This article is the second in the series, Loire Valley Wines: Hiding in Plain Sight.
Another glorious day in the Loire Valley, cloudy and cool weather notwithstanding, was ours as my husband and I enjoyed a delightful picnic lunch (baguettes! wine!) in the shadows of the Chateau d’Angers. Afterwards, we began our short journey to the vineyards and tasting room of Domaine de la Bergerie, nestled in the Coteaux de Layon of the Anjou region. We drove along winding roads, through quaint villages, past small churches, and made more than a few wrong turns. Yet, we arrived at the lovely property on time and were thrilled to finally meet Anne Guegniard, an 8th generation member of this winemaking family.
Domaine de la Bergerie has been a family estate since its purchase in 1961 by Marie-Scholastique Horeau. In 1964, the property was transferred to her daughter, Marie-Agnès, and in 1979, Yves Guégniard joined his parents. Currently Domaine de la Bergerie is managed by Yves and his wife, Marie-Annick. Their daughter, Anne, is poised to take the reins of this outstanding winery dedicated to the crafting of exceptional wines and adhering to the highest standards in doing so.
Anne graciously welcomed us into the casual, contemporary tasting room located across the lane from a plot of Chenin Blanc. It also happens to be a schist’s throw from Michelin starred restaurant, La Table de la Bergerie, owned by Anne’s husband David. Food and wine pairing at its best? No question.
As Anne popped the corks from several wines in the estate’s portfolio, she explained that
Domaine de la Bergerie owns a total of 36 hectares of organically farmed vineyards. Eight are found at the Domaine itself where soil is comprised of clay and schist and the oldest vines are up to 100 years old. Chenin Blanc (20 hectares) and Chardonnay for their sparkling wine (1 hectare) are cultivated in Anjou and Savennières. Grapes for sweet wines are grown in Coteaux du Layon, Coteaux du Layon Rablay, Coteaux du Layon Chaume Premier Cru, and Grand Cru Quarts de Chaume, the only Grand Cru in the Loire Valley. Cabernet Franc, Grolleau, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a small plot of Gamay are planted in Anjou and Anjou Villages. The region enjoys a mild continental climate with some maritime influences thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. With such a range of grapes grown in different appellations with varying terroir, it’s no wonder that every wine is unique.
Those wines! While Anne poured and we tasted new releases, I was impressed with the quality and profile of styles ranging from white to red, still to sparkling, and dry to sweet. Each sip was elegant and sophisticated, but with a casual flair that was easy going and comfortable. My husband, by now a Loire Valley wine aficionado, was mesmerized by the wines…and I must admit, I was, too. Following are just a few of our favorites…
Our first taste was a refreshing bubbly, Crémant de Loire, a blend of 50% Chenin Blanc (from varying plots and soils that are predominantly gravel and schist) and 50% Chardonnay grown on the estate. All natural with no dosage, the Crémant greeted my palate with bright acidity and a snappy profile.
Lively and crisp, I realized rather quickly that I had a strong penchant for oysters on the half shell and grilled sardines (!) after a few sips of
Anjou Blanc “Sous la Tounnelle” 2015. Anne explained that this wine is mostly Chenin Blanc that offers intense floral notes and just a touch of Chardonnay to add exotic fruit characteristics. And did it ever. Next, the
Anjou Blanc “Les Pierres Giraud” 2015 is of older, very ripe Chenin Blanc grapes grown on clay and schist soil. Rich and broad, the wine was aged in oak barrels for one year and boasted intense aromas of apricots and peaches and an expressive palate profile of ripe fruit.
One of my “ah-ha!” favorites was
Savennières “La Croix Picot” 2014 of 100% Chenin Blanc, grown in the Domaine’s 1 hectare of 25 year-old vines found on sandstone and schist soil in Savennières, a small, highly regarded white wine appellation located immediately southwest of Angers and within the Anjou district. Fresh and fruit forward, I discovered elements of grapefruit, white stone fruit, zesty minerality, and a lingering finish. The Chenin Blanc was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks for one year; Anne noted that we can hold this beauty for up to ten years. (We purchased a bottle and let the wine flow that night…) As a comparison, Anne poured another favorite, the
Savennières “Clos le Grand Beaupréau” 2014, grown on schist, sand, and phtanite soil. After spending one year in oak barrels, this Chenin Blanc was more full- bodied and broad in both aromas and flavor profiles, yet displayed that signature minerality beloved by those who crave wines from Savennières. Just delicious.
If you’ve never had the opportunity to try Grolleau, you must – your palate may want to be surprised. Domaine de la Bergerie has just released Les Cabrioles Grolleau 2016, a light and fruit forward red wine offering just a hint of black pepper, a typical characteristic of Grolleau, explained Anne. Meant to drink young, this unique wine spent three months in oak and lingering moments on my palate.
You may have tasted Anjou Rouge “La Cerisaie” 2015, a deliciously complex wine of 100% Cabernet Franc. A smart pairing with grilled meats or roast chicken under your favorite sauce, I found La Cerisaie, readily available in the United States, to exude notes of violets, juicy red and black fruits, gentle tannins, and food friendly acidity.
The wine we purchased to enjoy once we returned home? Both my husband and I were impressed with the
Anjou Villages Evanescence 2014, a full bodied and rich wine from the first sip to the last. Only 4K bottles were produced (and none are exported to the United States) from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon cultivated in vineyards surrounding the village. Structured and bold, with powerful aromas and flavors of black fruit compote, cassis, and leather, the finish was lasting. Anne shared that we could cellar the Evanescence for 15 years, but that’s not likely to happen.
Anne opened two sweet wines as our grand finale. The
Coteaux du Layon Premier Cru Chaume 2014 is 100% Chenin Blanc grown on soils of sandstone, schist, and just a small amount of clay. In Chaume, where Domaine de la Bergerie has 1 hectare out of 100, yields are small and, according to the rules of the Premier Cru, grapes must be picked at 16 degrees Centigrade. With just the right amount of residual sugar at each sip, I discovered notes of sweet raisins, juicy apricot and ripe peaches with a velvet-like mouthfeel and lovely finish. And then this:
Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 2014, one of the most glorious dessert wines I’ve tasted. Cultivated on sandstone and schist soil, Quarts de Chaume is the only Grand Cru in the Loire Valley; Domaine de la Bergerie owns almost 1-1/3 hectares. Only 2K bottles are made of this wine of Chenin Blanc, one that exudes intensity and complexity. A magnificent medley of bananas, apricots, and more on both the nose and palate, the Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru was quite the ending to a brilliant tasting.
It was a gift to taste the portfolio of elegant wines from
Domaine de la Bergerie in such a casual setting. In her genuine, easy-going way, Anne Guégniard helped my husband and me feel right at home on that cool spring day when we discovered, yet again, more unforgettable Loire Valley wines that are hiding in plain sight.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
