Why Savvy Millennials Should Crave Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling

It’s always a treat to sit down with a legendary member of the wine industry. Recently, it was my good fortune to have lunch and a lively conversation with Barbara Rundquist-Muller, owner of Dr. H. Thanisch winery in the Mosel Valley of Germany. Another gift? I was given the opportunity to taste some of the most stunning Rieslings I’ve had in quite a long time.

Our conversation centered around the characteristics of the portfolio of exceptional Rieslings she brought to share. Making each sip more meaningful, Barbara spoke of stories about the Dr. H. Thanisch estate: its distinguished history, grape growing philosophy then and now, and her role in the winery that is hundreds of years old. Barbara spoke, too, about the quest to encourage a new generation of wine consumers to fall in love with quality Riesling, in particular those from Dr. H. Thanisch. What are these young winelovers looking for in a wine? How can Riesling producers offer to those in this demographic the beautiful wines they never thought they would crave?

While sifting through my notes and doing my due diligence with more research (sharing a few bottles of Riesling with the under-35 crowd and listening to their thoughts), I realized that many of the answers to the questions Barbara Rundquist-Muller posed, were already found in our lunchtime discussion.

Of course, catchy labels are a quick lure to anyone who is seeking a bottle of wine about which they know very little. Yet, this new generation wants more than an artsy label. They’re looking for a wine that delivers a compelling backstory (Dr. H. Thanisch has this covered!), that has the ability to pair with a wide variety of foods, that offers a range of diversity with regards to wine style, that gives a bow to the environment through efforts towards sustainability, and that is of high quality at an affordable price. In essence, these young and savvy winelovers desire something interesting that’s delicious to drink… and they’re more than willing to explore the options.

The bottom line? Look no further: Rieslings from Dr. H. Thanisch deliver all of the above and more. Here’s how.

The Fascinating Story of Dr. H. Thanisch

Tradition reigns in the story of Dr. H. Thanisch winery. More than 350 years ago, in 1636, the name of the Thanisch family of winemakers was mentioned for the first time in the registers of Bernkastel-Kues. In 1654, the family was on a tax list with an estimated fortune of 776 Reichstaler and an annual wine harvest of 3 Fuder casks. Since then, eleven generations of ownership and the wines of Dr. H. Thanisch have been recognized far beyond the boundaries of the Mosel Valley. International reputation was secured in the mid-19^th century under the management of Dr. Hugo Thanisch. Since that time, Thanisch wines have sold for extraordinary prices at international auctions.

40 acres of prime Mosel Valley vineyards, planted exclusively with Riesling, are located in Bernkastel, Kues, Lieser, and Brauneberg. The Berncasteler Doctor site, which, along with many other vineyards, includes parcels that the family has owned for 200 years. All are on steep slopes that are in and around Bernkastel. Thanks to their slate soils, mineral-rich wines with luscious, complex aromas and a balance between sweetness and acidity are found.

 

In 1882, the family purchased the Berncasteler Doctor vineyard of over 100- year-old vines, located behind the quaint village of Bernkastel. The very steep site (60% soil gradation) on blue and gray slate with a southwest orientation is considered one of the great vineyards of the world. Interestingly enough, the Doctor name originates in a legend about Prince Boemond II of Trier who fell sick, then was cured by a wine from this vineyard. Medicinal powers in fine wine from the Mosel Valley? Of course! The Riesling wines from the Berncasteler Doctor, the “signature wines” of Dr. H. Thanisch, are among the best known white wines in the world.

In 1986, a bottle of 1921 Berncasteler Doctor fetched the incredible sum of 11,200 DM. This was a bottle of the first Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ever made in the Mosel Valley. The bottle had been hidden, together with other rarities, during World War II, and found by accident in 1959. A former employee, who knew nothing about the hiding place, approached the estate manager of that time about these wines. He investigated the cellar and found the wines hidden behind a double wall. Dr. H. Thanisch

The majority of vinification of wines from The Doctor vineyard occurs in the traditional, over 350-year old “Doctorcellar”, a cave carved into the rock underneath the vineyard; it offers ideal conditions for the maturation and storage of the wines. All Dr. H. Thanisch wines are matured in traditional old oak Fuder casks at a consistent year-round temperature of 45 degrees Fahrenheit. In the mid-1990s, the family invested into modern technology and temperature-controlled fermentation equipment.

 

 

Environmental Consciousness at Dr. H. Thanisch

Margrit Muller-Burggraef, a granddaughter of Dr. Hugo Thanisch, passed the estate on to her niece, Barbara Rundquist Muller in January 2007. Now, the winemaking team is diligent in and committed to their efforts towards sustainability.

No use of pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, chemical fertilizers, or heavy machinery that compacts the slate soils are used. Instead, special herbs are planted to eliminate the weeds, pheromones instead of insecticides are used, mulch from pips, stems, and skins of grapes are substituted for chemical fertilizers, and nearly all work in the vineyards is done manually. In the cellar, environmentally sound practices continue. There is no use of artificial enzymes, sorbic acid (often used to stabilize the wine), and industrial cleaners; sulphur dioxide is rarely used.

It was evident in my glass that these environmentally friendly practices result in beautiful wines. Each fresh, pure sip expressed the distinctive terroir of the Mosel Valley.

The Palate-Pleasing, Affordable Rieslings of Dr. H. Thanisch

In the event you’re expecting the Riesling wines that your mother kept in the refrigerator, you’ll be disappointed (or thrilled!). Barbara Rundquist-Muller explained that minerality is at the core of the region’s wines and that “the dryer style of Riesling is the new rosé”! The winery focuses on the light and elegant Kabinett style of Riesling and I was more than happy to taste a selection of world-class wines with Barbara.

Our first two wines were Dr. H. Thanisch Feinherb Riesling QbA 2015 and 2016 (each around $15). The 2015 was crisp and fruit forward with pronounced acidity, lovely floral notes and a clean, persistent finish whereas the 2016 was equally delicious. Notes of bright citrus, stone fruit, lime, lemon, and a hint of spice on the finish exuded quality. Barbara shared that these versatile, affordable wines are “meant to be enjoyed while you have a conversation”. I can’t disagree with that! These wines are a perfect and budget-friendly entry to the world of Dr. H. Thanisch Rieslings.

Tasting the iconic Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2014 ($48) was a gift to my palate. I was mesmerized by the slate-like minerality and elements of ripe fruit, peaches, exotic spice, and snappy acidity that led to a brilliant finish. As I admired the profile of the wine, I couldn’t help but think of the storied history of the vineyard and how fortunate we, as winelovers, are to have an opportunity to travel to the estate of Dr. H. Thanisch, one sip at a time.

The Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2016 ($22) reflected the goal of the winemaker: to “build a trilogy of fruit, minerality, and acidity”. Elegant and balanced with notes of tropical fruit, berries, and hint of salt, this is a wine everyone will appreciate. And the 2017 vintage? Just as flavorful, the Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2017 ($24) offered bright fruit notes, incredible balance, minerality, and that velvet-like mouthfeel I’ve come to covet in a wine.

Finally, I found balance and beauty in the Dr. Thanisch Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2015 ($28).  My palate was in Riesling heaven as it burst with notes of ripe fruit, minerality, and petrol then submitted to a lingering, ever-so-satisfying finish.

Riesling and On-Point Food Pairings

Our lunch was held at La Josie, a must-visit Chicago restaurant that specializes in Mexican fare. It didn’t take but a second to discover that Dr. H. Thanisch Rieslings, with their minerality and glorious balance between vibrant acidity and just a touch of sugar, were the perfect pairings with salty chips, spicy salsa, and cheesy roasted vegetable quesadillas. In fact, Barbara noted that Asian, Mexican, Moroccan, and other spicy foods are “God’s gift to German wines”. She further explained that today’s German kitchen is “taking traditional recipes and making them modern, so that they can be paired with Riesling”.

What are some delicious pairings? Besides your favorite sushi or tacos, one of Barbara’s favorite dish is salmon filet sprinkled with lemon salt, olive oil and pepper, then baked in foil and enjoyed with Badstube Riesling. Then again, a platter of fresh oysters enjoyed with a dry Spatlese is her nirvana!

Local German cheeses are obvious choices as flavorful pairings. But there are more. You love warm risotto, roasted vegetables, beef curry, pork or poultry dishes? Dr. H. Thanisch Kabinett Rieslings will be a luscious complement. To make lobster, scallops, smoked meats, or even a BLT sandwich that much better, pour a glass of Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Spatlese Trocken. And with a fresh, textured salad, light snack, or a good friend on the porch, pour a glass or two of Dr. H. Thanisch Feinherb Riesling, not too sweet, not too dry…just right!

My takeaway from this magnificent wine pairing lunch? The Rieslings of Dr. H. Thanisch are delivering everything that every savvy winelover, regardless of age or “demographic”, desires. History, sustainability, affordability, quality, food-worthy…I tasted all of these and more in each sip. You will, too.

Cheers! ~ Cindy