Yecla, at the northernmost tip of the Region of Murcia, may be famous for its furniture craftsmanship, but to me, it will always be a treasure trove of wine. You see, it is the place where I met Monastrell for the first time…and learned to love it. The “Designation of Origin” (D.O.) Yecla was created in 1975 through the efforts and dedication of the founders of Bodegas la Purisima and is considered a historical wine region.
Vineyards are located on rolling terrain between 1300 – 2600 feet above sea level. A continental climate with cold winters, warm summers, and approximately 12 inches of rainfall a year are the patterns which are perfect for these grapes to survive and flourish since the bush vines of Monastrell have adapted to the dry conditions. The land of Campo Abajo contains more clay and limestone and light, easy drinking wines with a high concentration of fruit are produced. Further, the soil of Campo Arriba is limestone and gravel and wines from this area are very concentrated with high quality and low yields.
In Yecla, Monstrell accounts for 85% of planted vineyards. Our group rallied at 7:30 a.m. and traveled from Murcia to this first of three areas in the Region for morning visits to Bodegas La Purisima and Senorio de Barahonda. And we were ready!
Our first stop (at 9:00am!) was Bodegas La Purisima, founded in 1946 and considered the largest producer of wine in Yecla with 60% of the wine production managed by those at this cooperative. Since the Cooperative opened there have been 1200 members with 280 farmers who have been or are currently bringing their grapes to the winery. 11-12 million litres of wine are produced and most is exported to China, France, Belgium, and Germany. Maria Teresa Ruiz Gonzalez is the General Manager and under her leadership, Bodegas La Purisima has obtained modern technology while honoring tradition and organic practices.
A tour of the facilities with its historic underground tanks, opportunities to take many photos (I was awestruck by the camera skills of this group of wine bloggers!), and an explanation of the Cooperative were interesting and enlightening, but it was Monastrell which had me at…the cave tasting. Jose Requena, Sales Agent in the Export Department and who has both wine and business backgrounds, described the wines and winemaking process. He was assisted by Pedro Azorin, Head Winemaker since 2002 and who has a Masters in Viticulture, Oenology, and Wine Marketing from the International Social Science Council. His family was one of the founders of Bodegas la Purisima. As Pedro states, “I took my first steps among Monastrell vineyards where my parents and grandparents taught me everything about this grape. Today, I am thrilled to be making wines at La Purisima that truly honor my ancestors”.
As we entered the large tasting area, wine bottles with beautiful and appealing labels were displayed. Jose explained that “the new labels are inspired by the fusion of wine and nature, so that we can see in each of the labels one vine arm mingling with the sea at different times of the day. To distinguish what time of day is suitable for each wine, the sun is the key so it appears on the label of white wine La Purisima (dawn), the Rose (noon), Monastrell (afternoon) and the Syrah (night). The label of Old Vines Expression is quite dark (late night) but at the edge of the label, it makes its way back to white (dawn). It then repeats the cycle of life, day after day.” Terrific concept.
**La Purisima Rose 2012 – Pink in the glass, this was the first taste of the day! A blend of Monastrell and Syrah, the aromas were of strawberries and raspberries and its tart tastes whispered more strawberries and raspberries, warm spice, and minerality. With a lovely, long finish this Rose will pair beautifully with fish or meat. The cost is around $10.
**En Esencia 2011 – Meaning “the essence” this sweet wine is made from the natural raisin of the Monastrell grape. As Jose remarked, “overmaturing of the vine results in a concentration of sugars and acids without changing the balance which is most evident in old vines with low yield”. I loved this wine with its deep cherry color in the glass and intense aromas of warm vanilla sugar with dried fruit and apricots. This wine is perfect for someone (like me!) who does not like a dessert wine which is syrupy sweet – it has just the right amount of sugar content to be delicious even with goat cheese or over ice. The chocolate-like finish begs me to consider this wine, a multiple award winner, one to watch in the United States. Its cost is approximately $22.
This stunning modern facility was the perfect blend of trending architecture and family tradition. Upon arrival our group noticed the American and Spanish flags flying side by side, a touching tribute we appreciated. This family winery has been producing and marketing wine since 1925 and is now in its fourth generation. Bodegas Antonio Candela forms part of the family group which consists of Senorio de Barahonda and Vina de Aliagar, the company which manages the family estate. In 1999, the winery began producing wine under D.O. Yecla and in 2004 the new winery, Barahonda, was built with the express purpose of producing high quality wine. Located in a zone between Spain’s central plateau and the Mediterranean Sea, the vineyards are surrounded by low mountain ranges. Its predominant variety is Monastrell, yet Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Macabeo are cultivated as well. 85% of the wine made at the facility is exported with the United States and Japan considered two of its largest markets. Wines are marketed under the brands “Barahonda”, “Carro”, and “Heredad Candela”… you may want to look for these in your local wine shop. After a quick tour of the production areas, wine tasting room, and sleek restaurant with tapas bar we took a short walk past beautiful old vines towards the gated family home where the winemaking actually started so many years ago. Greeted by their lively dog, Leo, the cart (or carro) at the entrance caught my eye. This was the cart used by Antonio’s grandfather and for which one of the wines is named.
**Barahonda Barrica 2011 – This wine is available in the United States and upon my return I was thrilled to find this in my local wine shop. Sustainably farmed, the blend of 75% Monastrell and 25% Syrah exhibited a lovely fruit flavor which was smooth all the way to the finish. Antonio remarked that “Syrah is the best grape to blend with Monastrell with its aromas and fruit”. I agree. The cost is around $15 but you may find it for less.
**VSL Monastrell 2010/2011 – Incredible. Old vines, only three months in French oak barrels, and a mouthwatering balance of earth, fruit (cherries!), tannins, alcohol, body, finish…need I write more?? This award winning wine will be a perfect pairing with steak, pork, rich tomato dishes, vegetables, pasta with sauces…Cost is $17 and I’m keeping my eye out for this wine in the United States because this was my favorite.
**Elo (Single Vineyard) 2010 – Elo was the name for Yecla many years ago and this wine of 100% Monastrell from vines planted in 1895 in chalk and limestone was complex and delicious. The aromas and flavors of this wine changed the longer it was oxidized and as I noted its minerality, I appreciated the various nuances of the Monastrell. This will retail for approximately $55 and will be arriving in the United States “soon”.
A beautiful sunny day in Yecla was the perfect atmosphere for our group, the Murcia8, to begin to learn the traditions and philosophies of the various winemakers/owners and to explore Monastrell with appreciation and in my case, love! Our next stop? We embraced lunch in true Spanish style with wines from the family of Bodegas Castano…article to be posted Monday, August 12!
Salut! ~ Cindy
Follow the link to my previous article, You’re Invited – A Virtual wine Journey to Spain’s Region of Murcia, Home of Monastrell
Bodegas La Purísima