The Old World Style of Malbec from Cahors

Malbec is from Argentina, isn’t it? Most definitely! We’re able to discover beautiful expressions of terroir from a lovely Malbec cultivated in this South American country. In fact, plantings are so numerous and the export market is so vigorous, it’s understandable that many would think that Malbec, is only from Argentina. However, Malbec originated near Cahors AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) in southwest France where it was and is still known as Côt, Côt Noir or Auxerrois. Vines were brought to Argentina in the “New World” (located anywhere other than the traditional wine regions of Europe, known as the “Old World”) from Bordeaux in the mid-nineteenth century.

 

The word “Auxerrois” was referenced in the 16^th century by University Professor François Roaldès who explained that the variety had been cultivated in the Cahors area for at least 600 years in; vines were brought by the Romans. Through the years, from the Middle Ages to the late 19^th century, winemaking thrived and wines from Cahors were sold and shipped to England and Russia. However, vines in the region, like so many in Europe, were affected by the phylloxera epidemic in 1883-1885 and needed replanting. Cahors suffered from frost in February 1956; the vast majority of vineyards were destroyed and again, needed to be replanted.

Now, Malbec is more dominant that it ever was and in 1971, the region received AOC status. Currently there are around 4200 hectares (10,000 acres) of vineyards planted west of the town of Cahors in the valley of the Lot River; plantings are of least 4000 vines per hectare. Organic farming accounts for about 17% of the total (the average in France is less than 10%) and 80% of the wines are produced by independent winemakers; 20% are from cooperatives. The most important areas in Cahors AOC are Mercuès, Parnac, Luzech, Prayssac, Grézels, Puy-l’Éveque and Vire sur Lot.

Rules regarding Cahors AOC state that only red wines may use this designation on the label. Malbec, the predominant variety in the area must comprise a minimum of 70% of the wine and may be supplemented up to 30% by Merlot and Tannat. (Although some white and rosé wines are produced in Cahors, their designation is Vins de Pays du Lot.)

 

The majority of vineyards are found on gravel terraces formed by the river Lot. Since the lowest terraces are too close to the river and thus, difficult for viticulture, vineyards are located on the second, third and fourth terraces.

Vineyards in Cahors are found within a triangle of the Atlantic Ocean, the Pyrenees mountains and the Mediterranean Sea. The nearby Massif Central may cause debilitating frost in the winter and the region’s climate of hot summers and wet winters is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean as well as the Mediterranean Sea. The influence of waters from the river Lot cools the nights and winds from the south help chase the clouds to reveal abundant sunshine.

What is an “Old World style of wine?” Geographic differences aside, an “Old World” style of wine is unlike that of the “New World.” Often, we’ll taste a wine from Europe that has as its backstory traditional winemaking method or multiple generations of winemakers. Likewise, a wine from the United States or Australia may reflect modern techniques, aggressive marketing strategies or its ownership by a large corporation. But how do the wines taste? I’ve found that many wines from the “Old World” tend to be more rustic and complex with rich notes of earth, florals, herbs and minerality. “New World” wines are often quite ripe and more fruit forward with higher alcohol and body. But you may disagree…

In what way do the Malbec wines from Cahors exude an “Old World” style? The answer hinges upon terroir and winemaking style, of course. In general, though, wines from Cahors are very dark in color, more rustic in flavor and highly tannic in structure than its lush, often fruit-forward counterparts across the ocean.

Sent as samples were three wines from Cahors that, in my opinion, represent the distinctive style of the region.

If the winegrower’s motto is “free to learn, free from the land, free to create, free to be oneself,” then Château de Gaudou Le Sang de ma Terre 2018 ($21) of 100% Malbec reflects just that. Fabrice Dorou, winemaker, is a 7^th generation family member who has been working the Gaudou vineyard for almost 20 years. Currently, the property is over 70 hectares located mostly on third terraces but also on the limestone plateau of Cahors AOC. Malbec from 45-year-old vines were mechanically harvested with an integrated sorting table. Natural yeasts were used and sulphur free fermentation occurred in concrete tanks with three weeks of maceration. Finally, the wine was aged in egg-shaped vats of “sandstone” ceramics in order to maintain a consistent flow of movement between the wine and natural gas.

Just lovely was Château de Gaudou Le Sang de ma Terre 2018 that exuded aromas of black cherries, mint, crushed blueberries, vanilla and a dash of black pepper. The flavorful palate was dominated by dark red fruits, dried prunes, spice and herbs and framed with medium acidity and strong tannic structure leading to a lasting, satisfying finish.

The aromas of Château LaMartine Cahors Cuvée Particulière 2016 ($25) were an enticing entry to a fascinating wine of 90% Malbec and 10% Tannat. These varieties were from old vines, 40 to 60 years, grown on clay-limestone soil and clay-siliceous terroir on the second and third terrace of Lot Valley. Winemaking was traditional with fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 30 days and a punch down of the cap. Ageing was carried out in cement tanks until the following spring at which time portions of the wine were aged for different amounts of time in oak barrels for up to 12-14 months.

On the nose of Château LaMartine Cahors Cuvée Particulière 2016, I discovered mesmerizing notes of earth, dark red fruit and smoke. After opening for 30 minutes, elements of red fruit, chocolate, plums, anise and minerality were framed with moderate acidity and integrated tannins. Just delicious, this soft yet complex wine was a luscious accompaniment to a hearty venison stew one chilly night.

Of 90% Malbec and 10% Merlot was Château de Cedre Extra Libre 2018 ($15). Varieties were cultivated on two types of soil that offered specific characteristics to the palate profile. The stony clay and limestone soil contributed to the wine’s moderate tannic structure whereas the soils of clay, sand and pebbles resulted in the wine’s concentrated, powerful profile. After harvesting, destemming, crush and punch down, malolactic fermentation ensued in concrete tanks. Then, the wine was aged in oak barrels for 12 months. No sulfites were added during the winemaking process.

Fresh aromas of menthol, herbs, dark fruit and vanilla wafted from the glass of Château de Cedre Extra Libre 2018. Soft and round with a hint of oak notes of red fruit, purple plums and ripe raspberries were lifted with bright acidity and firm, integrated tannic structure. This beautifully balanced wine from Cahors was a gem with its round mouthfeel and luscious finish.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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Discover the wines of Cahors AOC in the following articles written by my French #winophiles colleagues.  

Jane from Always Ravenous explores the “Flavors of Fall Paired with Cahors Malbec”

Cathie of Side Hustle Wino looks at “Cahors  – The Birthplace of Malbec”

Jill from L’Occasion shares “Cahors, a French Classic”

Camilla of Culinary Adventures with Camilla will be posting “Château du Cèdre Extra Libre 2018 Malbec + Cider-Braised Chicken Thighs”

Wendy Klik of A Day in the Life on the Farm samples “A Trio of Cahors Wine and the Pairings Served”

Jeff of FoodWineClick! gives us “The Malbec You Never Knew: Cahors”

Linda of My Full Wine Glass shares “Newbies to Old-World Malbec Discover Cahors”

Deanna of Asian Test Kitchen give us “French Malbecs Meet Chinese Duck”

Nicole Ruiz Hudson will be “Bringing Home Cahors with Clos D’Audhuy” on Somm’s Table.