Have you had the wines from the region of Campania in Southern Italy? Exceptional wine has been made in this area since ancient times. Considered “The Emperor’s Wines”, Falernian was produced and sent to Rome prompting Pliny to write “There is now no wine known that ranks higher than the Falernian; it is the only one, too, among all the wines that takes fire on the application of flame.” Pliny Natural History 14.8 (The word “fire” indicates “light” because this white wine was aged ten to twenty years until it was the color of amber.) When I received several beautiful bottles sent to me from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe located in Irpinia, an area of Campania, I, too, felt like a member of Caesar’s inner circle!
Campania boasts more DOCGs (indicating Denominatione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) than any other region in the south and third (after Piedmont and Tuscany) in all of Italy. The region is located around the Naples area and includes the stunning Amalfi coast, captivating ancient sites such as Pompeii, and a countryside steeped in history. Three DOCGs with the greatest reputation come from the town of Avellino in the territory of Irpinia: Fiano d’Avellino, Greco di Tufo, and Taurasi.
Fiano and Greco are the traditional varieties which produce the high quality white wines Greco di Tufo and Fiano d’Avellino and are cultivated on the slopes of the Sabado River. The highly touted Taurasi DOCG red wine is made from the Aglianico grape which is grown on the hills bordering the Calore River. Many if not most wine lovers consider Taurasi the “Barolo of the South” in that it is one of the few Italian red grapes which is able to take on new oak while maintaining its floral, blackberry, and black cherry profile. This wine must be aged for three years before release.
Award winning wines from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe have been produced by the Pepe family for several generations. Currently, Milena Pepe is working diligently to help cultivate and create high quality wines. Yet, all of the members of the Pepe family are involved as well as professionals who are consulted for their state of the art techniques to help cultivate top quality grapes.
The estate, Domaine Cavalier Pepe, is located in Sant’ Angelo all’Esca. Forty hectares of vineyards are on the slopes of three communes which are part of the seventeen DOCGs: Sant’Angello all’Esca, Taurasi, and Luogasano. All red wines and the white wine, Coda di Volpe, are produced from grapes harvested in these vineyards. The land reaches to the southern slopes and southeast of the mountain side at an altitude of 300-350 metres. The soil is clay and sandy with limestone subsoil . The climate in this area presents hot and warm summers with cold, difficult, windy winters. During autumn, warm days and cold nights allow the Aglianico grape, the main variety of the denomination, a long maturation and late harvesting from mid-October to mid-November.
I loved tasting these wines sent to me as samples from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe. Each stretched my wine loving palate and featured grapes which were not only delicious but often undiscovered in the mainstream wine shop.
Bianco di Bellona 2012 (Irpinia Coda di Volpe DOC) – Shining in the glass with a pale to medium gold color, the mineral like and chalky aromas blended with pear and floral notes. On the palate, this dry, light wine displaying subtle fruit and a touch of saline was quite easy to drink! I loved its streamlined profile which paired nicely with our dinner of chicken with lemon and capers accompanied by roasted vegetables. The Bianco di Bellona consists of 100% Coda di Volpe Bianco grapes which are exclusive to this region.
Refiano 2012 (Fiano de Avellino DOCG) – This white wine with its light yellow color is from 100%
Fiano di Avellino grapes grown in the hilly DOCG area of the same name within the municipality of Lapio. Fermentation is controlled at a low temperature and aged in stainless steel tanks on a thin layer of lees then in the bottle for two more months. Floral aromas as well as those of citrus led to a dry, high acid, intensely flavored, and well balanced wine. My successful pairing which everyone at the table loved was with fresh crab and a green salad!
Nestor 2012 (Greco di Tufo DOCG) – Whereas the wines already noted were of grapes grown on chalky and clay-like soil, the 100%
Greco di Tufo in this white wine was grown on hilly, clay soil with volcanic elements (yes, Mt. Vesuvius isn’t too far away!). The intense golden color in the glass sparkled and the aromas of minerality and citrus including stone fruits were just as bright. I thoroughly enjoyed Nestor’s full body, rich and intense flavor profile including some minerality, smoke and long finish. I served this wine with roasted chicken but a lovely pairing could also be pasta with rich sauces, fish, and shellfish.
Sanserino 2010 (Irpinia Rosso DOC) –This particular wine is produced with 70%
Aglianico and 30%
Sangiovese grapes cultivated in the vineyards of
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe. Its ruby color and intensely warm aromas of deep cherry and pomegranate led to tastes of black cherry and a lingering spice on the finish. I served this on the cooler side (per recommendation) and found the dry, fresh Sanserino displayed medium tannins thanks to the addition of the Sangiovese. After fermentation, this wine aged in stainless steel tanks for ten months followed by six months in the bottle. We enjoyed this fresh, fruit forward wine one a lovely complement to our pasta dish!
Terra del Varo 2010 (Irpinia Aglianico DOC) – Blending 85%
Aglianico with 15%
Merlot created a delicious wine which I paired first with a cheese platter then with the main course of roast beef. Grown on the high altitude slopes in Irpinia, the color in the glass was a deep ruby and aromas of black fruits such as cherries and blackberries, vanilla, and spice emerged with fervor! On the palate those same dark, jammy fruits were present along with incredibly soft, smooth tannins which led to a lasting finish. Promise that you uncork the bottle around an hour before serving (as I did) to allow for oxidation and all of the flavors to be unleashed!
Opera Mia 2008 (Taurasi DOCG) – Well now…did you think I would never get to Tenuta Cavalier Pepe’s own “Barolo of the South”? I loved this wine and can’t get enough of it!! Taurasi is known as the “most prestigious wine of the Irpinia area” and Opera Mia is from grapes grown in clay like and chalky soil on high altitude hills facing south. The deep ruby red color was as enticing as the complex aromas of ripened red fruits, alcohol, smoke, game, and spice. Tasting the Opera Mia was a treat…notes of more spice and dark red fruit, vanilla, and hints of prune were mesmerizing and combined with the silky tannins and long, intense finish, I knew that my mouth was wrapped in something special! This wine is intended to be paired with roasted meats or full flavored cheeses, but you’ll have to purchase more than one bottle…you’ll want to swirl and savor every sip even before dinner!
Tenuta Cavalier Pepe is producing a variety of outstanding wines which have broadened my palate and given me new appreciation for the region of Campania, another fascinating part of our wine world! I suggest that you visit your local wine shop and ask for these wines specifically. And if you have a trip to Italy planned, you will be assured of finding the wines wherever you visit!
Cheers to the upcoming year with new wines yet to discover! ~ Cindy
**A special thank you goes to Giulia Cannada Bartoli at Le Officine Gourmet who graciously sent me these samples. Her generosity is much appreciated!**
