It’s true. The real deal, that celebratory bubbly, the sparkling wine that sets hearts aflutter with the first sip, THAT Champagne is from Champagne, the wine growing region in France. Perhaps you already knew that simple fact – I did. But I learned much more as I luxuriated in sips of some of the most sterling examples of Champagne I’ve had the privilege of tasting. How? I was invited by the Champagne Bureau, US to an intimate luncheon, a three course Champagne pairing menu at NoMI Kitchen, followed by the annual Comité Champagne trade tasting event at The Ivy Room, featuring over 30 brands.
Champagne: The Region
Hillside homes and underground cellars dot the landscape in the four main growing regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne, Cote des Blancs, and Cote des Bar. Located about 90 miles northeast of Paris, at the northernmost zone for vine cultivation, continental and oceanic influences abound. Often, debilitating winter frosts, vast amount of sunshine in the summer, cool temperatures, and consistent rainfall are elements that affect each harvest.
Climate change is becoming increasingly evident and continues to be addressed. M. Mailloux shared that growers and producers in Champagne are decreasing the carbon footprint by reducing the number of pesticides, treating 100% of all wastewater and are “working with many research projects.” They are “revising their harvest dates to address the changing level of maturity in the grapes.” Water conservation continues to be a priority. Although irrigation is not permitted in the region, “we don’t have a water problem. Rainfall is conserved due to the extensive limestone and chalk soil.”
Sometimes, M. Mailloux stated, “the fame of Champagne, the wine, is sometimes bigger than the area.” With a limited availability of land (at an extremely high price, by the way), there is no space left for additional grape growing. Of the approximately 20,000 land owners, 5000 produce their own estate wines; the majority produce grapes, Pinot Noir, Meunier, and Chardonnay, that are sold to the large Champagne houses. Yields are decided upon prior to the harvest in order to focus on excellence, not volume. Champagne growers are focused on “consistency of quality and style through blending grapes, plots, and villages. It’s a treasure keeping the house style alive”, remarked M. Mailloux.
Champagne: Sip and Celebrate
The idea of Champagne being used as a celebratory drink, began in the court of the French royalty centuries ago as they toasted to the arts, conquests, and more. Yet, Thibout Mailloux made it perfectly clear that “there should be no barriers to drinking Champagne”. You don’t have to be royal to enjoy a glass full of bubbles.
No flutes? Pour Champagne in a whatever you choose and begin the celebration! I’ve never heard of anyone complaining about Champagne even when poured in a plastic cup. What to pair with Champagne? Anything! I love a glass or two with salads, a cheese platter, paninis, and…fried chicken or popcorn, both of which may be a bit pedestrian, but who cares? A Blanc de Blanc is delightful with seafood and sushi, a Blanc de Noir makes your roast chicken served with a sauce the best dish of all times, and a Rose is amazing with a dried fruit based dessert or chocolates.
So which celebratory Champagne did I particularly love at the tasting? Honestly, there were scores of favorites, but following are just a few selections with that “wow” factor that may prompt you to spend some time at your local wine shop. Be mindful, prices I’ve noted are average and vary depending on your location.
Charles Heidsieck 2005 Vintage Brut – No oak on this beauty of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. $85
Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs NV – Grapes are from the Grand Cru vineyard. $40
Devaux Millesime D Brut 2006 – A high amount of reserve wines lead to complexity. $55
Gosset Grand Rose Brut – Beautiful mousse in this sparkler of 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir. $45
Louis Roederer Brut Nature 2006 – Ripe fruit and natural sugar reign in this no dosage wine of 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Chardonnay. $75
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Brut Vintage 2002 – Balanced, lean, refreshing, and the bottle is gorgeous, too. $100
Paul Goerg Premier Cru Cuvee Lady 2005 – Creamy, soft, notes of brioche and marzipan were elements that suggested, “Have another sip.” $65
2015 promises to be “an exceptional year” thanks to higher quality grapes grown in small quantity. The year was “dry with no disease to affect the vines, and spring felt like summer” according to M. Mailloux. The bottles of beautiful Champagne are cellared now until their release in 2018 or 2019. We’ll simply have to be patient. And find these bottles of Champagne…from Champagne.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
