“Wine should be shared with friends and paired with food.” These words, spoken by Pablo Cuneo, Winemaker at Argentina’s Bodega Ruca Malen, summed up the glorious experience I had during a mid-afternoon wine luncheon at Rural Society, a restaurant specializing in Argentine cuisine and located in the Loews Chicago Hotel in Chicago.
Cuneo not only transported a memorable selection of his wines from Argentina, but the talented Chef Lucas Bustos from the restaurant at Ruca Malen as well! Fortunate friends and members of the Chicago media were treated to an afternoon of learning, tasting, and camaraderie as Chef Bustos reigned the kitchen of Rural Society. Our experience was aptly named “Ruca Malen and The Andes Kitchen” to reflect Cuneo’s philosophy that “the right place for wine is on the table”.
Chef Lucas Bustos and Winemaker Pablo Cuneo (photo credit: www.beveragemedia.com)
Started in 1999 by Jean Pierre Thibaut and Jacques Louis de Montalembert, Frenchmen with extensive knowledge of and experience in the wine industry, the philosophy of Ruca Malen is to make “world class wines” that are a subtle bridge between the Old and New Worlds. Winemaker Pablo Cuneo is inspired by the French elements of elegance and finesse, but embraces the grape varieties that reflect the distinguishing characteristics of Argentina.
Varieties cultivated at Ruca Malen include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Torrontes. Wine lovers are able to explore three tiers of wines at different price points – Yauquen, Ruca Malen Riserva, and Kinien. According to Cuneo, each wine at every level is food friendly and meets three criteria: “is precise in its palate profile, displays nice acidity, and presents a level of intensity that balances” the selected cuisine.
Ruca Malen opened its restaurant in 2004 so that visitors could have the opportunity to appreciate local wines and locally sourced food; a winery with a restaurant offering a tasting menu was a new concept at the time. Crucial to the owners was the goal that the wines had to maintain high quality…and never be compromised. To address and meet that objective, the restaurant at Bodega Ruca Malen boasts a fixed menu that only changes according the season, ensuring that consistent quality is achieved. With Chef Bustos at the helm, foodies and wine lovers alike are able to “sit at the table and relax” with delicious food paired with expressive wines.
It was our turn to do the same in Chicago.
The Andes Kitchen
Pablo Cuneo shared that Chef Lucas Bustos was asked to “cook just for the wines” at Rural Society for our event. He “took elements from various areas of Argentina and used new recipes using old techniques” so that we could “learn about Argentina through food”. As much as I love wines from Argentina, I’m not as familiar about its cuisine…this was a perfect chance to learn more as Chef Bustos explained each dish and Winemaker Pablo Cuneo described the wines.
Our first course was a
seasonal squash marinated in lemon, chilis, and fresh herbs, a recipe from Calchaquies in the Northwest Argentina. Fresh and light, the course was paired with
Yauquen Torrontes 2015 ($12.99) from Salta. Its soft, luscious aromas and crisp flavors of white flowers, citrus, and herbs were a lovely beginning.
Next, a
carob dough stuffed with Malbec-braised rabbit with a nut and potato emulsion was delightfully surprising thanks to its savory flavors and texture. The recipe, from Huarpes, Mendoza, was paired with
Yauquen Malbec 2014 ($12.99), an easy drinking, every day wine with notes of juicy red fruit on the nose and palate, elements that persisted during the pleasant finish.
What would Argentine cuisine be without beef? Presented was a succulent
cured and olive oil marinated beef with a bean salad and Malbec sauce inspired by a recipe from Diaguitas, La Rioja in Northwest Argentina. Paired with a glass of elegant, complex
Ruca Malen Reserva Malbec 2014 ($18.99), the tender beef and rich sauce were made even more mouthwatering thanks to the wine’s fresh aromas and tastes of violets, jammy red fruit, herbs, and spice.
Prepared Curanto-style (a traditional form of pit cooking over hot stones), was
Wagyu picanha beef with roasted vegetables, a dish found in Mapuches in Southwest Argentina. A lovely
Ruca Malen Reserva Petit Verdot 2013 ($18.99) presenting aromas of red and black fruit, florals, and vanilla spice was offered. With plenty of tannic structure and flavor on the palate, the Petit Verdot was a powerful balance to the strong flavors of the Wagyu picanha beef.
Ahhh, a beautiful, elegant blend of
Kinien de Don Raul 2011 ($75.00) was poured to pair with
grilled filet mignon with smoked carrot puree, quinoa and sweet corn, a recipe from Patagones in Southwest Argentina. A blend of mostly Malbec with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, this expressive wine of pepper, eucalyptus, anise, black fruit, and chocolate was in spellbinding harmony with the smoky, salty flavors of the filet mignon…exactly what Chef Bustos and Cuneo intended.
Finally, our more than satisfied group (now good friends!) enjoyed
dulce de leche cake with
Ruca Malen Brut Sparkling Wine NV ($27.99). Refreshing and fruit forward, this wine was dry with notes of toast on the creamy finish – a delightful finish to a memorable lunch.
I was impressed with the expressive, elegant wines of
Bodega Ruca Malen. Paired with the creative cuisine of Chef Lucas Bustos, each wine presented qualities that (perhaps) may not have been noted when enjoyed simply on its own. Is Winemaker Pablo Cuneo’s core philosophy that wine and food should be enjoyed together in the company of friends accurate? Absolutely. I experienced it that day.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
