Thirsty for a Change? Pour White Wines of Alentejo

Many wine lovers are satisfied to have a glass or two of their favorite wines. Drinking what we like is always a smart choice – usually, there are no surprises. (Trust me, I have my default wines that never disappoint.) There are times, though, when it’s exciting to broaden the palate with sips of wines not only made in different wine regions, but with that region’s native grapes. If you’re a regular reader of my site, you that that I’m always thirsty for a good glass of wine and more often than not, what’s in my glass is something unique. Just recently, I tasted six white wines (sent as samples) from Alentejo in Portugal. Affordable, food friendly and downright delicious, these wines are worth a pour in your glass, too.

Alentejo is in South Portugal

The area of Alentejo covers much of the southern half of Portugal (about 1/3 the country’s size) – only about 5% of the land is covered with vines. Considering that the country of Portugal is about the size of Indiana or Maine, the region of Alentejo isn’t vast by American standards. As a comparison to a European country, it’s approximately the size of Belgium.

Northern Alentejo, around the city of Portalegre and towards Spain, is mountainous and cooler than other parts of the region. Wide rolling terrain and a hot climate are found in the central portion of the region and the southern area offers plenty of sun for its grapes to ripen. Soils vary greatly in Alentejo. Schist, granite, limestone, and pink marble may be atop a sub-layer of water-retaining clay. From the north to the south and the east to the west, travelers may view olive groves and cork forests, sunflowers, wheat, corn, lavender fields, livestock…and wide-open spaces. I was surprised to learn that less than 5% of the Portuguese people live in the Alentejo.

Three administrative districts (Beja, Evora, and Portalegre) comprise the Vinho Regional Alentejano (VR). Within the VR, DOC Alentejo wines can be produced in eight higher classified sub-regions: Portalegre, Borba, Redondo, Vidigueira, Requengos, Moura, Evora and Granja/Amareleja. Each area adheres to strict governmental guidelines. Many regional wines are assigned the name Vinho Regional Alentejano and are produced outside of the DOC enclaves. A wide variety of grapes, including international varieties, are allowed in wines with this designation on the label.

A Selection of White Wines from Alentejo 

Antão Vaz is the most important white grape in the region due to its ability to withstand the hot Alentejo climate, to be resistant to disease and drought, and to consistently produce aromatic, structured, full-bodied wines. Often bottled as a single varietal, wine lovers may note juicy tropical fruit and minerality with each sip. White grapes also cultivated in the region include Arinto with its crisp profile and minerality, Fernão Pires that produces fragrant, perfume-like aromatics, Verdelho that’s highly acidic with a creamy, full-bodied palate leading to an ability to age, and Roupeiro (also known as Malvasia) boasting striking fragrances and a palate rife with citrus, stone fruit, and floral notes.

Refreshing Herdade do Esporão Colheita Branco 2021 ($18), is produced from estate grown grapes, Antão Vaz, Vosinho, Alvariño and others, in organically certified vineyards of schist rock with loamy clay. The wine was partially fermented in concrete tanks after which it was left on the lees for four months. The result was a creamy and fresh wine with tropical fruit aromas and flavors – a delight to sip. (For my article about Herdade do Esporão, click here.) 

From the terraces of Rocim Winery, it is said that you can see the tower of Beja Castle where Mariana Alcoforado, a cloistered nun, wrote to her lover – she authored the classic book “Letters of a Portuguese Nun”. Herdade do Rocim 2020 Mariana Branco White Alentejano ($16) is an acknowledgement of this local icon. Native varieties Antão Vaz, Arinto and Alvariño were blended to produce a wine with intense aromas of hyacinth, freshly squeezed lemon, spice, hint of honey and ripe citrus. The palate, with its gentle acidity and minerality, offered rich and broad flavors of kiwi, lime sorbet, salinity and florals. Romantic and refreshing, this was indeed an homage to Mariana.

Marquês de Borba Colheita White 2021 ($13) is of Arinto, Antão Vaz and Viognier grapes cultivated on limestone and schist soil. Pale yellow in the glass, I found gentle citrus and mineral notes on both nose and palate. Balanced with just-right acidity, the finish lingered. One of the brands of João Portugal Ramos, Marquês de Borba is considered to blend quality with the tradition of Alentejo since its first vintage in 1997. The brand’s name is that same as one of João Portugal Ramos’ uncles who had the noble title of Marquês de Borba, created in 1811.

Tart and tangy, Torre de Palma Arinto & Alvariño 2021 ($40) is a 50-50 split of Arinto and Alvariño. Thanks to notes of tropical fruit, green apple, lemon peel and stone fruit on the nose and palate, the wine was memorable. Present throughout was vibrant acidity, but not in an overpowering manner. Grapes were grown in vineyards of calcareous clay soil and aged in French oak.

Adega de Redondo Porta da Ravessa Special Edition White 2020 ($15) is of Verdejo, Arinto and Antão Vaz grown on mainly granite and some schist and clay/limestone soils. In the glass, the lemon color had streaks of green – enticing. On the nose, I found intense fruit aromas followed by a rich and balanced palate bursting with citrus and snappy acidity. The brand, Porta da Ravessa, was “inspired by the iconic door of the secular Castelo de Redondo where the marks of the Vara and the Covado are still visible today.” It reflects the “historical heritage and identify of this region.”

Adega de Portalegre Winery Conventual DOC Reserva White 2018 ($25) is of Arinto, Fernão Pires, Syrah and Bical. On the nose and palate, juicy tangerine, lime peel, spice, touch of honey, and minerality were brilliant. Fresh with laser-like acidity and a lingering finish rounded  out this broad and rich white wine. Adega de Portalegre Winery was founded in 1954 by a small group of regional winemakers. Vineyards are at an altitude between 600-700 metres and the average age is 70 years. Award winning wines have solidified the winery’s reputation. In fact, grapes in the Conventual Reserva brand are from the “best vineyards in the region and with ageing in French and American oak barrels, the wines have been considered, several times, the best Alentejo wine in the last 25 years.”

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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