Touraine-Chenonceaux – Where Wine and History Reign in the Loire Valley

Wines from the Loire Valley satisfy my wine-cravings every. single. time. I always know that I can find a wine that’s delicious and food friendly, thanks to the diversity of the Loire Valley in terms of varieties cultivated and styles produced.

You want something that sparkles? There’s a Crémant for that! A flavorful white wine? You’ll find Melon de Bourgogne, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc as well as Chardonnay, Arbois, Pinot Gris and Romorantin. A red wine? How about Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Côt (the word for Malbec) along with Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Grolleau Noir and Pineau d’Aunis. And a sweet dessert wine? A glass or two from Anjou-Layon is the perfect choice!

Many already know that I learned to love and appreciate wine years ago when I visited the Loire Valley during a summer abroad in college. Since that first wine “crush”, I’ve returned to this beautiful region several times and have had incredible experiences. During my visit in March 2018, I explored the rich history, wines and foods from Touraine-Chenonceaux within the AOP Touraine. (Touraine, Anjou and Saumur in the Middle Loire are in the center of the “Garden of France” where breathtaking chateaux and magnificent gardens abound.)

Photo Credit: Vins-de-Loire

The region is naturally linked to Château Chenonceau that straddles the river Cher. This iconic Château is famous for its unique Gothic and Renaissance architecture and storied history. Founded on the pilings of a mill in the early 16^th century, Thomas Bohier, financial minister in Normandy, completed the Château in 1522.

Confiscated by King Francis 1 in 1535, the Château passed through the hands of several French royals…for a variety of reasons, as you can imagine. It was extensively restored in the 19^th century, purchased by Cuban millionaire José-Emilio Terry then sold by his descendents to Henri Menier, a member of the family known throughout France for their chocolates. The Menier family continues to own Château Chenonceau.

During World War I, the long gallery at the Château was used as a hospital ward. In 1940, when the river Cher flooded, the gardens were destroyed. During World War II, the town of Chenonceaux was occupied by the Germans who subsequently bombed the Château. (An interesting fact is that Château Chenonceau was used by residents of the village and others to escape from the Nazi occupied zone on one side of the river Cher to the “free zone” on the opposite side!) While still occupied by the Germans, the Château was bombed by the Allies on June 7, 1944.

In 1951, the Menier family asked restoration expert Bernard Voisin to return the stunning Château to its true glory. If you’ve never visited this iconic beauty, you must.

Viticulture in Touraine-Chenonceaux

Vineyards in Touraine-Chenonceaux grow on slopes on both sides of the river Cher. After the grapes are harvested, the wines are vinified then aged within the designated appellation area that includes eight communes in the Indre-et-Loire département and nineteen in Loir-et-Cher. Vineyards are planted on slopes with natural drainage and an open landscape. Soils are mostly limestone, siliceous clay and perruches which are flint-based, stony soils found in much of the Loire Valley.

White wine production of Sauvignon Blanc (or simply, Sauvignon) dominates the region. In general, Sauvignon is intensely aromatic with notes of white flowers, ripe citrus and tropical fruit notes. With plenty of body on the palate, wines offer power, structure and a lingering finish.

Major red wines produced are Cabernet Franc and Côt, distinctive and elegant varieties that suggest notes of cooked fruit compote, anise, and menthol. Freshness and elegance are prevalent with each sip.

During my last trip to the Loire Valley, in March of 2018, I visited Domaine Jacky Marteau in Touraine-Chenonceaux. Ludivine Marteau is co-owner of this 27-hectare Domaine in Pouille along with her brother Rudolphe. The siblings are 4^th generation members of the family and were handed the reins to the Domaine after their father retired in 2010.

Domaine Jacky Marteau – Family

Ludivine explained that the Domain’s vineyards, on the left bank of the rivers Cher and Loire, “face different directions and are sustainable and not organic. Fungus is a real problem and Domaine Jacky Marteau replaces many vines a year because of it.” She and her brother, plus a team of three full time employees, “bottle the wines when needed and label them when they receive an order.” Currently, 165,000 bottles are sold each year. 60% of sales are in Italy, Canada, Belgium, Netherlands, United Kingdom and the United States (Seattle, California, Georgia, New York). 15-20% of sales are direct to consumer and 10% are from retail and restaurant sales.

A drive through the rain to visit the vineyards at Domaine Jacky Marteau

After a rainy drive through the vineyards and a visit to the winery, formerly the family home for many generations, we tasted a few selections at the tasting room. Sauvignon is their signature wine and the 2017 offered aromas and flavors of grapefruit, citrus aromas and a burst of minerality. La Chipie 2016 of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, in the classic Chenonceaux bottle, was aged at least nine months. Fruit forward with steely minerality, only 5000 bottles were produced. (The name La Chipie is an homage to Ludivine’s niece, Lola.)

Red wines included the Touraine Gamay 2016 that went through carbonic maceration in underground tanks. “Gamay is our main red variety,” shared Ludivine. Soft and fruit-forward, the wine was rife with body and elegance. The Tandem 2015 of 60% Côt and 40% Cabernet Franc offered rich and broad notes of spice and red fruit. As you may expect, the name Tandem indicates the like-minded spirit of Ludivine and Rudolphe as they propel Domaine Jacky Marteau towards the future.

Wine and Food from Touraine-Chenonceaux

What grows together, goes together are favorite words to live by. And for good reason. White wines from Touraine-Chenonceaux are exceptional complements to any firm-fleshed fish, especially those from the Loire River. Try a glass of Sauvignon with a classic Trout Amandine (click here for the recipe), bass or catfish. White meat and local goat cheeses are exceptional pairings and if you’re ready to be adventurous, enjoy sushi, curry or tagine. If opening a red wine from the region, consider veal, game, chicken with a savory sauce, thick cut of fish or anything with smoky bacon, then relish in a plethora of flavor sensations.

Lunch in Chenonceaux

Just this week, I opened a bottle of 2016 Domaine du Vieil Orme Sauvignon “Infini” Touraine Chenonceaux Blanc ($16), sent as a sample, to complement baked salmon with herbs, spices and a spritz of lemon. The family owned winery, dating from 1804, is found in a small village named St-Julien-de Chédon. Laurent Benoist has led the winery towards sustainable farming and wines expressing characteristics of terroir since 2009.

On the nose of this lush Sauvignon, I found intense aromas of grapefruit, juicy golden apple and dew-dropped grass. The palate, full-bodied and balanced with vibrant acidity, presented fruit-forward notes of banana chips, orange peel, lime zest, ripe peaches and apples. Each satisfying sip reminded me that a return to Touraine-Chenonceaux for another taste of delicious wine and exploration of fascinating Loire Valley history must happen as soon as possible.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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Discover more about the Loire Valley with the following articles by my French #Winophiles colleagues.

• Muscadet is Not Muscat, Gabure Bigourdane, and (Our Version of) Faire Chabròl | Culinary Adventures with Camilla
• Thierry Michon and Domaine Saint Nicolas – Biodynamic Loire Wines #Winophiles |Savor the Harvest
• Savennières and Vouvray: Two Tastes of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc | The Swirling Dervish
• Sweet Wines from the Loire | Avvinare
• Made it to Dessert with a Vouvray | Keep the Peas
• A Vineyard Visit: Organic Clos du Tue-Boeuf with Thierry Puzelat and his Sauvignon Blanc paired with a savory summer tart | Wine Predator
• Turkey and Cabbage Skillet Recipe with Pouilly-Fumé | Cooking Chat
• Enjoying Summer Food with Chinon Wine and a Fun Book | A Day in the Life on the Farm
• Cooking to the Wine: “Brendan Stater-West Saumur Les Chapaudaises and Chicken Thighs with Apples and Onions | Somm’s Table
• Summer Sipping: B&G Chenin Blanc and Crispy Baked Pork Chops | Our Good Life
• Montlouis-sur-Loire – 2 Rivers, 3 Zeros and some delicious sparkling wine #Winophiles | Crushed Grape Chronicles
• Exploring the Loire Valley From My Balcony with #Winophiles! | The Quirky Cork
• Funky Loire Pet Nat was born for goat cheese pizza | My Full Wine Glass
• A Crémant de Loire, a Vouvray, and a Rosé D’anjou – I’m all set for the summer #Winophiles | Chinese Food and Wine Pairings
• Wine Thirsty? That’s No Problem in France’s Loire Valley | L’Occasion