Raimund Prum on the Treasures of the Mosel

Raimund Prüm is proud to be the owner of S. A. Prüm, a historic winery located in the middle Mosel region of Germany. He should be. Not only has his family been cultivating and producing distinctive wine from the area since 1156, the wines reflect the characteristics of the many treasures of which Mr. Prüm spoke when we met at Chicago’s Paris Club Bistro. There I had the honor of enjoying an impressive four course luncheon created to pair with eight quite special wines of pure Riesling from the vineyards of S. A. Prüm.

Known as the “red Prüm” for obvious reasons, Mr. Prüm inherited the Bernkastel-Wellen estate in 1971. Since then, the wines have achieved international recognition courtesy of his business acumen as well as his ability to develop the vineyards and forge ahead with modern winemaking techniques. With total plantings of Riesling grapes at 13 hectares, the estate also includes a 100 year old building that houses the old vault cellar and event space for weddings, wine tastings, and more as well as a seemingly quite comfortable guest house for your (or my) next getaway to the Mosel.

“Our Treasures”

While enjoying a glass of Luminance 2013 ($14.99), a lovely, bone dry wine with bright acidity and notes of pineapple and green apple, Raimond Prüm shared what he considers to be the treasures of the Mosel region.

“Mosel has a great climate for Riesling.” The Mosel region and wine growing area, the most northern wine region in Germany, is a long stretch of river valley flowing from the northeast to southwest. Winters are mild because of the deep valley and river; summers are moderate and absent of much humidity. “Riesling loves warm feet but a cool head,” mentioned Raimund Prüm. The climate in the Mosel boasts a very long and extended ripening period of up to 115 – 125 days resulting in unique fruit aromas and tartaric acidity, characteristics that give their classic Riesling a personality. Of course, racy acidity, powerful fruit, length and an enormous ageing potential add to the unique qualities of the wines. The fog of late summer and autumn help create their specialty, botrytised wines.

“Long, deep root stock” is allowed to penetrate the soil, one reason that wines from this area present a complex and interesting palate profile. The best vineyards in Germany are those planted on steep slopes and those in the Mosel are among the most precipitous. Raimond Prüm stated that these “steep hills are almost Alpine-like…but there is no snow.” The slopes offer an ideal exposure to the sun; the vineyards of S. A. Prüm face southwest and the reflection surface from the river acts as a repository for heat.

In one word, Prüm remarked “slate”. The composition of the blue and red slate soil in this region varies from one vineyard site to another and the consistency of quality wines from the most revered villages may be attributed to this. Slate contributes characteristics of minerality; it is the stony slate soil that is crucial in helping to retain solar heat. Prüm feels that “Riesling is not only fruit but minerality”, an important and notable element of wines from this region.

The middle Mosel region is considered the heartland of the Mosel, an “old enormous root of history”. The Prüm name has been associated with quality wines for generations and Raimund Prüm continues to honor the tradition.

The Wines of S. A. Prüm

When the Grand Plateau of oysters, shrimp cocktail, Maine lobster, and Alaskan king crab was placed on the table at Paris Club Bistro, I wasn’t sure whether my mouth was watering in anticipation of the seafood or the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2012 ($26.99). Apparently it was due to both. Grapes were grown in gray slate soil from a single vineyard now designated as a top vineyards site by the Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter (VDP), the prestigious association whose members are among the best in Germany and who commit to producing quality grapes. Each sip proudly proclaimed minerality, pear, and apricot. Balanced with a creamy undertone, this was a delightful, light pairing with the first course, especially the succulent lobster in my most satiated opinion.

Parisian Gnocchi with pea puree, fromage blanc, and Meyer lemon was served followed by Crispy Duckling surrounded by peaches, barley, and pistou. Our first wine pairing was the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Dry Old Vines 2011 ($49.99). Another single vineyard wine, this elegant, dry wine from a sterling vintage year was hand harvested and fermented in stainless steel for two months then aged for one year in oak casks. Prüm feels that this wine could be cellared for twenty five more years. Produced from grapes grown in a different single vineyard in the Mosel was the Graacher Dompropst Riesling Grosse Gewachs 2011 ($74.99). After four months of fermentation sur lie in stainless steel, the Riesling was aged for ten more months in old oak barrels then bottled. Aromas of petrol and minerality led to tastes of stone fruit and a satin like finish. The rich gnocchi and savory duckling were complemented by these sophisticated wines. Yet, Raimund Prüm shared that the Sonnenuhr Old Vines could be enjoyed with lamb or wild boar and admitted that he has paired the Grosse Gewachs with reindeer and moose at his wife’s restaurant in Finland.

The third course consisted of Fromage de Bourgogne with imported triple crème and roasted mushrooms as well as Country Pate surrounded by pickled vegetables and country bread. Three Rieslings from the same vineyard but different vintage years were poured. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2009 ($42.99) is, in Prüm’s words, a “wine you can drink as you sit by the fireplace, share a glass, and listen to good, classical music”. The Wehlener Riesling Auslese 1999 was rich and ripe and could be considered a nightcap with a dish of crème brulee. Our last, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1995 reminded me of a classic Sherry…but it was a mesmerizing Riesling instead. With residual sugar of 94 g/L, 97.5 g/L, and 113.5 g/L respectively, I loved a sip of each Auslese with the rich and creamy cheese and pate.

Salted Caramel Profiteroles with fleur de sel and warm chocolate sauce were paired with a brilliant wine, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein 2004 ($187), with residual sugar of 133.3 g/L. Grapes were harvested during a deep frost in the wee hours of January 3, 2004 then pressed while still frozen. During six weeks of fermentation, the sugar and acidity were carefully preserved after which the wine was aged in stainless steel. Prüm feels that “this is unique because of the Atlantic climate – it is different from Austrian Eiswein” and “it could be laid down twelve to fifteen years…it will be certified by time.” The Eiswein and the dessert were lovely endings to a memorable lunch.

The Future for Raimund Prüm

Currently, the “next generation is already working hard in the winery business”; Raimund Prüm’s daughter, Saskia Andrea Prüm is the General Manager. Each year, production is expanded to the best vineyards on steep slopes along the Mosel River. Their sole importer in the United States, Palm Bay International, is poised to distribute their wines in all fifty states as well as in the Caribbean market. Already the wines of S. A. Prüm can be found in 75-80 countries around the globe. Travel on his part is ongoing in order to “work with our contacts, keep them up to date with news from the winery, and introduce and educate people about our wines.”

Raimund Prüm makes it clear that “it is very important for us to offer entry level Riesling wines for every day consumption as well as high class wines for connoisseurs and collectors.”  I couldn’t agree more.

Perhaps we should consider the Rieslings of S. A. Prüm yet another treasure of the Mosel. Perhaps Raimund Prüm already does.

Cheers~ Cindy