Arak. Believe it or not (but believe it…) this is a word I heard for the first time from Ramzi Ghosn, CEO and Winemaker of Massaya & Co. from the Bekaa Valley, Lebanon. I had the opportunity to share some wine and appetizers with him in April in Chicago and was mesmerized by his passion for Lebanon, the wines of Massaya and …arak, Lebanon’s “noble drink”.
If you think I’m writing about just another wine, think again. Arak is an aniseed flavored spirit made from grapes although I have read that dates, sugar, plums, figs, and molasses may be used depending on the region. Lebanese arak is touted to be the best in the Middle Eastern countries and after talking with Ramzi, I am confident that Massaya’s arak is the drink of which he is the most proud.
Made from Obeidi grapes which are hand harvested in September, destemmed mechanically, then gently crushed in mechanized presses, the juice is fermented for about fifteen days using both traditional methods and new technology. After fermentation, the juice becomes wine~ After resting, the white wine undergoes triple distillation in traditional Moorish lid copper stills. The first distillation creates alcohol, the second removes impurities, and the third gives the arak its unique qualities. Now for the ageing process…Unaged arak is collected in clay amphorae from the potters of Beit Chebab, a Mount Lebanon village. The amphorae are porous and allow the arak to breathe since some of the liquid is absorbed. The ageing period may last many months during which time some of the alcohol evaporates and the clay gives a slightly gold appearance to Massaya’s arak. What separates this spirit from absinthe, raki, ouzo, pernod, or pastis perhaps? High quality brandy is made out of fermented grapes, although labor intensive the Moorish copper still ensures that the best aromas and flavors of the grape alcohol are evident, and fresh green aniseed grown locally is used in Massaya’s arak. And why is arak termed Lebanon’s noble drink? Back in the day, since the copper still was expensive to purchase, only the wealthy were able to produce arak – it was an indication of “success and sophistication”.
Massaya’s website is thorough and well written with specific information about their arak. To serve Lebanon’s noble drink, pour one part arak, then two parts fresh water, and follow with ice cubes. Arak is served with mezze which is the Middle Eastern equivalent of tapas or small plates. Ramzi explained that traditionally, arak was served with foods of the summer diet such as parsley, meat, tomatoes, lemon. Of course, now, arak is served with a variety of small plate choices and can also be an ingredient in mixed drinks, salad dressings and ice cream- the recipes for which are on the website! And word on the street is that you definitely need to eat when drinking the arak!!
I tried arak with family this past weekend ~ Thoughts?
- I poured one part arak then the two parts water after which the clear arak turned a milky color before the ice was added. This prompted Mr. Grape-Experiences to state “Maybe I should drink this instead of milk!” And yes, he loved it!
- Another guest took a taste and immediately announced that it tastes like licorice. Yep!
- Only one guest who wasn’t fond of licorice didn’t like the arak.
- The rest of us found it “pleasant”, “refreshing” and “not overwhelming”.
- I served Massaya’s arak with appetizers, but I would definitely consider this an after dinner drink as well.
- Everyone who tasted the arak (and liked it!) wanted another glass!
El Massaya means dusk and the deep blue bottle containing arak is the same color as that Lebanese sky. One day I hope to visit Lebanon and Massaya’s winery. Until then, I’ll have to enjoy the arak and wonderful wines of El Massaya.
Thank you, Ramzi, for opening up a new world of wines and spirits to us all ~ I guess you could call it another way to find World Peace…one glass at a time~
Cheers ~ Cindy
Habib Francis