When Philippe Rolet, Estate Manager at Bodegas CARO, is in the room, people listen. That’s exactly what happened a few evenings ago, although the room was my back porch and the people in attendance were on my computer monitor. Our group of wine media, journalists and sommeliers had been invited to engage in this virtual experience to discover the story of Bodegas CARO, a magnificent winery in the heart of Mendoza, and taste three very special wines sent as samples.
We were in good hands. Philippe Rolet, originally from the Jura in France, was previously CEO of Bodegas Argento S.A., having begun his career at Domaine William Fevre. He subsequently joined the Alta Vista Group in Mendoza where he was CEO and President. Only 46 years old, Rolet holds a French Management degree and is currently at the helm of the French Honorary Consulate in Mendoza. He assumed his position at Bodegas CARO in 2019.
Bodegas CARO
Bodegas CARO has been a partnership between Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and the Catena family since 1999. The goal at Bodegas CARO is to produce a distinctive range of wines that are a blend of the Argentine and French cultures. Blended are the two signature varieties (Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon) of both producers as well as the winemaking expertise and knowledge of both families. (In fact, the name CARO signifies Catena “CA” and Rothschild “RO”.)
The Catena family has been producing wine for four generations and their knowledge of the high-altitude terroir of the Mendoza region and ability to find the best vineyards is vast. Likewise, those at Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) share their well-honed skills in growing, vinifying and ageing premium Cabernet Sauvignon along with mastering the process of blending different varieties. The end result is a wine “that is greater than the sum of its parts.”
Photo Credit: Taub Family Selections
Bodegas CARO’s first vintage was in 2000 and by 2003, AMANCAYA was released. Both wines are based on a blend of Malbec and Cabernet that offer “a harmonious balance between Argentinian identity and Bordeaux style.” In 2010, as an homage to Malbec, Argentina’s flagship variety, ARUMA was released.
Vineyards of Bodegas CARO
The wines of Bodegas CARO are “from the best vineyards selected as the most representative of the great terroirs of Mendoza and known for the high-quality Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.”
The regions of Luján de Cuyo and Maipú are known as the “First Zone” because it was the first place where Malbec was planted in Mendoza. The wines from this zone are known to be among the best in the country. The altitude ranges from 800 to 950 metres and the average temperature range is 23ºC (max)/ 8ºC (min).
Photo Credit: Taub Family Selections
In the Uco Valley, Tunuyán, Tupungato and San Carlos are up-and-coming wine regions located one hour south of Mendoza. The impressive landscape boasts glaciers and year-round snow overlooking the adjacent river and vineyards. The altitude range is 1000 to 1600 metres and the average temperature range is 22ºC (max)/ 7ºC (min).
Specifically, Cabernet Sauvignon is cultivated in a 20-year old vineyard in Agrelo, a region located at 3117 feet in elevation and from 30-year old vines in El Cepillo la Consulta at an elevation of 3772 feet. Malbec is grown in a 12-year old vineyard in Tupungato at 4593 feet in elevation and within a 53-year old vineyard in Vistalba at 3609 feet elevation.
During the growing season, experts led by Philippe Rolet pay close attention to vineyard techniques, irrigation management and bud thinning. As a result, vines offer low yields “in balance with the canopy, good ventilation and illumination.”
The Wines of Bodegas CARO
Our first taste was of ARUMA 2018 ($15), 100% Malbec from a variety of the best terroirs in Mendoza. Philippe explained that ARUMA was not aged in oak in order to maintain its authentic fruit-forward flavors. So fresh and delicious, this wine offered aromas and flavors of spice, red fruit, raspberries and balsamic with the slightest hint of minerality framed with food friendly acidity and soft tannins. Everyone agreed that this will is the perfect wine to pair with juicy, grilled burgers topped with blue cheese. The name ARUMA means “night” in the language of the Quechua, the native Indian population of Mendoza, and suggests the dark nights in the Andes and its pure mountain air.
AMANCAYA 2017 ($20), named after the flower found in the higher altitudes of the Andes in Mendoza, oozed finesse and elegance with each sip. Bursting with fruit notes, thanks to the higher percentage of Malbec and shorter ageing time, I discovered notes of mocha, baking spice such as cinnamon and cloves, red berries, dark cherries, figs and herbs. Lifted with vibrant acidity and firm tannins this juicy and complex wine was aged for 12 months, half in French oak and half in concrete vats. Open a bottle and pair with grilled goat or lamb chops with herbs…
Exuding just as much Argentine identity as the Bordeaux style, CARO ($65) is sophisticated and complex, seductive and refined. This “big brother to AMANCAYA,” as Philippe remarked, “is special because it’s not produced every year – only when the vintage allows. If you open CARO one hour before drinking, your patience will be rewarded.” A lush blend of Malbec and Cabernet, I found notes of violets, raspberries, cloves and dark chocolate on both nose and palate. Balanced with vibrant acidity and sturdy tannins, the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak. Practice patience and enjoy a few glasses of this exceptional wine with a sizzling rib eye steak.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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Carolyn Kerouac
Cindy Rynning