What path did Katy Wilson, founder of LaRue Wines, follow? From roots as a small-town farm girl growing up surrounded by walnut orchards, she’s now a talented, recognized winemaker in Sonoma County. I had the opportunity to chat with Katy a few weeks ago to uncover the answers to that question. What I discovered is that Katy is the consummate multi-tasker, exudes passion for her craft and never takes for granted the role of her great grandmother, Veona LaRue, who was a source of inspiration.
Katy at LaRue Wines produces elegant, high-end Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from grapes cultivated in select vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Katy Wilson founded the winery in 2009 and has maintained production of around 500 cases. Hands on from sorting fruit to bottling, Katy’s is a marvel and clearly someone to know. Read on for more.
Katy Wilson – Photo Credit: LaRue Wines
GE: Katy, where did you grow up?
KW: I’m from Manteca in California’s Central Valley. I grew up on a farm of 15 acres with walnut orchards. Agriculture was my life and our family was hands on, doing everything from hauling hay to whatever was needed. I attended Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo.
GE: Could you tell us a bit about your great-grandmother who inspired you?
KW: Veona LaRue, my great-grandmother, always said that hard work pays off and I’ve never forgotten that. She passed away at 98 years old, but I had already started LaRue Wines, named after her of course, so she knew what I was doing.
GE: How did you decide to be a winemaker?
KW: During my Ag Business 101 class at Cal Poly, I realized that wine classes were available and I was interested. It’s agriculture, too and of course, I knew that I could create something completely different… and it’s social! I graduated with a double major in Agricultural Business & Wine and Viticulture. My thesis was a business plan for LaRue because I knew I wanted to do this, but at the time never dreamed that it would become a reality. My parents were entrepreneurs and very supportive.
After graduation, I traveled for two and a half years in the Northern and Southern hemispheres. I worked at Joseph Phelps, Craggy Range, Los Gatos, Flowers and Kamen in Sonoma. I began work at Kamen when I was 26 years old. While there, it was suggested to me that if I wanted to make my own wine, I could use the facility… but I had no money! As luck would have it, another winemaker gave me a loan which I paid back! LaRue Wines was started in 2009.
Photo Credit: LaRue Wines
GE: Are you working only at LaRue now?
KW: In 2012, I was still working full time at Kamen, doing LaRue wines and began a wine consulting business, too. I left Kamen in 2014 and now, I consult for Smith-Story Wines, Reeve Wines and Anaba Wines as well as work full time at LaRue. My production facility is at Anaba Winery where I produce 500 cases per year and sell direct-to-consumer (DTC) only. I’m hands-on with no intervention in the vineyard and since LaRue is small, I walk the vineyards and haul the grapes myself, talk to wine club members and keep it personal.
Photo Credit: LaRue Wines
GE: Can you tell us about the two wines you graciously sent to me?
KW: The Chardonnay is from grapes sourced in the Charles Heitz vineyard in Occidental. In 2014, I convinced Charlie to give me one row of fruit and he did. The vineyard was planted in the 1980s and the coastal influence can vary from vintage to vintage, but the minerality is always there. The Pinot is from the Rice-Spivak vineyard located south of Sebastopol near the coast. This vineyard was planted in 1999 and I love the earth notes on the wine. The 2017 vintage can age up to ten years. (For more information about the vineyards, click here.)
2018 Chardonnay Charlies Heintz Vineyard offered aromas of buttercream, golden apple, vanilla and herbs. On the palate, vibrant acidity was brilliant as were flavors of tropical fruit, hint of eucalyptus, vanilla, subtle oak and minerality. 2017 Pinot Noir Rice-Spivak Vineyard was rich and broad with spice, crushed red fruit, dried leaves and black cherries on the nose. Savory with bright acidity and integrated tannins, the red fruit, spice and earth notes on the palate led to a lush, lingering finish.
GE: What about the challenges you’ve had to face?
KW: Being a young woman starting a winery, the biggest challenge has been being how to be taken seriously. Right now, I’m 8 months pregnant and people wonder if I’m “less than” because I’m pregnant.
NOTE: Katy is committed to engaging in open and honest conversations about the stigmas that women still face. She currently serves on the Advisory Board of WOW (Woman-Owned Wineries) Sonoma, a collective founded in 2017 to help foster greater equity in the wine industry and supports Batonnage, a forum whose motto is “stirring up the conversation on women in wine.”
“Change doesn’t happen overnight. It starts with initiating a dialogue and recognizing the issues. And it gains momentum when small changes are consistently and consciously made across the collective industry,” says Katy. “While we haven’t overcome all the issues yet, I feel confident in the progress that we’ve made and empowered to continue as an example and advocate for change.”
GE: You’ve said the “juggle is real” and soon you’re having a baby! How are you managing?
KW: I have lots of notes and calendar reminders!
GE: What future plans do you have for LaRue Wines… and yourself?
KW: I will continue to make wine and keep everything small and personal. I also want to continue to consult. It’s dynamic and a way to keep the finger on the pulse of the growing season. As for me, I just want to take a relaxing beach vacation for about a week and only sip Champagne!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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