Surprised? I don’t blame you. Who would consider cellaring a wine from Vinho Verde, universally known for its light, low-alcohol white wine with a touch of frizzante? Aren’t we supposed to grab a ridiculously affordable bottle from the wine shop, chill it for a few hours, and drink it that night? Yes! However, after a media trip to Vinho Verde (sponsored by Comissão de Viticultura da Região dos Vinhos Verdes), I discovered enough layers to this centuries-old region in Portugal and their wines to clear a space in my cellar for more than a few bottles. Specific varieties have the ability to age and I tasted plenty to prove it. It’s time to bust the myth that all wines from Vinho Verde should be consumed immediately.
Photo Credit: Michael Mcduff
Many, including those in the region, refer to Vinho Verde as a group of wines. Yet, Vinho Verde is a wine region with nine sub-regions encompassing all of northwest Portugal. The climate is affected by mountain ranges, valleys, and rivers. A fair amount of rain occurs in the winter and spring when temperatures are cool. Soils are mostly granite, a crucial element that gives the wines of Vinho Verde their signature profile of freshness and minerality.
Photo Credit: Michael Mcduff
With about 51,000 acres of vines, 45 indigenous grape varieties, 18,000 winegrowers, 93 million liters produced per year, and 100 export markets, this region offers a range of palate-pleasing choices. White varieties account for 86% of the production and reds and rosés are about 14% in total. The most popular varieties found only in the Vinho Verde region are white grapes Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Azal, Loureiro and Trajudura. Each offers differing levels of aromatics, acidity, fresh fruit notes, and body. Red varieties include Espadeiro, Padeiro, and Vinhão; these crisp, intense, and flavorful wines are delicious counterparts to so many traditional dishes.
Photo Credit: www.vinhoverde.pt
During my visits to a number of wineries, the conversation always turned to the ageing process. Can the wines age? If so, which varieties fare better than others? For how long can they be cellared? What unique elements will we find in each sip? What do consumers really want – young, fresh wines or those with even more complexity? Responses were as varied as the wines themselves.
A highlight was tasting twenty-two wines (yes, twenty-two!) from various vintages with Anselmo Mendes, fondly known as “Mr. Alvarinho”. He doesn’t consider himself a winemaker (although he is). Instead, he prefers to be considered “an experimenter”. During our tasting we explored verticals of Loureiro, Alvarinho, and others. Two of my favorites? The 2005 Muros Antigos – Loureiro reminded me of sherry with its golden color and glorious oxidative notes. Then again, the 20o9 Muros Antigos – Alvarinho maintained its fresh profile while being incredibly complex.
Photo Credit: Michael Mcduff
The evening with Anselmo Mendes, our last tasting of the trip, provoked me to give even more thought to the ageability of wines from Vinho Verde. I decided to reach out to those I met and who I consider experts on the subject. I contacted Pedro Martins da Costa, Winemaker at Aveleda, Alexandre Gomes, Owner and Winemaker at A&D Wines, Jose Castro, Export and Marketing Manager at Vercoope, and Nuno Grosso, Winemaker at Casa da Tojeira, all of whom graciously contributed to this conversation.
One of my surprising takeaways during our trip was that wines from the Vinho Verde region have the ability to age. Thoughts?
Pedro Costa, Aveleda: The experience we have shows that Alvarinho has undeniable ageing capacity. However, our Quinta blend (Quinta da Aveleda of Loureiro, Trajadura and only 10% Alvarinho) also shows beautifully 10-15 years after it is produced. In my opinion, thanks to the knowledge we currently have in viticulture, we have managed to increase the quality of the grapes and therefore the potential quality and ageing capability of our wines. Another important factor is the picking date (to ensure we have good balance between acidity and alcohol) and the oxygen control during the whole process, especially bottling.
Alexandre Gomes, A&D Wines: The Avesso grape variety has undoubtedly the greatest ageing potential in our region. The ageing potential is related to natural higher acidity and lower pH, as well as with the tannic structure in red wines. Avesso is almost exclusively confined to the Baião region, where it has its origin and consequently its best expression. Here the soil is granitic with small schist portions in specific points. The climate is strongly influenced by the Douro river. This makes it warmer and possible to achieve ideal conditions for maturation at low altitude (100-200 meters). This same Avesso, when planted on deeper soils with more water or fresher climate, never reaches its maturation and aromatic potential. There are several examples of fantastic Avesso wines with more than 10 years in bottle. I usually say that it’s a pity people always want to taste the last vintage, as the Avesso starts showing up after at least one year in bottle.
Jose Castro, Vercoope: In the Vinho Verde region, several wines made from the varieties Alvarinho, Arinto and Avesso have the ability to age. It depends on what style the winemaker wants. Among these three varieties, Alvarinho is the variety that has most potential to age.
Nuno Grosso, Casa da Tojeira: In my opinion, the two varieties with the greatest potential ageing are Alvarinho and Avesso. Alvarinho has already demonstrated its great potential when it presents wines that are well structured and with a very present acidity. With Avesso, mainly in the sub-region of Baião, you can also get wines with these characteristics, not as aromatic as some Alvarinhos but sometimes with more elegance. I think that the Arinto may in some cases also have potential.
What characteristics will we find in an aged wine from Vinho Verde?
Pedro Costa: Young Vinho Verde is all about freshness, crispness and aromatic exuberancy. As it ages, the fresher expression of the fruit is gradually replaced by notes of peach, honey, dried nuts, petrol. The big surprise is that these wines are supported by the natural freshness that their terroir provides.
Alexandre Gomes: When tasting aged wine, we should expect different sensations. The primary aromatics (fruit flavors) usually are not evident and give place to the fermentation aromatics. The wines are rounder (less astringent) and more unctuous, with flavors that are more towards dried fruits (nuts…) and honey. Their taste lasts longer at the back of the mouth. If the ageing process has no problems, they become a real pleasure.
Jose Castro: We can find much more complexity and other aromas like almonds, nuts, walnuts, and honey. More structure and volume on mouth and a new balance between acidity and new flavors can be discovered.
Nuno Grosso: The flow of notes of fresh fruit, tropical and citrus towards a greater aromatic complexity linked to more mature fruit and sometimes some floral and minerality is more evident. I would say that a more complex and harmonious whole, always assuming that wine has potential of ageing.
In your opinion, do consumers ever think about cellaring their wines? Final thoughts?
Pedro Costa: Vinho Verde is mostly known for its youth and “funnier” side. In today’s society, very little people think about ageing wines at all, even less wines that are white. However, I believe there is a great opportunity to take the reputation of the region to a next level by letting people know that there’s more to it than meets the eye.
Alexandre Gomes: This is clearly one point I think is not consensual in the region. Vinho Verde is known as light, fresh, young, typically fizzy and… sweet. This is the large amount of wine produced with a stereotype of low cost summer wine. The region, in our view, has a place for this but has also much more potential. The Vinho Verde region has three main rivers crossing it, each one with a specially adapted grape variety on its banks: river Minho with Alvarinho, river Lima with Loureiro and river Douro with Avesso.
Jose Castro: The majority of consumers who are looking for Vinho Verde wines are looking for freshness and drinkability. The reality is that our focus is in these consumers; we can’t forget our core business and the core business of our region as well. We understand that there are consumers that are looking for other styles and other offerings, so it is very important to touch these consumers too. We’ve had to be attentive to the new trends, to how the market evolves, and to the consumers of Vinho Verde Wines who prefer something a little bit different.
I think that our region, with the exception of Alvarinho and Avesso, is mainly a region for producing wines young or to not age too much. Of course, we can get very good wines with a several years aged but, in Vinho Verde we’ll get excellent wines younger than other regions. I compare it to the football player Cristiano Ronaldo. If we put him as a defense, for sure that he still be a great football player, but where he is incredibly amazing and makes all the difference is in advance position.
Nuno Grosso: Undoubtedly there are wines with potential for ageing. There is more and more attention and sensitivity to fermentation and ageing in oak on the part of producers. There is potential and if there is a good communication and consumer education policy in this regard (we cannot forget that the region has been selling the image of young and fresh wine for quick consumption), the market will accept the Vinho Verde as a good wine region. I think, however, that the ageing of the wine will always have to pass through the producer and put it on the market when he thinks it is the right time, because I do not think that the consumer will buy some bottles to store and drink it after a few years.
A&D Wines Singular – Age-worthy Avesso from old vines – Photo Credit: Michael Mcduff
Cheers! ~ Cindy
Eric
Cindy Rynning