In March, I had an unexpected and delightful taste of Lebanon…in the form of a wine from Massaya Winery served at house red (and yes, the name is in lower case letters) in the Chicago area. Having never tasted a wine from Lebanon, I researched the area (Tanail in the Bekaa Valley), the winery from which it was made, and the people who made it – then wrote a tasting note of the wine I enjoyed and short article about Massaya (see link above). Another unexpected and delightful experience? In April, I had the opportunity to sit down, enjoy wine and appetizers, and chat with one of Massaya & Co. owners and winemaker, Ramzi Ghosn!
We met one April evening after my work and after Ramzi had done his share of Michigan Avenue shopping for items to take back to Lebanon for the restaurant, Le Relais, at Massaya. (Le Relais is located in the middle of the Massaya vineyard and serves country fare prepared by housewives of the village…along with the wine, of course!!) Having arrived early, I had only moments to wait before Ramzi walked into the hotel lounge area with briefcase in hand, casual jacket, and cream fedora…yes, I knew it would be him – very cosmopolitan, handsome, and not the typical Chicago lookalike!
At once we began talking – about his background, the story of Massaya, the winery itself, and future plans. Quickly, it became obvious that this was a man of passion about his family, his country, and the winery. And this passion is just what drives him to share the story of Massaya.
Ramzi was in the United States – Boston, Chicago, and Los Angeles – to meet potential buyers. He remarked that he felt that the people in these cities are open to new wines and are well educated. Already some of his wines are in several restaurants and wine shops in Chicago as well as other cities (so look for them!). He was booked for several engagements at a variety of wine bars and was able to recommend a few which were new to me! What I also didn’t know, was that Ramzi actually spent a period of time in Chicago obtaining his Masters degree from one of our universities, so I guess I didn’t have to bring him up to speed about the Cubs, White Sox, or jazz clubs! This city held plenty of memories for Ramzi~
The war in Lebanon which began in 1975, forced his family to move frequently in order to find housing away from the war zone. When the brothers were of college age, they traveled to France for their education. In 1992, Ramzi, having just finished his Master’s degree, and Sami, who by now was an architect, met at O’Hare Airport in Chicago to finalize some plans. By this time, they had made a decision to return to Lebanon and reclaim the Tanail family estate which had been a positive part of their lives as young boys – it had been used as a weekend home with hunting, relaxing, sharing dinners, wine, and dancing with friends and family – often lasting for a few days. Prior to his departure from New York, Sami gave up his green card as a vow of commitment to the endeavor and returned to Lebanon. To minimize the risk, Ramzi retained his and started a job in France with hopes that he, too, could join his brother… if everything went as planned. Fortunately, Sami was able to re-establish the land and estate which had been ravaged by the war and Ramzi returned to Lebanon as well – never expecting that their family estate would become Massaya winery.
*Passion for his family? Of course. When we were discussing his family – parents, brother, events as a child and as a young adult, Ramzi shared that it was difficult to move frequently and the stress of the war took its toll. He spoke wistfully of the times at the estate at Tanail and I know that Sami and Ramzi have shared and will continue to share amazing experiences. And the story of returning to Lebanon in the early 1990s and re-establishing life in Tanail is a testament to the passion for family.
*Passion for Lebanon? Absolutely. Ramzi feels that their biodynamic winemaking practices are helping to reverse the neglect of the land and “environmental abuses of past generations”. Ramzi explained that the Phoenicians spread knowledge peacefully and were well accepted as they traveled to and from the Mediterranean countries. In fact, the Phoenicians, “seafaring winemakers”, taught others how to choose the vines, grow the grapes, and the process of fermentation. Ramzi makes it perfectly clear that those investing in the Lebanese wine business understand that they are making a cultural statement rooted in the history of the Phoenicians.
*Passion for the wine of Massaya? Without a doubt. Ramzi and Sami have partnered with Frederic and Daniel Brunier of Chateauneuf du Pape and Dominique Hebrard in Saint Emilion, Bordeaux. Ramzi considers these gentlemen good friends as well as business associates who are helping to provide technical expertise. Currently, Massaya produces one white, one rose, and three reds along with arak, which Ramzi confidently states is “the best aniseed spirit in the world”! Because of the lack of regulation, Massaya relies on their expertise, honesty, and character to instill confidence in the consumer. If anyone visits Massaya, they are offered a full tour of the arak distillation area because the Ghosn brothers believe that “transparency reinforces trust”. I couldn’t agree more~
But during the course of our conversation, the most meaningful and telling statement that Ramzi shared with me that April evening in Chicago was this…
“Before we returned to Lebanon, there were memories but not possibilities. Now we have possibilities and memories.”
Cheers~ Cindy
Please note: On Thursday, May 24, I will publish an article about the wines of Massaya which I enjoyed three days later at house red where Ramzi was hosting a tasting…. and one week from today, Monday, May 28, more information and my tasting notes about Massaya’s arak, Lebanon’s noble drink~
