Appellation St. Helena – Taste the Wines, Discover the Region

Where can you find a Napa Valley wine region with 12,000 acres of which 6800 are under vine – more than any other AVA in the Valley? If you guessed Appellation St. Helena, you’re correct. This unique area in the world is located 20 miles north of the San Pablo Bay, north of Rutherford and south of Calistoga. Tucked between the Mayacamas and Vaca Mountain ranges, the area is defined by Zinfandel Lane to the south, Bale Lane to the north, the intersection of Howell Mountain and Conn Valley Road to the east, and the 400-foot elevation line in the Mayacamas on the west. Within the appellation are over 400 different vineyards on which Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc are grown.

There are 21 different soil types thanks to hundreds of years of mountain runoff that caused many active and inactive waterways on both sides of the valley. This range of soil composition is quite unique to the St. Helena AVA where vineyards can be found on mountain bench-lands, ancient alluvial fans, and on the Valley floor that reaches towards the Napa River. Of course, let’s not forget the abundant sunshine and unusual hourglass shape of the region itself. Both contribute to a wide temperature shift during the growing season whereby heat from the sun during the day warms the vineyards and at night, “slender width funnels” temper the breezes that cool the vines, often by 40 to 50 degrees. Appellation St. Helena receives approximately 40 inches of rain during the year.

History buffs will most assuredly appreciate the area’s story. “The St. Helena AVA was officially approved in 1995. More than a century earlier, St. Helena had the distinction of being the birthplace of Napa Valley’s commercial wine industry with Dr. Crane’s cellar founded in 1859, David Fulton’s in 1860 and Charles Krug’s in 1861. In 1875 Charles Krug, Henry Pellet and Seneca Ewer organized the expanding group of local vintners and grape growers with the mission of working together to improve the quality of the wines coming from St. Helena, and in turn improving the reputation and demand for the wines.  The group called themselves the St. Helena Viticultural Club, later to be changed to the St. Helena Viticultural Society, and worked together with great success until around 1912. In 2004, a group of St. Helena vintners revived the organization and later changed the name to Appellation St. Helena.” More details can be found here.

Currently, there are scores of growers and wineries that are members of the Appellation St. Helena organization. (The full list is found here and I guarantee you’re already familiar with many.) Sent as samples to me were a few wines that exemplify the offerings of this diverse, unique, and exciting area, one that I look forward to visiting as soon as I can.

Battuello Vineyards was founded in 1909 by Matteo Battuelllo who immigrated from Northern Italy and made his way to California. After purchasing property in St. Helena, he started farming grapes, prunes, and walnuts. Soon thereafter, Battuello planted Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Mondeuse Noire, Carignan, Napa Gamay (Valdiguié) and Alicante Bouschet.  In 1912, his wife Serafina joined him in St. Helena. Now, fourth generation member Craig and his son, Dave, operate and manage Battuello Vineyards, now consisting of 82 acres, while advancing the family’s legacy of producing premium grapes for award winning wines.

Intriguing and delicious were two wines, sent as samples, of Valdiguié otherwise known as Napa Gamay. The 2019 Valdiguié Rosé ($28) has been a classic at the estate for decades and I tasted why. The wine burst with aromas and flavors of strawberries, raspberries and ripe melon. Refreshing and fruit-forward, everything about this wine was incredibly satisfying. Likewise, the 2018 Valdiguié ($45) offered a balanced and food friendly palate profile with bright cherry notes, vanilla, and touch of oak on the nose and palate.

It was a treat to receive wine from Corison Winery where Winemaker and Founding Partner Cathy Corison and her husband William, Partner, produce stellar Cabernet Sauvignon that oozes a sense of place with each sip. In 2020, Corison was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Wine, Beer or Spirits Producer – it was her third year in a row to receive this accolade. As a celebration, she has highlighted her 2016 Corison St. Helena, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($120) and I was graciously sent a bottle as a sample to keep the festivities going!

This “near-perfect vintage” helped produce a wine that was rife with aromas of fruit, cinnamon, cloves, and dried flowers. On the palate, I found tart cherries, just-picked blackberries and blueberries, dark and juicy plums, mint, cedar, and dried herbs on a foundation of zesty acidity and firm tannic structure. Complex and lush, Cathy Corison’s 2016 Cabernet is one to seek. Trust me, this small, family-owned working winery is a must-visit for anyone wishing to explore Appellation St. Helena.

I was quite impressed with two wines, sent as samples, from Saint Helena Winery. The winery was founded in 2000 in order to “promote estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon that appeals to curious and cultured wine buyers looking beyond big wine brands for new discoveries. Our wines are for people who collect and enjoy rare items for personal indulgence.” Clearly, I was ready to indulge and experience the craft of Consulting Winemaker Aaron Pott and Winemaker/Vineyard Manager Lindsey Wallingford. Currently, three Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, a Chardonnay and a “few very small lots of estate specialties” are available.

The exceptional profile of 2015 Sympa Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($135, yet contact the winery for availability and current cost) reflected the nuances of the vineyards’ loam and gravel soils. Intense aromas of currants, blueberries, herbs, and spice were fresh and enticing. On the palate, more than satisfying notes of ripe red and black fruits, spice, and lick-the-rock sensation of minerality were round and rich… plus framed with soft tannins and generous acidity. Next, 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($99) was a glorious expression of the variety that flourished in that sterling vintage year. Balanced, elegant and polished, intense aromas of lavender, plums, Earl Grey tea, black cherries and baking spice led to flavors of flint, blackberries, earth, cedar and meat. Mouthwatering acidity and integrated tannins provided a stage on which this wine sang.

“Although there is no specific winemaking style in the appellation, the wines here often have similar characteristics because of the growing conditions. Such identifiers include pure blue to black fruits that are deeply layered and devoid of green characters, concentrated coloring, good structure with balanced acid, ripe, luscious tannins with soft edges, and a supple, elegant texture,” state those at Appellation St. Helena. With a glass of wine from this distinctive region in the glass, we can discover all of the above… and so much more.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more Grape Experiences and a free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” click here.

You may also be interested in the following articles I’ve written about wineries who are members of Appellation St. Helena.

Looking Back, Looking Forward: A Chat with John Benish of Benessere Vineyards 

Prestige and Excellence – Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 

A Chat with Reagan Blackwood, Third Generation at Rombauer Vineyards