freshly baked empanadas from the kitchen were offered for pairing? Oh yes. These delights were enjoyed with the stunning Ecliptic 2016, a blend of 55% Syrah and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, just bottled and available in the fall. Alive with flavor and balance, Christian remarked that the Syrah is “big, sexy, voluptuous… and not to be trifled with.” Got it! We tasted a barrel sample of the Cabernet Grand Reserve 2016, an elegant wine that is and will continue to be anything but a “Napa freight train” (in Christian’s words). The Metric 2016, an homage to Spain with its Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon blend showed notes of luscious red fruit, vanilla, leather and smoke. 250 Winery Road, Templeton (805.237.0510)

Sculpterra Winery and Sculpture Garden

The Story: Paul Frankel, Winemaker since 2008 and son of owners Dr. and Mrs. Warren Frankel, hosted my tasting at Sculpterra, located a few miles east of the town of Paso Robles on a warm sun-filled afternoon. The blue sky provided a glorious backdrop to the artwork found throughout the property. Paul shared that the “art is about supporting the winery and the winery is about supporting the art”. We meandered through the grounds where artwork from Dale Evers, John Jagger, Bob Bentley and others frame a gazebo for private parties, an open area amidst the vineyards for weddings, a stage for live music, and a gaming area with chess tables, bocce ball court, and cement foosball table. And the vineyards, of course! The 135-acre estate vineyards are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Primitivo, Merlot, Viognier, Petite Sirah, Mourvedre, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, all hand pruned and hand-picked. Wine and art are just as important to the Frankel family as their successful endeavors to give back to the community. In the 1990s, Dr. Frankel founded a medical missionary organization, “His Healing Hands”. A portion of the profits from each bottle sold helps fund medical trips to those around the globe who suffer.

The Sips: When you visit, don’t miss the 2016 Viognier with its floral aromas and notes of ripe melon and stone fruit on the palate. The 2014 Grenache was equally as stunning with its tart cherry, rich plum, raspberry and herbal profile. Paul explained that “Cabernet is what we do best”; the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, their most popular wine, was replete with spice, oak, dark red fruit, and smooth as silk tannins. 5015 Linne Road, Paso Robles (888.302.8881)

Cheers! ~ Cindy