I have been to Spain twice. Madrid and Barcelona greeted me the first time with sunny weather which quickly became cold and rainy (yes, it was in June 2011), sexy flamenco dancing, salty jamon, refreshing cava at every turn, memorable art at the Prado, savory crustaceans enjoyed seaside, notable architecture (thank you, Gaudi), and lively tapas bars. My second visit was to the region of Murcia with fellow wine writers last summer. It was chock full of Monastrell with all of its delicious variations, winery tours, more cava, spicy paella, lingering lunches with winemakers, beautiful and diverse scenery, and glorious hot, sunny weather. Naturally the common denominator of both of these trips was wine. From dry, refreshing Cava to rich, earthy Monastrell I learned to love yet another country which expresses its culture so well through its wines and the gracious people who make it.
Spain is doing a fantastic job promoting its wine. I have received plenty of (much appreciated) wine samples and have been invited to several winemaker seminars to learn about the variety and styles of the wines and the regions from where they originate. This article is the first of several which focuses on these delicious wines from a country which in the words of Kevin Zraly, “has unlearned and re-learned how to make wine”.
You may have heard of Kevin Zraly, internationally recognized wine educator and best selling author. He was the Cellar Master then Wine Director at the Windows on the World atop the World Trade Center from 1976 – 2001. Among his numerous accomplishments are his books, Kevin Zraly’s American Wine Guide and The Ultimate Wine Companion, as well as his newest, A Glass Half Full: A Cellarmaster’s Journey Through Wine and Life. He was also the recipient of the James Beard Lifetime Achievement Award in 2011. Zraly was our entertaining moderator at the Portfolio Tasting prior to the walk around tasting as part of the Winemaker Tour hosted by Codorniu Raventos and Aveniu Brands which recently came to Chicago. This man knows wine.
The Portfolio Tasting consisted of nine outstanding wines, seven of which were from Spain, and all imported by Aveniu Brands. About forty members of the press and media, willing wine tasters all, enjoyed the wines and the banter. The Codorniu Raventos and Aveniu brands team brought the winemakers from each of these wineries in Spain, Napa Valley, and Argentina. It was not only interesting to hear about the wines from their perspective but quite fun to see the dynamics among them all. (Let’s just say that they had arrived in Chicago from Miami and “had stories” which weren’t shared!)
Arthur O’Connor, Oenology Manager at Codorniu Raventos stated “We aim to make wines that are as expressive as the places they come from; wines with a generosity of flavor that are a pleasure to drink”. I have to agree. The wines mini-reviewed below are outstanding examples of quality and style. I have included the links to the website of each winery or to Aveniu Brands site so that you can find photographs, insights into the terroir, information about the winemakers, and more.
Bodegas Y Vinedos Codorniu Raventos Portfolio Tasting
Gran Codorniu Xarel.Lo Gran Reserva 2007 – The first of three single varietal cavas, this Brut from vineyards located in a Mediterranean climate of the Penedes region showed aromas of honey, white fruit, fennel and thyme. Silky smooth with a fine mousse, the intense mouthfeel led to a lasting finish with notes of herbs. Winemaker: Bruno Colomer Marti
Gran Codorniu Chardonnay Gran Reserva 2007 – This Brut cava from vineyards with a Continental climate within the Penedes region, presented aromas of white flowers, citrus, pears, and apples which leapt from the glass. High acidity with a delicate mousse, the wine had a satisfying, lasting finish. Winemaker: Bruno Colomer Marti
Gran Codorniu Pinot Noir Gran Reserva 2007 – The Pinot Noir grapes were grown in vineyards with a Continental climate within the Penedes region. The aromas of cherries and raspberries led to savory tastes of spice, minerality, and intense notes of more red berries. The long finish was highlighted with gentle notes of smoke and candied fruit (gummy bears?). These three cavas from Gran Codorniu will continue to age in the bottle for years to come. A three-pack can be purchased for $100. Wnemaker: Bruno Colomer Marti
Raimat Xarel.Lo Chardonnay 2013 – The 50% Xarel.lo and 50% Chardonnay grapes are from the D.O.Costers del Segre, one of the youngest wine regions in Spain. I loved the aromas vanilla, nut, bright citrus, green peaches, and a touch of florals. Very smooth and balanced, this is a soft, inviting wine which was easy to drink and by all accounts, will be fantastic with food. This can be held for two more years (but you will drink it before then!). Cost is $12. Winemaker: Mark Nairn
Artesa Pinot Noir Block 91D 2012 – Artesa is part of the Beringer family of wines and is under the auspices of the Cordoniu Brand. Consisting of 100% Pinot Noir grapes from a single, estate vineyard in Carneros in the Napa Valley, this was clearly a terroir driven wine. Sweet fruit aromas of rose petals, violets, strawberries, black cherries, and red raspberries were enticing. On the palate, zesty notes of more rich red fruits partnered with cinnamon and nutmeg were multi-dimensional. The elegant finish had finesse…and was lively enough for anyone to ask for a second glass. Cost is $75. Winemaker: Mark Beringer
Bodegas Bilbainas, Vina Pomal, Alto de la Caseta 2010 – I have enjoyed and written about other wnes from Bodegas Bilbainas and was excited to try this higher end choice. 100% Tempranillo grapes from Rioja were deep, rich purple in the glass. Intense aromas of dark fruit, plums, florals, and a touch of earth led to tastes of the same coupled with medium tannins and just the right amount of acidity to keep it bright and balanced. The classy, mineral like finish was stunning. Decant the wine for maximum enjoyment! Cost is $85. Winemaker: Diego Pinilla
Scala Dei Masdeu 2011 – From the Priorat region, the 100% Grenache grapes were intense ruby red with subtle sparkles of blue in the glass. The aromas of red cherries, black fruits, and violets and notes of the same blended with toast and spice were vibrant and luscious. With its well integrated tannins and minerality, this is a refreshing, easy drinking wine. The Scala Dei Masdeu can be cellared for the next five to ten years. And when you do open, don’t forget to decant the wine! Cost is $85. Winemaker: Ricard Rofes
Legaris Tinta Fina Muestra “L” 2009 – Tempranillo grapes are in this wine from the Ribera del Duero. On the nose, spice, vegetal notes, smoke, meat, and red fruits are present. On the palate you may find fruit forward tastes, hints of stone and minerality, and obvious tannins which are integrated with the fruit, acidity, and alcohol. You can enjoy this fine wine now or cellar it for up to fifteen years. Cost is $85. Winemaker: Jorge Bombin
Septima Muestra “S” 2009 – From Lujan de Cuyo , an appellation south of Mendoza in Argentina, this 100% Malbec is incredible. I found intense aromas of plums, cherries, coffee, chocolate, and violets. Flavors of dark cherries and sweet tannins with medium acidity were complex and gave this wine plenty of structure. Kevin Zraly shared that this wine is “modern with a nod to tradition”. Ageing potential is up to ten years for this delicious Malbec. Winemaker: Paula Borgo
After tasting and enjoying these expressive wines at the Portfolio Tasting, I just had to reflect. Perhaps another journey to Spain is in order…with some side trips to Napa Valley and Argentina!
Cheers to good wine! ~ Cindy
Kevin Zraly moderates the Portfolio Tasting with plenty of wine knowledge and humor!
