Always Chardonnay!

I still haven’t figured out why there are members of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) Club. Chardonnay, one of the key grape varieties, has the ability to produce wines of quality in a wide range of climates. Classic regions include Burgundy and Champagne, but outstanding Chardonnays can be found in vineyards around the globe. In my humble opinion, the club members simply need to broaden their palate and make a few discoveries.

 

Pure Chablis, cultivated in the cool climes of the northernmost area of Burgundy, is a crisp, clean Chardonnay with beautiful aromatics, snappy acidity and a sensation of minerality on the palate. Champagne, another cool climate region in France, produces Chardonnay grapes that boast high acidity and are light to medium in body. Cultivated in regions with a moderate climate, the Chardonnay grape may exude more citrus, melon, or peach flavors. Then again, Chardonnay from warm and hot climates tend to display characteristics of tropical fruit, such as banana and mango.

Winemaking styles differ and their range is broad. Many use malolactic fermentation to soften the fruit and acidity and to give flavors of butter or crème brulee. Chardonnay grapes may be aged in stainless steel to retain their fresh and fruit forward characteristics or fermented and/or aged in a differing oak barrels, resulting in broad or subtle notes of toast and nuts.

Recently, I was sent (as samples) two new releases of delicious California Chardonnays that should be served at the next ABC meeting. Guaranteed to please even the most discerning (if not doubtful) member’s palate, these selections may prompt the club to dissolve.

 

Stony Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2015 ($48) – Located in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain district, Fred and Eleanor McCrea discovered the property in the early 1940s. Although they wanted to plant only Chardonnay grapes (as an homage to their favored white wines of Burgundy), the couple was convinced to plan other varieties; Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Semillon, Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are now found in the vineyards. Now, the “signature style” of this remarkable vineyard is that of restraint and minimalism with a respect for the elegance of Old World winemaking; the Chardonnay I tasted reflects that. On the nose, I found refreshing aromas of honeysuckle, lemon, green apple, and minerality. The palate burst with mouthwatering acidity, lemons, stone fruit, juicy citrus, and notable minerality, all leading to a brilliant finish. To preserve the wine’s freshness and minerality, Winemaker Mike Chelini inhibited malolactic fermentation and used only neutral oak for ageing.  This is a beautiful Chardonnay, one that can be poured now or held for a few more years.

FEL Chardonnay 2016 ($32) – My first taste of this stunning wine was at the Wine Blogger’s Conference 2017 and I was thrilled to receive a sample soon thereafter. The Cliff Lede Vineyards were founded in 2002 by Cliff Lede, an aficionado of Bordeaux wines. By 2005, he had established a magnificent winery with a cave system etched into a hillside overlooking estate vineyards. In 2009, Lede purchased a small winery, Breggo Cellars, in the Anderson Valley located in Mendocino County. It was renamed FEL Wines, as a tribute to Cliff Lede’s mother, Florence Elsie Lede, who engaged in her fair share of home winemaking. Aromas of honey, melon, juicy Granny Smith apple, grapefruit, minerality, and yellow flowers burst from the glass upon that first whiff. And the palate? Lively acidity and notes of Meyer lemon, green apple, stone fruit, and a touch of baking spice were ever so balanced. The juicy finish lingered… The Fels Chardonnay, under the craftsmanship of Winemaker Ryan Hodgins, exhibited fresh, bright characteristics thanks to the decision not to utilize neutral French barrels and limit malolactic fermentation. The wine was aged sur lie, without stirring, for nine months.

Both of these exceptional wines used neutral oak and limited malolactic fermentation. They’re a delectable compromise for those palates who disdain the steely minerality or overly oaked profile of Chardonnay. Consider the ABC club disbanded…

Cheers~ Cindy