Domaine Filliatreau and Pierre & Bertrand Couly: Diverse Experiences in the Loire Valley

My husband and I were thrilled to experience everything that the Loire Valley had to offer… for a second time. Our tickets were booked soon after last year’s memorable visit and we were more than ready to explore our favorite places while discovering those that were new. After multiple challenging attempts (the wicked wintry weather in the Northeast cancelled three of our flights and French rail and air strikes threatened to do the same), we finally arrived in Paris with a working GPS, inquisitive minds, and thirsty palates at the ready!

 

Our return to the Loire Valley wouldn’t be complete without staying at the magnificent Chateau de Jalesnes once again, touring stunning chateaux, sampling a variety of local restaurants, brasseries, and bistros, and taking leisurely drives and strolls through the countryside. But there was one more element that caused me to fall in love all over again with the distinctive Loire Valley. We were invited to private tastings, personal visits, and entertaining, informative chats with four winery owners. They seemed just as happy to share their stories as we were to listen and appreciate all that they had to say (and pour!).

The morning after we arrived at the Chateau de Jalesnes, just 20 minutes north of Saumur, we anticipated our visit to Domaine Filliatreau in Saumur-Champigny then Pierre & Bertrand Couly in Chinon. Although the settings were only 30 minutes apart, the stories and wines were examples of how the word “diversity” describes so much of the Loire Valley.

Domaine Filliatreau in Saumur-Champigny  

The sun was bright and the air crisp as we set out on Sunday morning for a visit to Domaine Filliatreau, an estate of 40 hectares owned by Paul Filliatreau. In 1967, Maurice Filliatreau left his son, Paul, 8 hectares of vineyards that produced only rosé wines, a style that was quite popular at the time (and still is today). After many years, the well-known family business is thriving, thanks to the purchase of prime properties and the production of exceptional wines of Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc.

Our tasting was in La Grande Vignolle, a fascinating space with history dating from the 12^th century and with tranquil views of the Loire River. Long ago, it was a settlement that sheltered families who had dug their homes into the soft tufastone. Later, it became a small village formed by several caves owned by the Lord of the Vignolle; the property ultimately became a dowry to his daughter by the end of the 15^th century. In 1990, Paul Filliatreau discovered this 6 hectare area as he was searching for more vineyards to acquire. As an homage to its rich history and architecture, a team specializing in restoration made the unique property what it is today: a troglodytic Seigneurial lodging house and a “showcase for the wines of Domaine Filliatreau”.

 

We were greeted by Sebastien, our host, who was just as much entertaining as he was a fervent advocate of the mesmerizing wines from Saumur-Champigny. In this troglodyte cave, wines were poured as we learned more about the Domaine.

Sebastien explained that Domaine Filliatreau produces mostly red wines, yet whites and a few rosés are in the portfolio. Soil is of chalk covered with clay and sand, typical of what is found in vineyards of Saumur-Champigny, in  close proximity to the Loire River. The Domaine’s Château Fouquet vineyards, organic since 1998, are in the prime area of Brézé, located approximately 18 minutes from La Grande Vignolle.

The philosophy of “less is more” is pervasive at Domaine Filliatreau, as is the feeling that “wine is made in the vineyards, so we must respect the grape”. Irrigation is forbidden and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks; aging is in neutral oak, if needed. Sebastien shared that the “expression of fruit” is the goal and that the Domaine only uses oak casks in the event of “superb vintages – the barrel must reveal the notes of the wine”.

If the “expression of fruit” is the goal, the wines we tasted crossed the finish line. The Lena 2017, named after Fredrick’s mother, was a bright, crisp Saumur white wine with a gentle attack on the palate and a rich, lingering finish. The Imago 2015 Saumur, of 100% Chenin Blanc, boasted aromas and flavors of honey and citrus.

The Château Fouquet 2017 was a beautiful dry rosé of 100% Cabernet Franc. Very little of this wine is produced since the family prefers not to “sacrifice the red grapes”. Soft tannins and bright acidity were found in the Château Fouquet 2016 Cabernet Franc. From the same vineyard is Château Fouquet 2014 Le Clos. Oak notes were prevalent in this wine that was fermented in stainless steel then aged in French barrels for 18 months. To be considered a “gentle giant”, the Domaine Filliatreau Château Fouquet 2010 presented a full body with vibrant acidity and soft tannins – this wine is clearly meant for ageing.

Earth and red fruit were abundant in my sip of the Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny 2017, a Cabernet Franc with the ability to age, yet easily enjoyed while young.

Just released is La Grande Vignoble Saumur-Champigny 2016, an incredible wine from 50 to 60 year-old vines located directly above the troglodyte caves in which we were tasting! This “untouched production” exuded powerful red fruit accents and I was smitten. Old vines prevailed yet again in the taste of Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Vielles Vignes 2015, by all accounts a sterling vintage year in the Loire Valley. A broad profile of deep, red fruit reigned with each sip. As a comparison, we tasted Domaine Filliatreau Saumur-Champigny Vielles Vignes 2003, a selection that Sebastien considers a wine to “drink on a special occasion”. His other suggestion? Be selfish with this wine and don’t share a drop!

Satiated with fascinating stories and sips of memorable wines from Domaine Filliatreau in the troglodyte cave at La Grande Vignolle, we thanked Sebastien profusely for making our first winery visit of this trip one that will be remembered.

Pierre & Bertrand Couly in Chinon     

After a delicious lunch in a quaint village restaurant, we drove a short distance to the family owned winery of Pierre & Bertrand Couly in Chinon where we were greeted by Michelle Couly, our lovely host and wife of Bertrand. It was immediately apparent that this winery was as unique as I expected.

 

As we began our tour, Michelle explained that Pierre & Bertrand Couly owns 21 hectares of vineyards: 20 hectares are of Cabernet Franc, 1 hectare is of Chenin Blanc, not atypical of the region since the vast majority of wines from Chinon are Cabernet Franc. Their family history of wine production goes back to the 15^th century on Bertrand’s mother’s side (Farou). The family vineyards in Saint Louans remain today

 

Chinon AOC has three predominant soil types: clay and tuffeau limestone on the hillsides, sand and gravel on the Loire River’s flood plains, and alluvial silt terraces of gravel and sand along the banks of the Vienne River. Michelle shared that their vineyards, located in different areas of Chinon, are of mainly limestone soil; their vineyards on gravel and sand soil south of the Loire “may flood on occasion”. The forest areas on the properties “protect the vineyards from the north wind” and vineyards planted on slopes tend to run from east to west in order to benefit from abundant sunshine from the south. Pierre and Bertrand Couly are engaging in sustainable viticulture and have received the label HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) for their efforts.

The underground winemaking facility blends tradition with modern techniques; as a bow to its rich family history, many artifacts of years gone by stand next to new acquisitions. Visitors won’t see any oak barrels; no oak is used for aging wines at Pierre & Bertrand Couly. 150,000 bottles are produced per year, although “production has been less in the last few years”. Rosé produced in all of Chinon AOC is about 15%, but at Pierre & Bertrand Couly, rosé accounts for 20% of the winery’s production. Michelle shared that the winery is “known for its rosé”, produced using the saignée method.

We walked up the steps from the underground facility to a modern tasting room that boasted a lovely bar area behind which an informative video of the winery could be viewed. We joined Michelle at a table where several wines from the portfolio were waiting for us to enjoy.

 

Of course, we started with sips of the Chinon Rose 2016! Its popularity is well-deserved – this light, dry, and refreshing wine was delightful, as well as a delicious way to begin our stellar tasting. The Chinon 2017 of Chenin Blanc, cultivated on limestone soil, was almost white in color and offered rich notes of peaches and stone fruits.

The Chinon Cuvée Classique 2017, of Cabernet Franc grapes from clay and sandy soil, showed soft tannins and plenty of red fruit. From hillside vineyards on ancient limestone, Chinon La Haute Olive 2014 was soft and elegant with a delicious blend of florals and fruits; it truly had the ability to age.

Ahhh, the Chinon St. Louans le Parc 2014 is from the 15^th century family vineyard on yellow sand and less than 10 minutes from the winery itself. Notes of minerality, smoke, and tobacco were rich and broad. Le V de Pierre & Bertrand Couly 2014, with grapes cultivated on limestone soil, was well structured and presented powerful tannins. The name “V” was chosen as an homage to Bertrand Couly’s youngest son who collaborated in the making of this wine. Michelle offered tastes of its 2012 vintage; it’s the “winter wine” she loves!

It was difficult to say good-bye to Michelle and the family’s fascinating wines that were a true reflection of terroir and family history. This was a perfect Sunday afternoon!

My husband and I didn’t need to travel far to experience the diversity of the Loire Valley; our 30-minute drive covered two distinct areas. At Domaine Filliatreau, we appreciated the full-bodied, fruit and spice filled elements of Cabernet Franc from Saumur-Champigny as well as other, well-structured wines, both white and red, from their properties in Saumur. The area’s temperate maritime climate and tuffeau soils on chalky slopes, in close proximity to the Loire River, contribute to the profile of their wines. During our visit to Pierre & Bertrand Couly in Chinon, an AOC located on both sides for the Vienne River just south of the Loire, we explored a range of styles of Cabernet Franc, from light to broad, and rosés of note. In general, its maritime/oceanic climate is not as temperate as that in Saumur-Champigny (the wind that afternoon!) and while driving through the region, I noticed a plethora of vineyards on slopes and hillsides.

Yet, what did I discover that was the same in both places? I found magnificent wines that were an authentic expression of the grape and genuine people who were proud to pour each taste.

Cheers! ~ Cindy