Of Note: The Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc Wines of Mulderbosch Vineyards

When you take a sip of Chenin Blanc, you may have thoughts of the Loire Valley where dry, light wines from Touraine and Anjou-Saumur can be found in a variety of styles from still to sparkling. In the Languedoc, winemakers in Limoux also cultivate Chenin Blanc, an ingredient in one of my favorite sparkling wines, Cremant de Limoux. But a country which boasts the largest area of all Chenin Blanc production, one that may be of a surprise, is South Africa where 20% of all vines cultivated are Chenin Blanc. In fact, the variety viticulturists termed Steen and which has been growing in the Cape for centuries was discovered in the mid-1960s to be, you guessed it, the Chenin Blanc grape.

Selected members of the Chicago trade and media welcomed Adam Mason, winemaker at Mulderbosch Vineyards in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa, when he hosted a luncheon recently at Shaw’s Crab House.  Guests had the opportunity to learn about his single estate Chenin Blanc, savor delicious pairings, and engage in lively conversation all the while appreciating his knowledge and (let me speak for myself right now…) enjoying his accent, a reminder of a suave Hugh Grant.

Adam Mason, Winemaker

Exuding unbridled enthusiasm about his work, Mason spoke of the wines, vineyards, and South Africa, his home. Experience harvesting Muscadet grapes in France for the year before enrolling in college motivated Mason to pursue a career as a winemaker. A degree in Oenology and Viticulture from Stellenbosch University and his work as a consultant in the south of France and Bordeaux fueled his passion as his resume was building. At the same time, Mason worked vintages at his home in the Cape region where he finally returned full time as a general manager and winemaker for a negociant and winemaking business.  From 2003-2011 he was winemaker at Klein Constantia where he produced their acclaimed dessert wine, Vin de Constance, and in 2008 Mason traveled to Napa Valley where he worked a harvest with Andy Erickson of Screaming Eagle.

Founded in 1989, then boutique Mulderbosch Vineyards located in the hills of the Stellenbosch gained worldwide recognition and consideration with its Sauvignon Blanc and rosés. Many award winning wines later, Terroir Capital, with well-known wine investor Charles Banks in command, purchased the winery in 2011.  A crucial item on Banks’ agenda was to find the “dream winemaker who could take the wines to the next level”. He found that winemaker in Adam Mason, who he had met in the Napa Valley during Mason’s work with Andy Erickson. Mason, who began winemaking at Mulderbosch with the vintage of 2012, shared that he is thrilled to have “the opportunity to work with Chenin Blanc”. I was able to taste why.

The Chenin Blanc of Mulderbosch Vineyards

During a delectable lunch of oysters on the half shell, lobster tacos, and a crab cake Caesar salad, Adam Mason promoted and praised the age-worthy Chenin Blanc, in particular, three selections from his single vineyard project.

As we arrived, an aperitif of Chenin Blanc Steen Op Hout 2013 ($10) from grapes grown in vineyards on the Western Cape was poured. Fruit forward aromas of tropical fruit such as papaya, mango, and grapefruit and hints of oak, minerality and more fresh fruit on the palate with bright acidity were a most welcome beginning to the afternoon. Aged in 10% new French oak and 90% stainless steel for eight months, I was surprised to learn that the Steen could be held for five to seven more years…but who would want to?

During lunch, Adam Mason explained that his single vineyard project at Mulderbosch was prompted by the fact that he wanted to “look at wines from different Stellenbosch sites made in an identical fashion”. All three vineyards of bush vines were of similar age, 33 years. After harvest, Chenin Blanc grapes from each site were destemmed, crushed, and pressed. The free-run juice settled then transferred to neutral barrels for fermentation.  There was no addition of yeast and sulfur to prevent malolactic fermentation; wines were aged on the lees in neutral French oak after which they were racked and lightly filtered prior to bottling which was done separately. The difference? Terroir. Thanks to plenty of geological activity throughout the centuries, soils in the Coastal Region where Stellenbosch is located are varied: granite, clay, schist, gravel, shale, sand, and sandstone (a red soil) are examples.

Our first wine, Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2013 was from Vineyard Block A of sandy fraction in topsoil over gravel and clay. The lightest of the three wines, Block A’s location near False Bay contributed to its freshness. The intense, pure aromas were appealing and surprising at the same time. In this well balanced wine, I found licorice and notes of pineapple and citrus, high acidity, ribbon of minerality and a creamy, clean mouthfeel.

Soils from the ancient Malmesbury Shales characterize the wines from Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc from Vineyard Block 52. Absolutely brilliant with the raw oysters, this was a “wow” wine. Mesmerizing floral aromas led to flavors of dried fruit, apricots, a whisper of vanilla, and cinnamon…the finish was long and pure.

Rich, deep, and broad, Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Chenin Blanc from Vineyard Block W boasted minerality, structure, and texture. Baking spices, wild flowers, ripe fruits, and a lasting, satin like finish reflected the sloping vineyard site of granite derived soils overlooking False Bay. Delicious.

Thirsty yet? When the 2014 vintage is released, the 2013 Chenin Blanc from the single vineyards project will be available in a three-pack for $100.  This is a fantastic price for these distinctive wines…they may just be the most satisfying Chenin Blancs I’ve tasted.

Take note. With Adam Mason leading the way, South Africa’s Mulderbosch Vineyards Chenin Blanc is award worthy and should be in everyone’s glass. You can be sure that it will be in mine!

Cheers! ~ Cindy