The first wine review I wrote, in September 2011, was of Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon Yarden 2009. I noticed it on the wine list as a by-the-glass choice at a local restaurant. The Cabernet Sauvignon had all of the requirements for an interesting blog post: most everyone appreciates Cabernet Sauvignon, the price was reasonable, the wine was from a country that wasn’t on everyone’s radar (certainly not mine), and it was delicious. I thought that people may be enticed to read my review. They did.
Fast forward to spring 2016 when I received an invitation to a media lunch and tasting with Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker at Golan Heights Winery. I was elated. Just two weeks before, I had launched a redesign of my website and during the process, had read my first post once again, thinking about how many wines I’ve tasted since, yet remembering the initial sip of the Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon 2009. An edited snippet of my 2011 review follows.
“I decided not to go with a safe bet from the wine list and asked for a glass of Golan Heights Cabernet Sauvignon Yarden 2009. I was pleasantly surprised, since my research on Israeli wines has been…nonexistent. But now, I’ve discovered that Golan Heights Winery started a wine revolution, so to speak, within Israel. Its ability to create a brand identity for the country’s wines and motivate existing wineries to vastly improve their quality is succeeding. And the wine? After a few swirls, I inhaled aromas of dark fruit, jam, and spice. On the palate, notes of chocolate, tobacco, fresh herbs, and earth were apparent.”
Although my review was basic, a single sentence captured the essence. “…Golan Heights Winery started a wine revolution…within Israel.” Now, four years later, thanks to my encounter with Victor Schoenfeld, I have a better understanding of how.
Golan Heights Winery
Golan Heights Winery, established in 1983, has “changed the face of Israeli wines.” Its sole purpose was, and is, “to make high quality wines,” according to Victor Schoenfeld. They want to have a “firm place on the worldwide map”, a desire that appears to be happening. Golan Heights Winery has received numerous international awards including Wine Enthusiast’s New World Winery of the Year award in 2012. It encompasses three brands: Yarden, Golan Heights, and Galil Mountain.
Shoenfeld explained that vineyards are located in high altitudes, 3000-4000 feet, within a variety of microclimates. “There is a huge diversity in Israel – it’s a country that is 250 miles long. It has the most northern tropical reefs in the world and the most southern Mediterranean climate in the world. In our wines, you can taste the geography.” Rocky, volcanic soil, cold, snowy winters, and warm, dry summer days with cold, humid nights are elements that support quality in the wines. Golan Heights Winery cultivates 1500 acres of vineyards and has “the highest quality vine propagation in Israel.”
Victor Schoenfeld, Head Winemaker
Victor Schoenfeld is considered “one of Israel’s most influential winemakers.” With a degree in Enology from the University of California-Davis, he worked with major wineries in the United States, then for Jacquesson & Fils, a highly regarded Champagne house. Schoenfeld joined Golan Heights Winery in 1991 and became Head Winemaker one year later.
Investigation and discovery are crucial to achieving his goal to produce superior wines. Under Schoenfeld’s leadership, winemakers at Golan Heights Winery continue to “experiment with different varietals” and to “look at how soil types work with which varieties.” Schoenfeld shared that Golan Heights Winery is harvesting their first Pinot Gris this year. Vineyards that include Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, and more are being developed; Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot remain the foundation. The winery produces wines ranging from sparkling to full-bodied reds.
I’m impressed with the winery’s efforts of sustainability which Schoenfeld has pioneered. Due to his expertise, Golan Heights Winery is the first, and now largest, organic vineyard in Israel. The use of irrigation management, composting, wind turbines and gas saving hybrid cars are pervasive, as are routine blood tests for each employee, to ensure that they are free of toxins.
Israel now boasts almost 300 wineries, many of which have been inspired by the path that was paved by Victor Schoenfeld and others at Golan Heights Winery.
Photo credit: UC Davis
Tasting the Wines of Golan Heights Winery
Chicago’s Maple & Ash was the striking venue for a memorable lunch and tasting with Victor Shoenfeld. Upon arrival, I enjoyed a chilled glass of delicate, complex Yarden 2008 Blanc de Blancs ($32). Schoenfeld and I chatted about the “small world story” of my 2011 blog post highlighting his Cabernet Sauvignon from 2009, a story that’s worth sharing whenever I get the chance.
Fresh, bright, and structured was Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($32), the flagship wine of Golan Heights Winery. Velvet-like tannins, gentle acidity and notes of rich blackberries, cassis, and spice were chic and elegant. Paired with our dessert, Profiteroles, I couldn’t imagine anything better.
Winemaking has been evident in Israel for 6500 years. Victor Schoenfeld has helped refine that practice since Golan Heights Winery was founded, over thirty years ago. I encourage you to visit their website to learn more about this unique winery.
I’m fortunate that over four years ago I discovered that memorable Cabernet Sauvignon from Golan Heights Winery. I look forward to tasting the future.
L’Chaim~ Cindy
