The Rhône River is one of the most iconic rivers in the world. From the Alps, south of Lucerne, Switzerland, the river meanders through the vineyards of the Valais and Savoie, the vineyard area from Vienne to Valence, and finally to the vineyards of the Southern Rhône and the Midi. Fortunate are those who have the opportunity to cruise the Rhône River on the many ships that make the journey. Indeed, they are able to indulge in the area’s rich cultural heritage and savor exceptional wines from a region that is the second largest French AOC.
Although many consider the area all one, it falls naturally into two parts: the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône. Each part has different climates and in general, cultivates different grape varieties.
Although I haven’t been able to cruise the Rhône (yet!), I was sent four wines (as samples) that express much of what the region has to offer. With each sip, I felt that much closer to this renown area of France.
Northern Rhône
The Northern Rhône lies on the banks of the river between Vienne in the north and Valence in the south. As a whole, vineyards are responsible for only 5% of the total production of Rhône wines, yet these northern vineyards produce wines of the highest reputation and often, the highest prices.
The valley in the Northern Rhône is narrow and steep with vineyards on granite soil that are planted close to the river; the best sites have a south-facing aspect. Syrah (the only black variety permitted in the Northern Rhône) and Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne (the white varieties permitted) thrive in a Continental climate with warm temperatures.
From the Northern Rhône…
Chapoutier Saint-Joseph Les Granits 2014 ($72) – “Work hard and hope for the best” is the mantra behind the winery of Michel Chapoutier. Of course, these words of wisdom are just the beginning: Chapoutier is a fervent believer in “minimal intervention” in the winemaking process; he feels that the true expression of wine is discovered not in the cellar, but as a result of nature taking its course in the vineyard. With respect for and detailed attention to the vineyard, wines he produces “express themselves naturally”.
The wine I poured one evening was simply stunning. Pale gold in the glass, the intense aromas of 100% Marsanne grapes exuded notes of ripe apricots, stone fruit, overripe orchard fruit, beeswax, honey, and a hint of petrol. The well-balanced palate profile, with its lively acidity, was rich and broad. Offering a round mouthfeel and notes of ripe citrus, hint of wet stone, anise, pineapple, honeysuckle, and spice, the finish was luxuriously long and elegant.
Saint Cosme Crozes Hermitage 2015 ($34) – As the leading estate in the Gigondas, wines from Chateau de Saint Cosme, family owned by the Barruol family since 1570, are stunning. When Louis Barruol took the reins in 1992, the production of quality wines was emphasized, as was the plan to convert the vineyards to those that are biodynamic; this occurred in 2010. 15 hectares are located in the “heart of the Gigondas” and Louis Barruol purchases grapes from contract growers that are labeled “Saint Cosme”.
The wine I tasted is of 100% Serine, an ancient local variety of Syrah, sourced from granite soil on hillside vineyards of Erome, Gervans, and Larnage in the northern part of the appellation. On the nose, I discovered elements of blackberries, dark red fruit, earth, and vanilla. The complex and balanced palate profile yielded notes of dark black fruit, smoked meats, black pepper, and spice bolstered by medium acidity and firm, smooth tannins. The finish was long and sophisticated.
Southern Rhône
Vineyards in the Southern Rhône begin south of the town of Montelimar and are located in a wide swath on either side of the river until it passes south of Avignon. This large region produces about 95% of the total production with wines ranging from delicious, everyday choices to those considered ultra-premium. These wines are primarily red and are based on Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (GSM), also known as Rhône blends. Minor white varieties include Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Bourboulenc.
Many vineyards are planted on a flat landscape with the best sites on stony soils that absorb the sun’s heat and warm the vineyard. The Mediterranean climate offers mild winters and hot dry summers; drought can be problematic. Heavy winds, known as the Mistral, may cause damage to the vines since there are fewer slopes to protect the vineyards.
From the Southern Rhône…
Alain Jaume Rasteau “Les Valats” 2015 ($27) – Those at Alain Jaume Winery, established in 1826 in the Northern area of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, are proud of its magnificent terroir and work in accordance with certified organic viticultural practices. Alain Jaume is the principal winemaker; his sons are involved with sales and marketing as well as winemaking. Currently, the winery includes 40 acres in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 50 acres in Lirac, and 75 acres in Côtes du Rhône.
The vineyards, from where 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre in “Les Valats” were cultivated, sit on sites of clay and limestone soil. Powerful aromas of dark red and purple fruit and ripe blackberries were mesmerizing. On the complex palate, I noted abundant spice, vanilla, rich red and black fruit, and mint enveloped by gripping tannins and bright acidity leading to a lingering mineral-driven finish.
After opening for about 30 minutes, I found this wine of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah exactly what I was looking for. Aromas of cherries, rich red fruit, ripe raspberries, blackberries, pepper, tingly spice, and a touch of oak leapt from the glass. Abundant acidity and powerful yet integrated tannins provided a foundation for flavors of spice, pepper, herbs, blackberries, and plums. The persistent finish was ever so elegant.
If cruising the Rhône River isn’t part of your travel plans for now, experience a taste of this incredible wine region… one sip at a time.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
