One definition of hedonism is “the pursuit of or devotion to pleasure, especially to the pleasures of the senses”. Well, I’m certainly thinking that the pursuit is for wine in Macedonia! Let’s not forget fun loving Bacchus and all of the other gods from the ancient world who always kept handy their sheepskin or jug or extremely large container filled with the nectar! Everyone at the wines of Macedonia tasting in Chicago a few weeks ago clearly pursued the pleasure of the wines and no one was disappointed…
This article offers a brief synopsis (and I mean brief) of the wineries and my favorite wines from each table. Just follow the link provided for more in depth information and enjoy each winery’s unique position as a cultural and spiritual force in winemaking. I honestly can’t do each winery the justice they deserve so it’s up to you to gather more information and look for these wines! Which wineries were represented?
Bovin Winery – Established in 1998, this winery claims to be the first privately built winery in Macedonia. As of 2001, Bovin has grown to produce 1.5 million bottles of wine annually and their wines can be found in Europe, North America, and Asia. My favorite was the Symphony, a dry white wine from the Tikves wine region. It was a crisp blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc with fruit tones as well as woodsy notes. To be honest, the earth tones of this white wine took my lil ‘ole American palate awhile to figure out, but that’s ok with me. The Symphony will pair nicely with light meats and cheeses.
Dalvina Winery – The vineyards of Dalvina are located near Strumica which is in the southeast area of Macedonia. With a Mediterranean climate, healthy grapes along with lastest winemaking techniques are producing some mighty nice wine. On this table, my favorite was Ar-Magedon Cuvee barrique which was a combination of Vranec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. It was dark ruby, aged in domestic oak for eighteen months and will go perfectly with grilled meats or vegetables. However, you may want to cellar this big guy for around ten years…
Dudin Winery – This winery was founded in 1989 and is owned by the Dudin family. It has its own Rhine Riesling vineyards as well as a wine tasting restaurant… Yes, please! The owner designed the graphics on several of the bottles which were beautiful! I had two favorites from this table…My glass of Cabernet Sauvignon was a fruit filled bowl of wine (think Alexander the Great being fed red grapes..) of deep red berries which had just the right balance of tannins, fruit, acid, and alcohol. I also loved their Chardonnay with its unique taste of honey, grass, and tropical fruits.
Ezimit-vino – The winery was originally established in 1993 and a new winery built in 2001. Vineyards include Vranec, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Muscat, Muscat Ottonel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Output is approximately five million bottles per year. My white wine palate enjoyed their Chardonnay barrique which was quite dry, highly acidic, and aged in oak. But my (amazingly enough!) overall favorite from this winery? The Vranec barrique had minerality, tastes of red fruit, vanilla, and oak – wow! By this time, my taste buds were appreciating the nuances of the Macedonian terroir!
Chateau Kamnik – Chateau Kamnik is east of Skopje (refer to the map in my post from Thursday, June 14!) Hills are 300 meters above sea level with a southern exposure. Mountain breezes reduce the evening summer temperatures and provide warmth in the winter resulting in a microclimate perfect for the vineyards which are producing new clones of grape varieties used for the production of fine wines. Ah…my favorite from this winery was the Temjanika! This wine was pale yellow green and had floral and spicy notes with citrus and dry fruit thrown it. I’ll be looking for this one again!
Popova Kula Winery – I love this story! The winery is located west of Demir Kapija and construction was completed in 2005. The name means “The Priest’s Tower” and that tower served as a checkpoint on the old Roman road that passes next to the winery. The tower is now gone and a new tower built…and of course a winery is named after it! My favorite from this winery was the Stanushina Rose made from 100% Stanushina grapes. Its aroma and tastes were fresh with fruity raspberries and strawberries. For a rose wine, I thought this was relatively full bodied and would make a great summer sipper as well as a dessert wine. I could just see myself sipping this wine while checking out the travellers on the old Roman road…
Stobi Winery – Stobi Winery is located in Tikves and offers a wine tasting center located adjacent to the production area. Winemakers at Stobi are consistently investing in and planting new vineyards which include Zilavka, Vranec, Rhine Riesling, Italian Riesling, Pinot Noir, Zupljanka, Rkaciteli, Muscat Ottonel, and others. You need to understand that after tasting alotta wine, my mouth was absolutely “getting it” if you know what I mean, so believe it or not, my favorite wine was the Merlot! Not your mother’s Napa Merlot (and this is not at all personal to my friends in Napa because I love their Merlot, too), this was dark ruby with raspberry, blackberry, red currant tastes and a nice long finish. The vines had to have been cultivated on land over or near a temple because by this time, my wine tasting experience had become a spiritual event!
Tikves Winery – The winery originated in 1885 and was family owned at its inception. Once the government passed laws on nationalization, the owner, in 1946, passed the keys on to the state with the stipulation that the family continue to be employed. In 2003, the vineyard was purchased by M6 Partners who are investing in the winery and taking it to a higher level in winemaking and production. My palate was taken to another level by this time as well! My favorite wine from Tikves was the Bela Voda red which was a blend of Vranec and Plavec grapes. Aromas of cocoa and tastes of rich, black fruit with a long finish were fantastic and it was suggested that this wine would pair perfectly with wild meats including a boar’s leg! I will admit that I was totally in the Macedonian wine zone at this point! Grab your bows and arrows…I need some pheasant!
So after a few hours of chatting, learning, and tasting, my American palate became more accustomed to the unique position of Macedonia and their wine. If pursuing the pleasure of their wine is a form of hedonism, so be it! It was a wonderful way to spend a rainy evening in Chicago…with the bright and shining stars (yes, the sun, their national symbol, is a star if you recall…) of Macedonian wine. But now that I think about it, perhaps their national symbol should be wine instead! Just a suggestion…
Наздравје ~ Cindy
