Risk takers are always looking for, among other things, the next undiscovered but potentially up-and-coming place to live or hot stock to purchase. Buying a home for little money in a marginal neighborhood may not be the best idea for the moment but in the long run, it may reap financial benefits. Buying shares in a stock because you use and love it may seem ridiculous at the time, but now? I’m sure you have stories. Now, I have a tip for you. There is a wine region in Spain which you may not have heard or read about, but you should. Cigales, located in Castilla y León and stretching north along the Pisuerga River from Vallodolid may just be the next big (wine) thing. The wines I tasted from Cigales were terrific, incredibly well priced, and some are already garnering international acclaim.
Cigales DO was deemed a wine region in 1991. The region has a harsh continental climate with long hot summers and cold winters along with an Atlantic maritime influence resulting in dramatic temperature variations. Light rainfall tends to fall mostly in the spring and autumn. Not pests, but drought and frost present the most problems to the vineyards which are located at 700-800 meters on flat land. Its light brown soil, lying on a subsoil of clays and marls, lacks organic material, has weak structure and is not very rocky. These qualities don’t seem to be indicative of a notable winemaking region, do they?
However, the wines of Cigales are a real bargain, a reflection of the fact that land is inexpensive. More than half of the vines are over 60 years old thanks to a fair amount of the vineyard owners who in the past considered wine growing a hobby…many didn’t remove their old vines to replant. Consequently, the old vines with their low yield produce wines of balance, structure, depth, longevity, and power with concentrated fruit. Traditionally, wines fermented in vats were moved to earthenware jars and placed underground where they could retain cool and stable temperatures. Now, modern techniques are used and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sauvignon Blanc are being grown experimentally. During the Middle Ages, Cigales provided wine lovers with their clarets, or rosé, while Toro provided the reds and Rueda the whites. Grapes now consistently grown in Cigales are the classic reds, Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo), Garnacha, and Garnacha Gris which are already exhibiting notable ageing potential. White grapes are the Albillo and Verdejo which had been used to give the rosés their aroma. It now appears that Cigales is positioning itself for the next chapter in its winemaking history.
Recently I was asked to taste and review five wine samples from Cigales DO. All but the Rosado consist of 100% Tempranillo grapes. Crianza indicates that the wine must spend a minimum of six months in the cask and twenty four months of total ageing before release. A Reserva label means that the wine must be aged for twelve months in the cask and thirty six months of total ageing prior to release. You’ll need to open each wine thirty minutes prior to drinking.
What was enticing about these wines was not only their flavor profile, but the idea that those of us who are exploring this old yet new-to-us region through their wines may just have poured something soon to be recognized even more outside of the Spanish and European borders.
Sinfo Rosado 2012 (sample) – I’ve had a Rosado of only Tempranillo and looked forward to trying one blended with Verdejo with its aromas of nuts and laurel and Albillo, another soft, aromatic varietal. The wine was the striking color of bright strawberries with streaks of pink in the glass. Its aromas were more intense upon aeration and I noted sweet red fruits including raspberries and vanilla. On the palate, the Rosado was dry with plenty of zesty acidity, juicy cherries, more red fruit, and spice. The medium finish on this balanced wine was quite nice and food friendly especially with cheesy, juicy, spicy enchilada burgers.
Ubalinda Crianza 2009 (sample) – On the nose, I found subtle red fruits and a hint of mint. An explosion of fruit after the first sip revealed notes of juicy red berries and its finish was smooth and pleasant. This wine was delicious with manchego cheese.
Sinforiano Crianza 2009 (sample) – Cherry red in the glass, more bright cherry, blackberry, plum, and raspberry aromas led to an earthy, peppery palate profile with more red fruits, wood, and spice, ripe tannins, and a long lasting finish. This wine will be wonderful with a meaty stew or steak off the grill. At the Concours Mondial Bruxelles, the Sinforiano Crianza 2009 received a Gold Medal.
Vinea Crianza 2009 (sample) – The Vinea Crianza was absolutely delicious. Deep cherry red with traces of violet in the glass, I loved the rich aromas of cherries, raspberries, plums, mocha, cocoa, and a hint of coconut. The velvet like mouthfeel, medium tannins, and mouthwatering fruity tastes gave the wine its balance and the finish was mellow, elegant, and luscious.
Museum Reserva 2009 (sample) – My favorite wine of those tasted, the Museum Reserva, showed intense, mesmerizing aromas of red fruit, licorice, spice, and minerality. On the palate, pepper, earth notes, and ripe red fruit blended with integrated tannins and acidity to give this wine its full body and polish. The complex wine with its beautiful, lasting finish is able to complement your savory Spanish cheese platter or a juicy grilled rib eye.
You may not have yet found that someday-lucrative neighborhood or have been able to identify the next Netflix or Apple stock, but perhaps you should look for a bottle of wine from Cigales. It’s a deliciously small risk which will garner immediate benefits…to your palate.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
Alexandria Sarovich
Cindy Rynning
Eddy Smyth
Cindy Rynning