California Zinfandel Legends: The Producers, The Vineyards, The Wines

July is National Grilling Month, but with Father’s Day around the corner and summer in full swing, I’m ready to do some barbecuing now! (I bet you are too.) Just recently, I was sent as samples, four bottles of Zinfandel from grapes cultivated in classic vineyards and produced by legendary wineries in California. The distinctive Zinfandels I tasted reflected the nuances and storied history of each vineyard and producer.

So what are we waiting for? It’s time to start the grill, don that chef’s apron and pour a glass of incredible examples of celebrated Zinfandel.

Berryessa Gap Vineyards

The history of Berryessa Gap Vineyards is compelling. Dan Martinez, Sr., father of the owners of the winery, was a first-generation farmer of Spanish immigrants. He established a successful orchard business in Winters, California, then partnered with Ernest Pininou, winemaker and wine historian in 1969. Together they founded a rootstock nursery that became highly regarded in Napa, Sonoma and throughout California. From these roots, Berryessa Gap Winery, a 60 acre estate ranch in Winters, has grown and thrived.

The Coble Ranch vineyard in Yolo County flanks the California Coastal Range next to Napa and Solano counties. The terroir and hot, dry climate help produce premium red and white wines including Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Barbera, Malbec, Durif, Albarino, Verdejo and Sauvignon Blanc.  The eastern facing slopes boast well-draining soils and are near the gap that offers cool breezes to the warm climate.

Silky and soft, 2017 Berryessa Gap Zinfandel, Coble Vineyard, Yolo County ($22) offered lush aromas and flavors. On the nose, I discovered dark plums, dark cherries, dried cranberries, cloves and spice. The palate burst with notes of ripe red fruit, wild berries, a hint of cinnamon and cedar. Fine tannins and moderate acidity framed this balanced wine that will pair beautifully with a charcuterie and cheese plate or barbecued shrimp.

Robert Biale Vineyards     

Founders Bob Biale and Dave Pramuk stated, “From our beginnings dedicated to advancing Zinfandel, we have always considered ourselves part farmers, part winemakers, part historic preservation society.” Bob Biale’s wine journey began with that of his grandfather, Pietro Biale, who planted Zinfandel vines in 1937. Only four years after the repeal of Prohibition and at the end of the Great Depression, this true son of Italy nurtured these vines and produce on the valley floor of his new ranch in Napa Valley. After Pietro’s untimely death, his son and Bob’s father, 13-year-old Aldo, assumed a role in grape growing and winemaking. Ever his father’s son, Aldo’s philosophy was to make wine and sell it, although this endeavor had to be clandestine due to strict governmental rules and regulations. Cue the “Black Chicken Story!” In the past, phone calls were made on “party lines” and anyone could listen to a conversation. In order to sell wines without stating the word, Aldo’s code was “Black Chicken.” Someone asked him to deliver a “Black Chicken?” They received a jug of Zinfandel!

The Old Kraft Vineyard is located in the St. Helena Appellation. Franz Kraft was a well-known winemaker around 1860 in the early days of St. Helena. His winery is now a cellar for Spottswoode Winery and most of the original vineyards have been replaced, except for an old parcel that’s part of the Hart family estate. With the recommendation of vineyard consultant Bill Pease, the Harts brought Bob Biale to assist with the “revitalization of this rare swath of winemaking history.” Bill and Margie Hart agreed to sell the fruit to Biale “with the hope of one day being able to vinify and vineyard-designate this historic wine.” Beginning in 2002, steps were taken to revive the vineyard. By 2006, the wine was “worthy as a special bottling among the series of Biale Zinfandels.”

I could taste the magic and history of the vineyard with each sip of the superb 2018 Robert Biale Zinfandel, Old Kraft Vineyard, St. Helena, Napa Valley ($55). On the nose and palate, elegance reigned with notes of black tea, sage, pear, ripe black cherries, a touch of chocolate, wood and spice. Delicious to drink on its own or with that juicy burger sizzling on the grill, this wine is an impressive choice.

Armida Winery

This year the Cousins and Foley families and their team celebrate 25 years of winemaking in the Dry Creek and Russian River Valleys. Their small lot vineyard designated wines include Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Gap’s Crown Vineyard (Gap’s Crown). Chardonnay from Durell Vineyard (Sonoma Coast), Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from Stuhlmuller Vineyard (Alexander Valley), Pinot Noir and Zinfandel from Parmelee-Hill Vineyard (Sonoma Coast), Zinfandel from Maple Vineyards (Dry Creek Valley), Zinfandel from Gold Mine Ranch (Dry Creek Valley), Zinfandel from Italo’s Vineyard (Alexander Valley), Pinot Noir from Castelli-Knight Vineyard (Russian River Valley), Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Mosque from family owned Redwood Ranch and their estate vineyard field blend Il Campo, a unique combination of Zinfandel, Petite Syrah, Alicante, and Carignan.

The Zinfandel cultivated in the Maple Vineyards, located on the high bench-land in the heart of Dry Creek Valley, is the oldest block, planted in 1910 when the rich history and classic traditions of the region were established. In fact, the vineyards outlasted Prohibition despite the fact that 75% of vines in Sonoma County were removed during that time. David Rafanelli, vineyard owner, maintains the traditions of the area through his hands-on approach to farming techniques. Dry farming, whereby older vines aren’t irrigated, results in a high level of stress on the vines that ultimately produce smaller berries with lush flavors.

A blend of 2% Zinfandel and 8% Petite Sirah, 2017 Armida Zinfandel, Maple Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($44) was a moderate to full bodied example of brilliant structure and texture. Notes of bramble, leather, violets, black cherries, cassis and pepper were elegant and seductive. Balanced with just-right acidity and moderate tannins, this savory, spicy Zinfandel will elevate any barbecue, especially if it includes your preferred cut of steak.

Pedroncelli Winery

2017 marked the 90^th anniversary of the inception of Pedroncelli Winery and Vineyards, located in Dry Creek Valley in Geyserville, California. One of the first wineries in Sonoma County, Pedroncelli was founded by Giovanni and Julia Pedroncelli in 1927. Ninety acres of land were purchased for $11,000; on the property there was a home, twenty-five acres of vineyards, and a winery, firmly shuttered thanks to Prohibition. Times have changed, but some things remain the same, such as continued ownership by the Pedroncelli family who produce outstanding wines. More than two-thirds of the wines produced are red, with Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel comprising nearly 50% of estate vineyards.

The Bushnell Vineyard is found on the eastern hillsides of Dry Creek Valley and has been closely related to the family for more than 50 years. Pedroncelli Winery’s founder, John Sr., purchased the vineyard in 1943 when it was planted to Zinfandel, Carignane and Petite Sirah. It was then sold to his son-in-law, Al Pedroni, in the 1950s after which his daughter, Carol Bushnell, became the owner and now farms the vineyard. Zinfandel and Petite Sirah are cultivated on the 15-acre site.

2017 Pedroncelli Zinfandel, Bushnell Vineyard, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County ($26) exuded ripe aromas and flavors of blackberry, boysenberry, plum pudding, earth, dark chocolate and dark fruit. Spice filled with a thread of minerality, this complex, full-bodied Zinfandel offered food friendly acidity, firm tannins and a lingering, satisfying finish.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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